History of Fashion 9th Lesson

Lesson 9 discusses the impact of Cristobal Balenciaga on fashion in Europe and America during the 1950s.
Focus on the rise of Italian fashion.

Ceremony Dress: Crafted from rayon satin and silk mechanical lace, complemented with smooth velvet decoration and chenille embroidery, created in 1947.
Spring/Summer 1947: Introduced the 'barrel' line, which featured innovative silhouettes and shapes that were distinct from previous styles.
Cocoon Coat: Iconic autumn/winter 1950 piece worn by Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, photographed by Irving Penn for 'Vogue'.
Evening Cape and Gown: Double-balloon black taffeta evening cape and gown presented in A/W 1950. Associated imagery from 'Vogue' (Sept 1950) and 'Harper's Bazaar' (Nov 1950).
Cloak: Made of wool; photo taken by Irving Penn for 'Vogue' in Autumn 1950, housed in The Museum at FIT.
Semi Fitted Suit: Known as 'semi-ajusté', made of linen and featured in 'Vogue' on March 15, 1952.
Cocktail Dress: Painted and embroidered lace design from the Winter Collection of 1953, with a photo captured by Henry Clarke for 'Vogue'.
Cocktail Suit: Satin and lace cocktail suit also in the Winter Collection of 1953, with supplementary detail on another cocktail dress made of black lace photographed by Philippe Pottier in 1952.
Déshabillé: Worn by Mona von Bismarck in a photograph by Cecil Beaton from 1955.

Established Christian Dior New York Inc. in 1948.
Dior's collections from 1951 to 1956 included:
- 'Longue' (A/W 1951 – 52)
- 'Sinueuse' (S/S 1952)
- 'Profilée' (A/W 1952 – 53)
- 'Tulipe' (S/S 1953)
- 'Vivante' (A/W 1953 – 54)
- 'Muguet' (S/S 1954)
- 'H-line' (A/W 1954 – 55)
- 'A-line' (S/S 1955)
- 'Y-line' (A/W 1955 – 56)
- 'Flêche' (S/S 1956)
Renée Breton featured in a Dior dress from the 'H-Line' Collection, photographed by Mark Shaw in Fall/Winter 1954-1955.

Behind the Scenes at a Catwalk: Spring 1954 shoot by Mark Shaw, showcasing the 'Antonia' ballgown and other daywear.

Day Suit (1954): Notable pieces such as 'Aurore' satin dress photographed by John Rawlings for 'Vogue' in May 1951.

First Collection: Presented on February 2, 1952, with the iconic 'Bettina blouse' worn by Bettina Graziani.
Spring/Summer 1953: Feature dress designed using printed banded silk or taffeta.

1954 Iconography: Photo by Doisneau, with significant contributions to fashion including the creation of the famous 2.55 bag in February 1955.
Designs (1954-1960): Various designs documented including suits and evening wear worn by prominent figures like Jacqueline Kennedy and Ava Gardner.

Giovanni Battista Giorgini: Influential figure who created the first Italian fashion catwalk in Florence, February 12-14, 1951.
Emilio Pucci: Known for ski suits, elegant silk suits, and collections presented throughout the 1950s. His works included:
- 'Capri' trousers (1952)
- 'Siciliana' Collection (1955)
- 'Palio' Collection presented in London (1957).
Sorelle Fontana: Key designers of the era, creating iconic pieces worn by celebrities and seen in noted films.

Influence of Film Costume Design: Several iconic films of the 1950s (e.g., 'Roman Holiday', 'Gentlemen Prefer Blondes') showcased designs from notable fashion houses.
Celebrities and Fashion: Stars like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Marilyn Monroe prominently influenced trends and were often featured in prominent publications like 'Life Magazine'.

Fashion as Art: Connection between the fashion industry and cultural expressions seen in art movements like Abstract Expressionism.
Emerging Trends: Fashion began to reflect broader cultural shifts, influencing areas from everyday attire to haute couture.