Notes on Shona Taine and Watchmaking

Watchmaking Stereotype

  • The prevalent watchmaking stereotype is a master craftsman at his workbench.
  • Wearing a white coat and a magnifying loupe.
  • Typically imagined as a man in late middle age.

Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI)

  • The world’s most prestigious assembly of skilled independent watchmakers.
  • Historically, consisted of 37 members, all male.
  • Average age was 59 until recently.

New Members of AHCI

  • On April 6, three new members were voted in: Anton Suhanov, Guo Ming, and Shona Taine.
  • Shona Taine is the youngest person ever admitted at 27.
  • She is also the first woman to be offered membership.

Shona Taine's Debut Watch: Khemea

  • The Khemea was not fully finished when it gained the academy's attention.
  • Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and Sylvain Pinaud visited Taine.
  • They were convinced she deserved a place on the list of candidates.
  • Candidates can progress to full membership.
  • Taine was initially shy about showing the prototype due to perceived mistakes.
  • The established watchmakers praised her innovative approach and passion.

David Candaux's Praise for Shona Taine

  • David Candaux proposed Taine for full membership.
  • He was captivated by her innovative approach and passion.
  • He noted her ability to merge tradition and innovation.
  • Her Khemea watch exemplifies her attention to detail.
  • Candaux also admires her constant desire to push the boundaries of watch design.

Inspiration and Education

  • Taine was inspired by Prague's astronomical clock during a childhood visit.
  • She grew up in Pontarlier, near the Swiss border.
  • At 15, she enrolled in watchmaking school in Morteau.
  • The course was a six-year program comprising of three separate diplomas.
  • Initially, there were 45 students, but only 15 completed the program.
  • She had considered studying philosophy and literature and wanted a practical profession.

Early Career and Independence

  • Taine worked in a service workshop, repairing Ebel chronograph watches.
  • She found the work repetitive and unfulfilling.
  • She wanted to learn and create many things, leading her to create her own watch.
  • She left her job and created her company the day before her 22nd birthday.

Seeking Knowledge and Creating Khemea

  • Taine realized she lacked considerable knowledge despite six years of study.
  • She sought out watchmakers to learn techniques and improve her skills.
  • She worked in Olivier Mory's atelier, a supplier of tourbillon movements.
  • She created her debut watch, the Khemea.
  • The Khemea features a modified tourbillon, moonphase display, calendar, and a 100-hour power reserve.
  • This watch impressed the AHCI members.
  • Fellow graduates of the watchmaking school initially alerted AHCI to her talents.

Khemea's Aesthetics and Reception

  • The Khemea combines traditional watch design with futuristic, biomorphic shapes.
  • Taine draws inspiration from nature, using floral and fluid shapes in the logo and movement components.
  • The watch has garnered an admiring audience, with several pieces sold before completion.

Independence and Support

  • Taine has rejected investor proposals to maintain her independence and grow at her own pace.
  • She self-financed through subcontracting work.
  • She received support and advice from her parents, partner, and friends.
  • They provided time, advice, support, and even lent her savings.

Balancing Business and Education

  • Taine balances business demands with teaching at her former watchmaking school.
  • She is in high demand from educational foundations across the industry.
  • Her profile inspires younger generations, particularly girls, to pursue watchmaking.

Gender and the Watch Industry

  • Taine understands the interest in her story but doesn't want to be defined by her gender.
  • She notes that while many women work in the watch industry, they are rarely entrepreneurial or lead companies.
  • There are signs of change, with watchmaking classes now having a fifty-fifty gender ratio, compared to only two girls in her class.