Exchanging pieces (not pawns) helps highlight weak enemy pawns, making them easier to attack and harder to defend.
If you cannot push pawns to promotion, determine why and work to remove that obstacle; this supports the plan to promote pawns.
If you can push passed pawns, do so.
Once a rook is pinned to a passed pawn, bring the king to assist the rook in eliminating the enemy rook blockading the pawn.
You can use your king on the opposite side of the board from your passed pawn. With the enemy rook pinned, the king can attack enemy pawns freely.
Do not complicate a won endgame by allowing blowback.
Pieces must supplement each other, not just battery. A bishop should not be in front of the queen, nor a rook in front of another rook.
Keep pieces close together for collective aiming or protection.
With few pieces left, attack in one direction, as the endgame environment amplifies the effectiveness of this approach.
In an endgame, the value of bishops and pawns increases.
A centralized bishop is powerful because it attacks both flanks.
Placing two squares between a bishop and knight can cut off the knight.
In the middlegame, one piece is worth three pawns; the opposite is true in endgames.
Bishops are generally stronger than knights, but this is especially true in endgames because:
Bishops have greater mobility.
Bishops significantly impact pawn-based plans.
The power gap between bishops and knights is significant; bishops facilitate winning.
Harmonious piece placement often decides the endgame.
A rook and two pawns are often worth more than a bishop and a knight in the endgame due to the increased value of pawns, while the opposite is true in the middlegame.
A bishop or knight plus two pawns is often worth more than a rook in the endgame for the same reason.
Bishops have a value similar to a rook in the endgame.
A bishop with two pawns against a rook has better winning chances than a knight with two pawns.
Bishops are often worth more than three pawns; knights rarely are. Bishops are often worth more than knights.
A rook and bishop are worth more than a rook and knight since they coordinate well (bishop covers diagonals, rook covers files), unlike knights and rooks.
A queen with a knight is worth more than a queen with a bishop because they are both tactical pieces and create harmonious combos.
You can exchange pawns to open lines for rooks, bishops, and queens, but if the exchange doesn't activate these pieces, avoid it.
An endgame without pawns is theoretically a draw.
If you cannot attack enemy pawns due to protection, weaken them first.
If you can block your opponent's backward pawn with your own, do so to create a fixed weakness.
Unneeded pawn advances are primary causes of endgame downfalls, as advanced pawns become targets and weaken the overall position.
In an endgame, planning is more important than calculation, so focus on realizing your plans.
Endgames are not drawn simply because players lack endgame knowledge, leading to mistakes; play to the end.
In an endgame, accept a draw if needed, and avoid risking blowback for an attack.
Strategic understanding is paramount in endgames.
Endgames do not require as much thought, and there is less need to worry about time trouble.
Key squares for the king in a king and pawn vs. king endgame (pawn not on the 5th rank yet) are the two squares in front, and one to the left and right (forming a "T").
King key squares are indispensable; if the king is on one, the pawn will promote.
In an endgame, determine the best placement for your pieces to realize your plan.
An endgame clearly exposes strategic motifs.
Improving endgame skills enhances general strategic understanding.
The king becomes an active piece, with the fighting value of a knight.
Kings should be in the center of the board.
Activate the king early in the endgame while keeping the enemy king out of the center. Control a file with a rook to prevent the enemy king from crossing or bring your rook to the 7th rank to trap and limit the king.
Rooks on the 7th rank can also attack enemy pawns.
A king works well with pawns, both yours and the enemy’s.
A king can aid in pawn promotion.
Bringing a king near enemy pawns attacks them and ties down defenders.
Create an umbrella of pieces to block checks for the king, allowing it to move closer to the center safely.
Ensure your king will not be a cause for complications before activating him.
Advanced pawns can be targets of attack.
Queens are not ideal in the center with many pieces left, as they can be targeted; centralize them when fewer pieces remain.
Queens attack in many directions, making them lethal endgame fighters. Create pawn weaknesses for the queen to attack.
Queens excel at attacking weak pawns, supporting passed pawn promotion, and attacking the enemy king, ideally simultaneously.
Queens are strong in open positions, so open lines for them.
Rooks thrive with open lines, so create some.
Rooks work well with pawns, both yours and the enemy’s; they go behind enemy passed pawns to hinder promotion or behind your passed pawns to boost them.
Bringing a rook behind an enemy isolated pawn paralyzes defending pieces, allowing you to attack elsewhere.
Bishops and rooks work well together; bishops need open diagonals, so open them. Remove pawns to create open lines or diagonals.
Place pawns on dark squares if you have a light-squared bishop, and vice versa, to maximize the bishop's diagonals.
Bishops should operate on both flanks to unleash their true power.
Bishops, like kings and rooks, work well with pawns, both yours and the enemy’s.
Types of passed pawns:
Separate Passed Pawns: these guys are the opposite of Connected Passed Pawns.
Connected Passed Pawns: these are the opposite to Separate Passed Pawns. It's basically two or more Pawns side by side.
Protected Passed Pawn: a Passed Pawn that is Protected by another Pawn, that is not Passed (if the defender Pawn was Passed, then the two pawns are Connected Passed Pawns)
Outside Passed Pawn: a Passed Pawn that is separate, but is on the side of the board opposite to the enemy King.
