NAILS CH 6 ^-^
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"Hustle until your haters ask
if you're hiring."
Learning Objectives
After completing this chapter, you will be able to:
1. Explain why you should learn about manicuring.
2. List the services that are included in your state's scope of practice for nail technicians.
3. Describe the equipment needed to perform nail services.
4. List the types of multiuse and single-use implements used during nail services.
5. Describe the materials used during nail services.
6. Explain the uses of professional nail products.
7. Demonstrate the basic manicure technique.
8. Outline the steps in the application of nail polish.
9. Describe how to approach a man's manicure service.
10. Demonstrate the massage techniques for the nail professional.
11. Compare the process of a spa manicure and a basic manicure.
12. Identify the benefits and infection control practices for paraffin wax treatments.
13. Describe approaches to personal manicures that are sensitive to clients with special health
considerations.
Explain Why you Should Learn about Manicuring
Manicuring is the art of caring for and beautifying the hands and
fingernails. Once you have learned the fundamental techniques in this
chapter, you will officially be on your way to becoming a professional
nail technician.
As a nail technician, you should have a thorough understanding of
manicuring because:
• The appearance of nails and hands has become a visual benchmark in our
society in the assessment of a person, both socially and professionally.
• Fashions are continuously changing, and nail professionals should
stay current with new trends in the nail industry.
• Some clients cannot, due to health issues, maintain their own nails;
and others prefer to have a knowledgeable professional perform
this task for them.
• Clients love the relaxation and pampering that manicures provide in
this stressful world.
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List the Services that Are Included in your State's Scope of Practice for Nail Technicians
During your studies, you will learn about the regulations for performing
nail services within your state. These regulations are very import-
ant and will help you map out what is called your scope of practice
(SOP) (SKOPE UV PRAK-tis), or the list of services that you are legally
allowed to perform within your specialty in your state. The SOP may
or may not state those services that you cannot legally perform. Your
instructor will provide important guidelines for your close adherence
to the SOP in your state; however, if you are still unsure, check the cri-
teria online or call your state board directly. Know that if you perform
services outside those allowed by the regulations, you may lose your
license. Also, if a client is harmed while you are performing an illegal
service, you are fully liable, both professionally and personally.
It is important to note that if you are licensed in one state and then
move and become licensed in a different state, the scope of work
for your license may change. Always check with the local state board
to learn what the laws and regulations are for the state in which you
currently live.
CHECK IN
1. What is your scope of practice (SOP)?
2. What are the consequences for you, as a nail technician,
if you work outside your SOP?
FOCUS ON
Tools Needed for Nail Services
As a professional nail technician, it is important that you learn to work
with the tools required for nail services and know all safety, cleaning, and
disinfection procedures as stated in your state's regulations.
The four types of nail technology tools that you will incorporate into
your services include:
1. Equipment
2. Implements
3. Materials
4. Professional nail products
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Describe the Equipment Needed to Perform Nail Services
Equipment includes all tools used to perform nail services that are not
implements.
Manicure Table
A standard manicuring table usually includes a drawer for storing
properly cleaned and disinfected implements (IM-pluh-mentz) and
a shelf (one or more, with or without doors) for storing professional
products (Figure 6-1). The table can vary in length, but it
is usually 36" (91.4 cm) to 48" (121.9 cm) long with a width
of normally 16" (40.6 cm) to 21" (53.3 cm). The surface of
the table must be cleaned and disinfected after every client;
therefore, it must be a hard and impenetrable surface, such
as Formica or glass, and be kept clear of clutter.
Adjustable Lamp
An adjustable lamp is attached to the table and should use
a 40- to 60-watt incandescent bulb or a fluorescent bulb
(Figure 6-2). Fluorescent bulbs are very popular because
they emit cooler light. Most people prefer true-color fluo-
rescent bulb lamps; true indicates that they show the skin
and polishes in their actual color in natural light. Fluorescent
lights also do not heat up objects underneath the lamp,
as do high-watt incandescent bulbs. Higher temperatures
caused by an incandescent bulb can increase the curing
speed of some nail enhancement products. Curing too quickly can
cause undue cracking and lifting.
