Notes on Shona Taine and Watchmaking
Watchmaking Stereotype
- The prevalent watchmaking stereotype is a master craftsman at his workbench.
- Wearing a white coat and a magnifying loupe.
- Typically imagined as a man in late middle age.
Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI)
- The world’s most prestigious assembly of skilled independent watchmakers.
- Historically, consisted of 37 members, all male.
- Average age was 59 until recently.
New Members of AHCI
- On April 6, three new members were voted in: Anton Suhanov, Guo Ming, and Shona Taine.
- Shona Taine is the youngest person ever admitted at 27.
- She is also the first woman to be offered membership.
Shona Taine's Debut Watch: Khemea
- The Khemea was not fully finished when it gained the academy's attention.
- Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and Sylvain Pinaud visited Taine.
- They were convinced she deserved a place on the list of candidates.
- Candidates can progress to full membership.
- Taine was initially shy about showing the prototype due to perceived mistakes.
- The established watchmakers praised her innovative approach and passion.
David Candaux's Praise for Shona Taine
- David Candaux proposed Taine for full membership.
- He was captivated by her innovative approach and passion.
- He noted her ability to merge tradition and innovation.
- Her Khemea watch exemplifies her attention to detail.
- Candaux also admires her constant desire to push the boundaries of watch design.
Inspiration and Education
- Taine was inspired by Prague's astronomical clock during a childhood visit.
- She grew up in Pontarlier, near the Swiss border.
- At 15, she enrolled in watchmaking school in Morteau.
- The course was a six-year program comprising of three separate diplomas.
- Initially, there were 45 students, but only 15 completed the program.
- She had considered studying philosophy and literature and wanted a practical profession.
Early Career and Independence
- Taine worked in a service workshop, repairing Ebel chronograph watches.
- She found the work repetitive and unfulfilling.
- She wanted to learn and create many things, leading her to create her own watch.
- She left her job and created her company the day before her 22nd birthday.
Seeking Knowledge and Creating Khemea
- Taine realized she lacked considerable knowledge despite six years of study.
- She sought out watchmakers to learn techniques and improve her skills.
- She worked in Olivier Mory's atelier, a supplier of tourbillon movements.
- She created her debut watch, the Khemea.
- The Khemea features a modified tourbillon, moonphase display, calendar, and a 100-hour power reserve.
- This watch impressed the AHCI members.
- Fellow graduates of the watchmaking school initially alerted AHCI to her talents.
Khemea's Aesthetics and Reception
- The Khemea combines traditional watch design with futuristic, biomorphic shapes.
- Taine draws inspiration from nature, using floral and fluid shapes in the logo and movement components.
- The watch has garnered an admiring audience, with several pieces sold before completion.
Independence and Support
- Taine has rejected investor proposals to maintain her independence and grow at her own pace.
- She self-financed through subcontracting work.
- She received support and advice from her parents, partner, and friends.
- They provided time, advice, support, and even lent her savings.
Balancing Business and Education
- Taine balances business demands with teaching at her former watchmaking school.
- She is in high demand from educational foundations across the industry.
- Her profile inspires younger generations, particularly girls, to pursue watchmaking.
Gender and the Watch Industry
- Taine understands the interest in her story but doesn't want to be defined by her gender.
- She notes that while many women work in the watch industry, they are rarely entrepreneurial or lead companies.
- There are signs of change, with watchmaking classes now having a fifty-fifty gender ratio, compared to only two girls in her class.