Makeup Artistry Notes

Color Theory

  • Hues/Pure Hues:
    • All colors on the color wheel.
    • Purest form of a color.
  • Primary Colors:
    • Yellow, red, and blue.
  • Secondary Colors:
    • Two equal parts of primary colors mixed together.
  • Tertiary Colors:
    • Result from mixing a primary color with a secondary color.
  • Complementary Colors:
    • Colors that accentuate each other.
    • Increase saturation and vibrancy when used together.
  • Saturation:
    • The intensity and purity of a color; how vibrant or dull the color appears.
  • Tint:
    • A pure color with white added.
  • Shade:
    • A pure color with black added.
  • Tone:
    • A pure color with gray added.
  • Warm Colors:
    • Yellows, oranges, and some reds.
  • Cool Colors:
    • Blues, some greens, and purples.
  • Neutral Colors:
    • Not on the color wheel.
    • Used for basic, natural makeup looks (e.g., bridal makeup).

Color Coordination in Makeup

  • Makeup appearance varies per person.
  • Coordinate hair and eye color with makeup colors.
  • Neutral colors generally look good on everyone.

Skin Tone

  • Match foundation and concealer to skin tone (light, medium, or dark).
  • Some alter skin tone with foundation.

Skin Undertone

  • Cool undertones: pinkish or reddish.
  • Warm undertones: yellowy or olive.
  • Neutral undertones: mixture of cool and warm.
  • Matching foundation to undertone:
    • Crucial unless minimizing a skin condition (rosacea, etc.).
    • Runny skin: excess redness/erythema, correctable with color correctors and heavy foundation.

Eyeshadow

  • Complement eye color.
  • Consider vibrancy preference.

Lip and Cheek Color

  • Coordinate lip and cheek color for a balanced look.
  • Match for natural looks, bridal makeup.
  • More freedom with vibrant/editorial looks.

Mature Clients

  • Avoid shimmer on deeper set wrinkles.
  • Use matte colors.

Face Shapes and Proportions

  • Analyzing face shapes informs hairstyle and accessory choices.
  • Oval face:
    • Considered ideal if well-proportioned.
  • Other face shapes:
    • Round, square, rectangle/oblong, triangle/pear, heart, diamond.
  • Considerations for contouring and highlighting:
    • Round faces may need more definition via contour.

Types of Cosmetics and Their Uses

  • Cosmetic choices depend on skin type, occasion, and needs.

Powders

  • Eyeshadows, blushes, foundations, face powder.
  • Best for oily skin; mattifies and minimizes oil.

Creams

  • Best for drier skin.

Liquids

  • Can suit either oily or dry skin depending on ingredients.
  • Mattifying liquids (clay) for oily skin.
  • Dewy liquids for drier skin.

Foundations

  • Oil-Based:
    • For drier or mature skin.
  • Water-Based:
    • Often matte finish for oily skin.
  • Silicone-Based:
    • Long-lasting.
    • Smoothes textured skin (acne scars, wrinkles).
  • Alcohol-Based:
    • Long-lasting.
    • Can be drying/irritating; use cautiously on dry, mature, or sensitive skin.
    • Typically used in theater or TV makeup.
  • Cake Makeup:
    • Heavy coverage, used for TV/film or covering severe acne/tattoos.
  • Grease Paint:
    • Very heavy, comedogenic (clogs pores), for events/film/TV, not for everyday use.
  • Powder Foundation:
    • Lighter coverage.
    • Best for oily skin.
    • Example: Bare Minerals.

Primers

  • Applied before foundation to create a smooth base.
  • Typically silicone-based.

Mineral Makeup

  • Ideal for oilier skin or younger clients wanting light coverage.
  • Non-comedogenic and natural.
  • Not ideal for mature clients as it can accentuate wrinkles.

Concealer & Face Powder

  • Concealer:
    • Spot treatment for blemishes/imperfections.
  • Face Powder:
    • Sets foundation and concealer.
    • Adds evenness/coverage.
    • Diminishes shininess.

Blush & Highlighter

  • Blush:
    • Cream, liquid, or powder.
    • Choice depends on skin type.
    • Adds natural glow.
  • Highlighter:
    • Optional, popular in recent years.
    • Not recommended for mature clients (accentuates wrinkles).
    • Enhances glow on smooth skin.

Eyeshadow & Eyeliner

  • Eyeshadow:
    • Accentuates and contours eyes.
    • Creates vibrant look.
  • Eyeliner:
    • Emphasizes eyes.
    • Types: pencil, liquid, pressed (eyeshadow consistency).

Eyebrow Color & Mascara

  • Eyebrow Color:
    • Adds definition and shape.
    • Match shade to natural brow color.
  • Mascara:
    • Darkens, defines, and thickens eyelashes.
    • Types: waterproof and regular.
    • Waterproof recommended for oily skin or excessive sweating.

Makeup Removers

  • Importance of makeup removal.
  • Remove contacts before using eye makeup remover.
  • Oil-based removers:
    • For heavy/waterproof makeup.
    • Example: pre-cleanse.
  • Water-based removers:
    • Micellar water.
    • Less irritating.

Lip Color

  • Optional.
  • Adds color, makes you look more alive.
  • Match to blush.
  • Lip liner:
    • Defines lips, fills uneven areas, prevents lipstick bleeding.