Chairs
The nail technician's chair should be selected for ergonomics, comfort,
durability, resistance to staining, and ease of cleaning. The most appro-
priate chair has wheels to allow the technician maneuverability and
hydraulics to allow up-and-down adjustment (Figure 6-3).
The client's chair must be durable and comfortable. For the comfort
of clients, select a chair that has no or low arms on the sides so it can
be moved closer to the table. This will allow the client's arms to rest on
the nail table and prevent the client and nail technician from needing
to stretch forward. The chair should also have a supportive back so the
client can sit comfortably and relax during the service. The client chair
should not have wheels: Such chairs are unstable and can cause falling
accidents for elderly or weak clients.
▲ FIGURE 6-1 The manicure
table is necessary for your service.
▲ FIGURE 6-2 Manicure table with an
adjustable lamp.
▲ FIGURE 6-3 Technician chair
with wheels for maneuverability and
hydraulics for height.
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CAUTION!
Do not touch or allow your
client to get too close to
your light source. Light
bulbs, especially incandes-
cent ones, can become
very hot while in use, and
the possibility of a burn is
very real.
Finger bowl
A finger bowl is used for soaking the client's fingers in warm water to
soften the skin and cuticle. It can be made from materials such as plas-
tic, metal, glass, or even an attractive ceramic. Finger bowls should be
durable and easy to thoroughly clean and disinfect after use on each
client (Figure 6-4).
Disinfection Container
A disinfection container must be large enough to hold sufficient liquid
disinfectant solution to completely immerse several service sets
(SERV-iss SETS) of implements (Figure 6-5). Containers
that do not allow the entire implement (including handles)
to be submerged are not acceptable for use in professional
salons. All disinfectant containers must be kept closed
when not in use to prevent contamination and evapora-
tion. For more information on disinfection containers, refer
to Milady Standard Foundations Chapter 5.
▲ FIGURE 6-4 A finger bowl is used to
soak the fingertips.
▲ FIGURE 6-5 Disinfection containers
with a removable tray.
Client's Arm Cushion
Consider using an 8" (20.3 cm) to 12" (30.5 cm) cush-
ion that can be cleaned with soap and water and that
is made especially for the comfort of the client's arm.
It must be covered with a fresh, clean towel for each
client. A clean towel that is folded or rolled to cushion
size may also be used instead of a commercially pur-
chased table cushion.
Service Cushion
A foam cushion that is higher in the middle and lower
on the ends can be placed between the client and the
nail technician during a manicure; this may provide more
comfort during the service for both parties. The service
cushion must be fully covered by a fresh, clean towel
throughout each service.
Gauze and Cotton Wipe Container
This container holds cotton, lint-free wipes, or gauze squares
for use during the services. It must have a lid to protect the
contents from dust and contaminants.
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Covered Trash Containers
A trash container with a self-closing lid should be located next to your
workstation (Figure 6-6). Trash containers should be lined with a dis-
posable trash bag and closed when not in use. It must be emptied at
the end of each workday and cleaned and disinfected often. Check
with your state regarding specific rules on cleaning and disinfection of
your trash container. A trash container with a self-closing lid is one way
to prevent excessive odors and vapors in the salon.
Supply Tray
A supply tray holds nail products such as polishes, polish removers, and
creams. It should be sturdy and easy to clean. Many technicians put every
product they need for the service that they will perform on a tray and then
lift it from a shelf in their station onto their table in one, efficient movement.
This keeps the tabletop clear, maintaining a clean, clutter-free appearance.
The tray needs to be cleaned and disinfected after every client.
Electric Nail Polish Dryer
A nail polish dryer is designed to shorten the time it takes for the client's
nail polish to dry. Electric dryers have heaters and fans that blow air
onto the nail plates to speed the evaporation of solvents from nail pol-
ishes, allowing them to harden more quickly. Light bulb-type nail polish
dryers create warmth to speed drying. They work in the same fashion as
electric dryers; they may or may not have fans.
UV or LED Light Units
Ultraviolet (UV) lamps (ul-truh-VY-uh-let LAMPS) and
light-emitting diode (LED) lamps (LYT ee-MITT-ing DYE-ode
LAMPS) are light units, although many clients think of them as
dryers. They are designed to cure, not dry, polishes that contain
an ingredient sensitive to the UVA wavelength of the bulb in
the dryer. To learn more about UV and LED light unites, refer to
Chapter 12, Gel Nail Enhancements.
