Lecture 8 - Textiles

Introduction & Core Definition

  • Textiles = fibrous materials that can be spun or felted into yarn, then knitted, looped or woven into fabric.

  • Applications span carpets, upholstery, curtains, blinds, screens, wall panels, underlays, padding & canopies.

  • Origins: appear in Middle-East in the late Stone/​Bronze Age; evidence of continual use ever since.

Historical Timeline & Cultural Context

  • \text{c.\,4000\,BC} – First evidence of weaving & spinning (linen/wool) in Roran.

  • \text{c.\,2700\,BC} (approx.) – Silk thread discovered in China; later drives the Silk Road trade network.

  • Victorian Era (1830\text{s}–1900\text{s})

    • Characterised by opulent wallpapers, richly coloured fabrics, heavy drapery.

    • Counter-movement: British Arts & Crafts led by William Morris (quote: “Have nothing in your houses that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful”).

Fibre Types

Natural Fibres

  • Plant-based (cellulose or lignin) – sustainable, rising interest as lignin gains attention in the building industry.

    • Agave (cactus), Abaca (leaf), Pina (pineapple leaf), Kapok (tree pod; stuffing), Cotton, Jute, Hemp, Coir (coconut husk), Seagrass.

  • Animal-based (protein)

    • Wool, Mohair (Angora goat), Alpaca, Cashmere (Cashmere goat), Camel, Llama, Vicuña (W. S. American camelid).

Man-Made (Synthetic)

  • Sourced from petro-chemicals; commercialised 1930\text{s}–1970\text{s}.

  • Examples: Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Polypropylene (PP), PTFE (drink-bottle plastic), PVC, Rayon/Viscose (regenerated cellulose).

Carpets

Woven Carpets

  • Pile woven into backing cloth.

  • Types:

    • Axminster (traditional);

    • Wilton (loop or cut-pile variants).

  • Widths: 90\,\text{cm} body carpet strips or broad-loom 366\,\text{cm}.

  • Fibre content: mainly wool or wool/nylon blends.

  • NZ is a major global supplier of carpet-grade wool (uses dag/short clips).

  • Pros: durability, design clarity; Cons: high cost, limited widths.

Tufted Carpets

  • Yarn punched through backing, locked with latex/rubber secondary backing.

  • Enables CNC-driven patterns/prints.

  • Predominantly polypropylene & other synthetics.

  • Issue: zippering – a row can unravel if a tuft loosens.

Carpet Tiles

  • Modules ~500\,\text{mm} square bonded to rubber/felt backing.

  • Installed by direct-stick (glued) rather than loose-lay.

  • Pros: easy replacement, reduced waste; Cons: visible joints, edge wear, higher cost vs broad-loom.

Matted/Needle-Punched Carpets

  • Classic doormats, entrance rugs, car mats.

  • Fibres fused into backing → difficult recycling.

  • Spray-clean friendly, but minimal design flexibility.

Flocked Carpets (e.g. Flotex)

  • Fibres electro-statically planted into adhesive “goop”.

  • European manufacture; high cost but exceptional pattern clarity, hygiene & acoustic qualities.

Custom Hand-Tufted Rugs

  • Crafted with manual tufting gun (e.g. Sile or Dilana NZ).

  • Any artwork / irregular shape possible.

  • Price example: Gavin Chillcott rug ≈ \$12{,}000 (+GST) for modest size.

Natural-Fibre Floor Rugs

  • Available at mainstream retailers (Cottons Store, Freedom, The Warehouse).

  • Typical fibres: cotton, coir, jute, seagrass, hemp.

Underlays (Carpet Cushion)

  • Functions: foot-feel “spring”, impact sound reduction, thermal insulation, prolong carpet life (captures grit beneath pile).

  • Materials:

    1. Rubber waffle – natural sponge, breathable; domestic.

    2. Re-bonded foam/rubber crumb – dense, durable, popular in modern domestic & light commercial.

    3. Historic: Jute felt (rare today).

Carpet Installation Methods

  1. Tack-less / Smooth-edge

    • Perimeter timber battens with angled spikes; carpet stretched over underlay.

  2. Direct-stick

    • Floor levelled, tacky adhesive secures broad-loom or tiles; common commercial solution.

  3. Double-stick

    • Underlay glued to floor, carpet glued to underlay; seldom used now.

Performance Grading (NZ)

  • Wools of NZ star-rating: light, medium, heavy, extra heavy duty.

  • Always cross-check manufacturer data before specification.

Window Treatments

Functions

  • Light control, privacy, glare reduction, insulation, acoustic damping, aesthetics.

Curtains

  • Gathered & stored at sides; hung on rails/poles or concealed pockets.