Pawn Majority: though more of a Pawn Structure, in this case, it is a Passed Pawn with a bunch of unpassed Buddies, not connected to any side (Center, Q-Side, K-Side) of the board by means of Pawns.
Advice for each type of Passed Pawn:
Seperate Passed Pawns:
push when possible, but they are rather weak, so be careful.
Connected Passed Pawns:
they protect each other (if you push one, the other protects it).
They also attack anything in front of them, blockading them becomes nearly useless.
They can bring you a new Queen, which is not uncommon with Connected Passed Pawns.
The best way for playing for a Win is by trying to make Connected Passed Pawns.
Lastly, these guys on the 6th Rank are worth more than a whole Rook!
General Advice
Utilize the Principle of the Least Active Piece: find the least active piece and improve its position.
Ask the Three Questions to find Tactics:
"Is the Opponent's King safe?" (Any Checkmate Threats in the Air? Any way to Check the King? Is the King ripped of shelter, with many lines and diagonals around him? Are there little/no Pieces defending or covering the King?)
"Is there anything off with the Enemy Pieces?" (Are the Enemy Pieces overloaded? Are they defending too many key matters at once? Are any of them insufficiently defended? Are any of them doing barely anything?)
"What are the resources available to you?" (The best approach to this question is by asking yourself "with my Pieces, what useful things can I do?" . Checkmates? Forks? Whatever it is, try and fantasize what the dream position for you would look like, or if you're like me, what a miserable position looks like for your Opponent. Simply fantasize, and try to make your fantasies come true. A similar approach to this is by asking "What Piece of my Opponent or even of my own is preventing me from reaching my Dream Position?" Then simply plan on how you will remove that Piece from the Board.)
Put Pressure On Pinned Pieces.
Attack Weak Pieces.
Opponent Response Checklist:
"Can my Opponent attack my King?"
"Is there anything wrong with my Pieces?"
"What are my Opponent's Resources?"
"What is my Opponent aiming for by playing this move?"
"What does my Opponent need? (This is different from 4. because this asks a universal question, in the sense your Opponent needs to fulfil whatever this need is, and this does not matter if your Opponent even realizes this need, you will need to stop them from fulfilling this need anyway).
This checklist emphasizes prophylaxis (prevention).
Using base principles will help you find the best move in any situation.
A weak Square becomes useless if you have no Pieces or Appropriate Pieces to occupy said Square.
A Weak Square in the Center is worth more than a Weak Square in the edge of the Board, and a Weak Square nearer towards the Enemy Base is more valuable compared to a Weak Square far away from the Enemy Base
Every move, ask yourself if there is a better move available based on the new change of the Position, or if you can just proceed with your Plan.
Don't worry too much on following Principles, but rather look for Moves that further your Plan, or moves that abide to Principles and further your Plan.
Don't be lazy with your thought process, and perform your mental checklist in every move you make.
Exploit Weak Squares before attacking Weak Pawns.
Unsorted Tips & Principles
Knights thrive when multiple attack targets exist, enabling tactics like double attacks. They are also strong when multiple weaknesses exist in the enemy camp, facilitating excellent placement.
Knights excel in the center.
Knights can restrict the enemy king's movement. A knight controlling the left and right squares, with a pawn covering the middle square, creates an impassable barrier.
Knights can only operate on one side of the board.
Knights cannot stop b, g, or h pawns.
Be cautious with pawn moves; avoid unnecessary or hasty attacks, as advanced pawns can become vulnerable.
Advanced pawns are effective for attacking, but weak for defending.
You can’t crush your Opponent in the majority of Endgames.
Consolidate your pawn structure before attacking.
If a pawn crosses into the opponent's half of the board, direct your attack on that side. (e.g., a pawn on the 5th rank attacks on the queenside, a pawn on the 7th rank attacks on the kingside).
Consolidate your position by limiting your opponent's counterplay, preferably with pawns, before attacking.
A Bishop is best suited to fight on a specific side of the Board based on how many squares it controls on said side.
Siegbert Tarrasche believed that one poorly placed piece makes your whole position bad.
Attack if the opponent's queen is not connected to the king.
If the fixed Pawns are on a White square, then keep your Black Bishop, and vice versa.
Avoid moving Pawns that restrict Black's counterplay.
If many of your Opponent's pieces are on one side of the board, then attack the other side of the board.
Your Play should be based on Black's missing Bishop, so if Black is missing their Light-Squared Bishop, fight on the Light-Squares. This approach is more effective if you have the Bishop Pair.
In Positional Play, always have your Pieces Protected. One way to do this is to avoid having a Linear Piece looking at one of your Pieces even if there is a Piece blocking the path of your Opponent's Piece from reaching your Piece. Such an example of this is Black's Rook aiming at your Rook. Another way to fulfil this is by having one of your Pieces protect another Piece (even if it isn't currently under danger).
Prior to attacking, make sure all your Pieces are either Connected, or Protected. After you have done this, you can go ahead and look for tactics. Try to make a small Problem for your Opponent, or a small Advantage for you, no matter how small. Slowly but surely, one small problem turns into two small problems, and then 2 small problems turns into 3 small problems