Autoclave
An autoclave (AW-toe-klayv) uses high-temperature steam and
pressure to kill microorganisms and their spores (Figure 6-7).
An autoclave works like a pressure cooker, continuously gen-
erating steam, heat, and pressure until it reaches 250 degrees
Fahrenheit (or 121 degrees Celsius). Once optimal heat, pres-
sure, and steam levels are reached, it must remain at that point
for at least 15 minutes to kill all harmful microorganisms and
their spores. While using an autoclave remains the best way
▲ FIGURE 6-6 Metal trash can
with a self-closing lid.
▲ FIGURE 6-7 Autoclaves use
high-temperature steam and pressure to
sterilize tools and implements.
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"Action
is the
foundational
key to
all success."
-Pablo Picasso
to sterilize implements and tools, it needs to be done correctly. A spore
test should be conducted every 30 days to ensure it does not become
an incubator for pathogens. Check with your local state board on the use
of autoclaves and infection control laws.
SAY NO TO STERILIZERS
Electric sterilizers, bead sterilizers, and baby sterilizers should not be used
to disinfect or sterilize implements. These devices can spread potentially
infectious diseases and should never be used in a salon, spa, or barber-
shop. Additionally, UV light units will not disinfect or sterilize implements.
Most state rules require that you use liquid disinfecting solutions.
According to the CDC Guideline for Disinfection and Sterilization in
Healthcare Facilities (last updated in February 2017), "UV radiation has
several potential applications, but unfortunately its germicidal effec.
tiveness and use is influenced by organic matter; wavelength; type of
suspension; temperature; type of microorganism; and UV intensity." In
short, at this time, it is not appropriate for use in the salon environment.
Electric Hand/Foot Mitts
These heated mitts are designed to add special treatment to a mani-
cure. Heated mitts make for a higher-cost service or can be an add-on to
a service. After the massage, conditioning lotion or even a mask may be
applied to the hands and/or feet, which are then placed in a plastic cover
and inserted into the foot mitts. The warmth helps the conditioning ingredi-
ents to penetrate, adds to the comfort of the service, and provides ultimate
relaxation for the client. Electric mitts are available for both hands and feet.
Terry Cloth Mitts
These washable mitts are placed over a client's hands or feet after a pen-
etrating conditioning product has been applied, and a cover is placed
over the product to prevent it from getting onto the mitts. These mitts
are routinely used over paraffin to maintain the heat for a longer time
or over masks to encourage the natural heat from the skin to enhance
penetration of the product's ingredients.
Paraffin Treatment
A paraffin tub has an automatic thermostat that maintains the paraffin
at the ideal temperature for application to the hands and feet. Paraf
fin is applied to the skin to enhance moisture. The application can be
added to manicures and pedicures for an extra charge or included in
an upscale service.
All states require that items like paraffin (multiuse containers) be
removed for single use in a manner that does not contaminate remain-
ing product. You should never dip a client's hand or foot directly into
the paraffin tub. You may use the paraffin tub to heat up the product to
a safe temperature and then scoop the paraffin from the tub and place
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it in a clear paraffin bag, which is then placed over your client's hand or
foot. Any paraffin used on your client needs to be discarded after use.
Additional methods of safely incorporating paraffin to your service are
included later in this chapter.
Ventilation System
The products used when performing nail services may
contain chemicals that can affect a worker's well-being.
Exposure to nail dust and chemical odors and vapors can
affect one's breathing and respiratory health. These symp-
toms do not show up immediately but can sometimes take
months or even years to appear. Proper ventilation should
be used in the salon to protect nail technicians from becom-
ing overexposed to vapors and dust.
Fans and open widows are not substitutes for proper ven-
tilation; they will simply circulate vapors and dust around the
room. Fans and open windows will actually push the vapors
down closer to the ground where clients and technicians are
more likely to inhale them. They do not protect the breathing
zone, which is an invisible 2-foot sphere around the nail tech-
nician's head/face. One of the most effective ways to ensure
safe working conditions is local source capture ventilation sys-
tems. These systems are designed to capture vapors and dust
at the source and remove them from the air before they have
a chance to escape into the salon (Figure 6-8). Many types
of local exhaust systems are mobile and can be easily trans-
ported from one station to another.
