The Gang

Gangs and Youth Cultures

Historical Context

  • 1850: Establishment of reformatories for children under 16 years of age involved in vandalism.

  • 1880: Implementation of the Education Act mandating school attendance for children until the age of 11.

    • Approximately 60% of children are expected to comply with this act.

    • Emergence of jobs for younger demographics not requiring qualifications.

    • Increase in disposable income for children, leading to a market response with new products, particularly magazines featuring sensational stories about gangs and youth groups.

Youth Gangs and Their Characteristics

  • Scuttlers:

    • Term originating from the word "scuttling," a Lancashire term referring to gang-related fights, particularly in Manchester during the 1890s.

    • Notable behaviors included organized fights and delinquent activities as a form of social validation among peers.

  • Gang Attire and Styles:

    • Scuttlers (Manchester):

    • Puncher’s cap, white neckerchief, waistcoat, slim-fit trousers slightly flared at the bottom, ankle boots with brass toe caps, and custom belts adorned with metal pins (images/stickers like snakes, stars, and sacred hearts).

    • Peaky Blinders (Birmingham):

    • Billycock hat or puncher’s cap, neckerchief, waistcoat, bell-bottomed trousers typical of naval uniforms, and studded ankle boots.

    • Hooligans:

    • Coined by English police in 1896 to refer to various gangs amid growing violence, origins of the term debated:

      • Possibly linked to Patrick Hooligan, who murdered a police officer.

      • Might derive from the American term "hoodlum" (mean thug).

      • Potentially adapted from the name of a notorious gang member, Edward Hooley.

    • Apache Gang (France):

    • Notable fashion includes Deffe cap, red scarf, black or navy jacket, striped shirt/sweater, Benard trousers, leather belts with fringes or scarves, bobeline ankle boots/yellow shoes with gold buttons, and rings for adornment, often featuring phrases like "Vive L’Anarchie" as popular tattoos.

Notable Gangs in the UK

  • Rude Boys & Skinheads (Late 60s):

    • Characterized by specific dress and lifestyle reflecting subcultural identity, with variations in their fashion corresponding to socio-political influences of the time.

  • Bootboys (1970):

    • Distinct, with particular fashion choices and behaviors diverging from preceding youth subcultures.

Regional Variants of Youth Style

  • Scousers (Liverpool):

    • Firm associated with Liverpool Football Club is called "Kopites" or "Red Army."

    • Notable bands and anthems connected through youth culture, including Joy Division and The Human League.

    • Characteristics: Snorkel parka, Polo shirt (Fred Perry), Adidas Samba, and wedge haircut.

  • Perry Boys (Manchester):

    • Associated with Manchester United; on the rise in youth fashion emphasizing brand-name sportswear like Adidas and specific jacket styles.

    • Key clothing items: cagoule jacket (Peter Storm), snorkel parka, Fred Perry, skinny jeans, and sneakers (predominantly Adidas Forest Hills).

  • Casuals (London):

    • Firm associated with West Ham United is known as ICF (Inter City Firm).

    • Popular brands included Sergio Tacchini, Ellesse, Fila, Pringle, Diadora, and Adidas, showcasing a shift towards brand-name sportswear with associated violence.

Cultural Implications of Fashion Choices

  • Fashion is not merely aesthetic but is tightly linked to identity, status, and often, gang affiliation.

  • Label significance is paramount; incorrect label use can lead to ridicule, establishing a rigid form of youth culture and peer enforcement.

  • Emerging trends characterized by escalating competition among fashion brands, leading younger fans of football to adopt more expensive and distinct styles.

Economic and Social Trends

  • 1981: John McEnroe defeats Björn Borg at Wimbledon, showcasing the cultural significance of sporting events as focal points for youth culture and style epitomizing brand affiliations.

  • Fashion underwent a transition during socio-economic changes influenced by government policies, leading youth groups to respond with an evolving style.

    • Define own styles and subcultures through fashion, with urban geographical areas affecting fashion trends, leading to distinctive identities (e.g., Scousers vs. London Casuals).

The Future of Cultural Trends

  • Speculated that youth engagement in sports and fashion may rejuvenate in upcoming European matches; influence should reflect in societal perceptions of negative stereotypes associated with football gangs.

  • The fusion of fashion and identity across youth cultures highlights ongoing dialogues and vulnerabilities within urban settings, with socio-economic factors contributing to self-expression through dress.