  • Headings (formed by sewn-in tape): pencil pleat, pinch pleat, box pleat, goblet, wave, etc.

  • Details/Accessories: wands, tie-backs, braids, frills, recessed pelmets.

  • Linings: separate fabric vs thermal rubber-backed; research shows double-layer loose lining can match thermal performance while enabling laundering.

Roller Blinds

  • Chain, spring, motorised, or fully automated.

  • Safety: dangling cords pose child-strangulation risk; regulations require secure cleats or cordless systems.

Roman Blinds

  • Fabric panels fold into horizontal pleats via cords & battens (wood dowel, sail battens, etc.).

  • Absence of battens ⇒ uneven stack.

Other Blind Types

  • Vertical fabric slats (classic 1980s offices).

  • Austrian/Festoon – gathered, scalloped swag folds.

  • Venetian – horizontal slats (timber, aluminium, PVC).

Screens & Space-Modifying Textiles

  • Categories: Space Dividers (partial visual block) vs Space Makers (create new volumetric condition).

  • Can be off-the-shelf tri-fold screens or bespoke stretched-fabric installations (e.g. tensile membranes, acoustical baffles).

  • Custom work requires detailed fabrication notes (panel sizes, edge finishes, attachment hardware).

Upholstery

  • Critical in commercial & residential seating, headboards, wall panels.

  • Key parameter: Martindale rub test (# rubs until wear). Higher count = greater abrasion resistance.

  • NZ recognised for wool upholstery fabrics (e.g. Maxwell Rogers).

  • Construction workflow:

    1. Builder/cabinet-maker manufactures frame or box-seat.

    2. Upholsterer fabricates foam, webbing, springs, fabric covers.

    3. On-site fitting (often spray glue for compound forms; alternative mechanical tie-backs for VOC-free approach).

  • Premium examples: Egg Chair (complex moulded foam + fabric/leather wrap).

Padded Walls & Acoustic Panels

  • Common in hospitality, cinemas, nightclubs, call-centres.

  • Also thresholds & canopies (shop-front signage awnings) use tensioned fabric; must consider wind, fire rating, maintenance.

Regulatory & Fire Considerations

  • NZBC references for carpets, drapes, suspended flexible fabrics.

  • Suspended canopies can disrupt sprinkler throw pattern → sprinklers often need lowering below fabric.

Environmental & Health Issues

  • Adhesives/foam can emit VOCs; specify low-VOC products & allow off-gassing period.

  • Carpets trap dust mites & pollutants; for allergy-sensitive clients favour hard floors + washable rugs.

  • End-of-life: synthetics linked to landfill burden; consider take-back schemes, natural fibres, cradle-to-cradle certifications.

Specification Documentation

  • Spec Sheets: fibre content, repeat, width, Martindale, flame rating, colourway, manufacturer, intended use.

  • Drawings & Schedules: furniture plans, curtain/blind codes linked to elevations; include fixing heights, stack widths, recess dimensions.

  • Example couch spec: overall L×D×H, seat height, fabric 140\,\text{mm} repeat, 50\,\text{kg}\,\text{HR} foam grade, eight-way hand-tied springs, timber species.

  • Quilt/bedspread: panel dimensions, seam placement, quilting pattern, fill weight 200\,\text{gsm}.

Key Industry Suppliers (NZ/AU)

  • Carpets: Cavalier Bremworth, Godfrey Hirst, Feltex, Dilana, Bremworth Tiles.

  • Fabrics: Maxwell Rogers, James Dunlop, Warwick, Mokum, Textilia, Charles Parsons, Instyle.

  • Blinds & Hardware: Luxaflex, Silent Gliss, Windoware.

Ethical, Practical & Philosophical Implications

  • Alignment with William Morris’ maxim → select textiles that are useful & beautiful, avoid needless ornamentation.

  • Sustainable sourcing (natural fibres, reduced petro-chemical dependence, recyclability).

  • Inclusive design (cord safety, allergen reduction, acoustic comfort).

Connections to Prior / Broader Concepts

  • Lignin as emerging green material echoes bio-based resins in structural timber topics.

  • Textile fire ratings tie back to Building Code lecture on material group numbers.

  • Acoustical properties link to previous sound-control session (porous vs panel absorbers).

Numerical & Testing References

  • Carpet widths: 90\,\text{cm} strips vs 366\,\text{cm} broad-loom.

  • Carpet tile module: 500\,\text{mm}.

  • Historic timeline: 4000\,\text{BC},\;1830\text{s}–1900\text{s},\;1930\text{s}–1970\text{s}.

  • Rug cost example: 12{,}000\;\text{NZD}+GST.

  • Martindale ratings: Light domestic \approx10{,}000 rubs; Heavy commercial >40{,}000 rubs.