Some salons have ventilated tables with filters. In order
for these to improve the air quality, these filters need to be
changed regularly. It is best if the tables are vented to the
outside.
There are also portable downdraft vent machines
that use a powerful fan to pull down and capture chem-
ical vapors and nail dust into a two-stage carbon filter
(Figure 6-9). These carbon filter vent machines sit directly.
below the nail technician's breathing zone, capturing dust
and vapors right at the source. The fan pulls the nail dust
and odor down through the filter, leaving odor and chemi-
cal-free air at the source.
CHECK IN
3. What equipment is needed to perform nail services? JA
4. Are autoclaves, finger bowls, and disinfection containers
are considered equipment?
5. Are cuticle nippers and metal pushers are considered
Equipment?
▲ FIGURE 6-8 Vents help to pull dust
and toxins from the air, keeping you and your
client safe.
▲ FIGURE 6-9 Portable two stage carbon
filter ventilation system that captures dust
and filters chemical odors.
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List Types of Multiuse and
Single-Use Implements Used
During Nail Services
Implements are tools used to perform your services. They are multi-
ple use (reusable) or single use (disposable). Multiuse implements
(mul-tee-YOOS IM-pluh-mentz) are generally stainless steel, as they
must be properly cleaned and disinfected prior to use on another client.
Less expensive, nickel-plated metal implements will corrode during
disinfection and sterilization. Single-use implements (SING-ul YOOS
IM-pluh-mentz) cannot be reused and must be thrown away after a one
use. Nail technicians should have several clean and disinfected service
sets of implements available for use at all times.
Types of Multiuse Implements
Multiuse implements are those that can be reused after infection control
procedures have been performed on them. They are metal-stainless
steel if they are to maintain their quality. Here are examples of multiuse
implements.
METAL PUSHER
The metal pusher (meh-TAL PUSH-uhr), many times incorrectly called a
cuticle pusher, is actually not to be used to push back the eponychium.
It is designed to gently scrape cuticle tissue from the natural nail plate.
Metal pushers must be stainless steel and used carefully so they do not
cause damage to the nail and the nail matrix or lead to microscopic
trauma or injury to the tissues. Improper use on the nail plate can cause
grooving in the nail plate. Damage to the nail matrix can cause nail
growth problems, and tiny microscopic openings in the skin can allow
microbes to enter through the skin that can lead to infection.
If you have rough or sharp edges on your metal pusher, use an
abrasive to smooth or remove them. This prevents digging into the nail
plate or potentially damaging the protective barriers created by the
eponychium and cuticle. Take care not to thin the file's edges into a
blade, which would allow it to cut the tissue.
Hold the metal pusher the way you hold a pencil, with the flat end
held at a 20- to 30-degree angle from the nail plate.
With the spoon end, carefully loosen and push back
the dead cuticle tissue on the nail plate (Figure 6-10).
NAIL NIPPERS
A nail nipper (NAYL NIP-ur) is a stainless-steel implement used to carefully trim away dead skin around the nails. It is never used to cut, rip,
or tear live tissue, as the live nail fold tissue is important to ward off
▲ FIGURE 6-10 Stainless pusher tool.
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microbes and prevent infection around the nail plate. Nippers must be
cleaned and disinfected before use on every client, taking special care
to open the hinges for cleaning and disinfecting.
Always maintain a sharp edge on your nippers to prevent accidental
ripping and tearing into the live tissue.
It is important that you learn the correct use of nail nippers
while in school. To use nippers, hold your thumb around one
handle and three fingers around the other, with the blades fac-
ing the nail plate. Your index finger is placed on the box joint to
help control the blade and guide it properly (Figure 6-11).
TWEEZERS
Tweezers are multiuse implements that can be used for lifting small
bits of debris from the nail plate, retrieving and placing nail art,
removing implements from disinfectant solutions, and much more
(Figure 6-12). They must be properly cleaned and disinfected
before use on any client, as they may come in contact with a client's
skin or nails. They must be stainless steel in order to be disinfected
after use.
