Vogue Editorial Values and the Global Geography of Fashion Notes

Vogue's Core Editorial Values

• Vogue functions as a distinct brand with its own identity, voice, and mission, which differentiates it from other publications.

• The brand is defined by three core editoral values:

  • Authority: Maintaining a leadership position and expert voice in the fashion industry.

  • Innovation: Pushing boundaries in fashion media and presentation.

  • Visual Storytelling: Using high-quality imagery to convey complex narratives and themes.

• Global editions of Vogue (such as Vogue Turkey or Vogue Brazil) must adhere to these core values while simultaneously adapting to the specific local cultural values of their respective regions.

• Recent global launches discussed include:

  • Vogue Adria

  • Vogue Philippines

The Historical Relationship Between Fashion and Place

• The meanings associated with a specific place and the meanings associated with fashion are mutually reinforcing within the pages of the fashion press.

• Historically, the center for fashion presentation was concentrated in Paris, which was considered the global fashion capital.

• Modern Shift: Fashion has transitioned from being a centralized, elite, and purely artistic entity to being increasingly dispersed, decentralized, and global.

• Haute Couture (High Fashion/High Dressmaking):

  • Paris was the birthplace of haute couture.

  • Definition: Custom-made, made-to-measure clothing designed for one specific individual's body.

  • Contrasts with "ready-to-wear" garments that are purchased in standardized sizes "off the rack."

  • Regulations: There are strict rules regarding who can be designated a "couturier," including requirements for significant amounts of manual handwork (hand sewing) and specific standards for the operations of the atelier (workshop).

• The Symbolic Role of the City in Early Fashion Media:

  • Paris ($1920s$): Covers often depicted models in historic locations like the Place London (noted as a square with luxury and fashionable shops). The historicism and artistry of the square reinforced the attire as elite, artistic, and authoritative.

  • New York ($1920s$): Represented a shift toward modernity and technology. The construction of skyscrapers symbolized a fast-paced, modern lifestyle. This period saw the rise of the ready-to-wear industry, which allowed women to be professional and mobile.

  • Practical Fashion: Clothing in the $1920s$ became easier to wear, shorter in length, and omitted the use of corsets.

  • The Independent Woman ($1930s$): Advertisements began showing models walking alone on city streets, symbolizing power, independence, and the possibility of professional employment.

Global Fashion Cultures and Regional Dress Codes

• Fashion choices are frequently dictated by environmental and social factors including climate, moral codes, and belief systems.

• Turkey and Istanbul:

  • Istanbul is a cosmopolitan, global hub where fashion for youth often involves "Nike Tech," "Golden Goose" sneakers, leggings, and hoodies.

  • There is a social pressure toward "luxury signaling," where individuals may wear expensive designer bags even with casual attire like leggings and hoodies to demonstrate wealth.

  • Rural Turkey: Differing dress codes involve older women wearing floral skirts, floral bandanas, and "jelly sandals."

  • Coastal areas (e.g., Izmir, Cozhir, Mina): Dominated by fast fashion brands like Bershka, Stradivarius, and Pull & Bear. Typical outfits include jean shorts and very small tube tops.

  • Sustainability: An example was shared of a grandmother in a cactus forest making dog beds and clothing from discarded materials and scrap clothes provided by neighbors.

  • Market Constraints: Despite many global brands being manufactured in Turkey, specific products may be restricted due to religious modesty standards or limited creative freedom in shipping.

• London, England:

  • Features a significant rise in streetwear. Trends include "track bottoms," matching sets, and embroidered jeans among teenagers.

• Colombia:

  • Characterized by long, flowy skirts, bright colors, tropical/rainforest prints, animal prints, white shirts, embroidery, and heavy jewelry.

• New Zealand:

  • Men typically wear collared plaid shirts with "jorts" (denim shorts) that extend below the knees, paired with Birkenstocks.

  • Women often wear baggy jeans or denim skirts with black tops.

• Brazil (Sao Paulo):

  • A shift toward multicultural mixing and experimentation. Trends include baggy jeans, graphic t-shirts for parties, and colorful dresses (including those for "quinceaneras").

• United States Regional Differences:

  • Nashville, Tennessee: Described as very basic, often consisting of a T-shirt and a top.

  • Miami, Florida / Florida Coast: Influenced by TikTok trends and "SEC school" culture (e.g., Lululemon and oversized sweatshirts).

  • LA versus Paris: LA fashion often follows the "clean girl" aesthetic and specific new trends, whereas Paris offers more "chic" sensibilities and perceived creative freedom.

  • Indiana (Midwest): Predominantly corporate and serious (doctors and lawyers), with little emphasis on self-expression in dress.

• Ireland:

  • Rural areas often lean toward "sporty" or functional clothing (jeans and T-shirts) due to limited access to major metropolitan retail shops.

Questions & Discussion

• Question: What are the fashion cultures you associate with where you are from?

  • Response (Turkey/London): The student noted the dominance of streetwear in London and the contrast in Turkey between the "cute" look of high-waisted shorts for girls and the floral jumpers worn by grandmas.

  • Response (Colombia): The student described the use of tropical prints and heavy embroidery as a staple of regional style.

  • Response (New Zealand): The student provided a specific breakdown of the "jorts" and Birkenstocks trend for men versus baggy denim for women.

  • Response (Brazil): The student observed that while people used to dress the same $3$ years ago, there is now a mix of styles like graphic tees and hip-hop influenced dresses.

  • Response (Istanbul): The student discussed the lack of experimentation in Istanbul compared to New York, noting that one might be judged for wearing a "classy sweater" at a mall.

  • Response (Midwest/Indiana): The student explained that their simple outfit would be considered "crazy" or "outside the box" in their home state because the environment is very corporate.

  • Response (Izmir/Sustainable Fashion): A student discussed their grandmother who lives in a cactus forest and repurposes fast fashion "tents" and scraps into farm equipment and dog beds.

• Question: Does the location affect how you decide to present yourself?

  • Discussion: Several students agreed that traveling to New York presented an opportunity for experimentation with identity and fashion that was not possible in their home regions due to social judgment or lack of variety in stores.

• Discussion on Climate: A student noted that in rural Turkey, temperatures can reach $44$ degrees Celsius ($200$ degrees Fahrenheit was mentioned colloquially as a high extreme), making certain city fashions physically impossible to wear.