NAIL CLIPPERS
Nail clippers (NAYL KLIP-urz) shorten the free edge quickly
and efficiently. If your client's nails are too long, clipping
them will save filing time during your service. Clip the nails
from each side to prevent stress damage to the sides of the nail plates
and then file to shape the nails. Nail clippers must be properly cleaned
and disinfected before use on every client. These implements must be
stainless steel to be properly disinfected.
Many nail technicians prefer to shorten toenails with an implement
that is similar to a heavy-duty nail nipper but with a curved shape of the
cutting head. These tools are used differently from nail clippers; you
start from a side and nip the nail in small bites across the free edge,
taking care to trim only the free edge and not to nip the tissues sur-
rounding the nails. The nipper jaws are held at a 45-degree angle to
the nail, with the tips pointed away from the hyponychium and the
lower tip pointed into the free edge.
Single-Use Implements
All single-use implements are used once on a client. They are then
discarded, preferably in the client's view to ensure that they are indeed
not being used again.
BRUSHES AND APPLICATORS
Any brush or applicator that comes into contact with a client's nails or
skin during a manicure or pedicure must be properly cleaned and disinfected before use on another client. If they cannot be properly cleaned
▲ FIGURE 6-11 Nail Nipper.
▲ FIGURE 6-12 Tweezers.
DID YOU KNOW?
A nail technician needs at
least three sets of quality,
stainless steel implements in
order to have a completely
clean and disinfected set
ready for each client. One
set is in the disinfectant or
autoclave, a second is in
use, and a third set is ready
for use. Remember, it can
take approximately 15 to 20
minutes to properly clean
and then disinfect implements after each use and 25
minutes for the autoclave
process to be completed. By
always having a set of implements ready, your clients
won't have to wait for the
disinfection process if you
run late.
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▲ FIGURE 6-13 Wooden Pusher.
and disinfected according to your state's regulations, they must be
disposed of after a single use. Check with the manufacturer if you are
unsure whether a brush or applicator can be properly cleaned and then
disinfected.
Nail polish brushes are the exception. They are stored in an
oxygen-free, water-free liquid (polish), and the chemicals used in the
polishes do not allow for the growth of microbes. However, microbes
just picked up by the brush can be carried to another nail if the brush is
immediately used to polish.
WOODEN PUSHER
The wooden pusher (WOHD-en PUSH-uhr) is used to remove dead
cuticle tissue from the nail plate, to clean under the free edge of
the nail, or to apply products (Figure 6-13). Hold the stick as
you would a pencil with the tip at a 20- to 30-degree angle
from the nail plate while pushing the cuticle free. It is a sin-
gle-use implement and not intended for reuse or disinfec-
tion. Apply nail products by completely wrapping the end
of the stick with a small piece of cotton and placing or dip-
ping the product onto the cotton. If the cotton tip is dipped into
the product, enough must be retrieved for the entire application. If
more product is needed, the cotton on your wooden pusher must be
changed after each application; alternatively, the product can be placed
into a dappen dish for use specific to that client and then disposed of to
prevent contamination of the product. Using products that have spout
lids can shorten the application time. The spout must not touch the cot-
ton tip, nail plate, or the skin.
NAIL BRUSHES
There are many types of brushes used in a nail service and many brushes
have multiple uses. For example, the plastic nail cleaning implement is
used in many ways during nail services.
• Clients use a nail brush when they arrive at the salon as part of the
hand-washing procedure.
• A nail technician uses a nail brush to remove surface debris during a
service.
• A nail technician uses a nail brush during hand washing between
clients.
• A nail brush is used to scrub the implements before disinfection-a
very important task.
• A nail brush is used to remove dust or debris from the application
of artificial nails.
It is important to note that natural hair nail brushes cannot be cleaned
or disinfected and should be discarded after use. Synthetic hair brushes
can be cleaned and disinfected by immersion. There is one exception
to this rule, and that is when you are using products that are not capable
of harboring or supporting the growth of pathogenic microbes-such
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as alcohol, nail polish, monomers and polymers. UV gels, and nail prim-
ers. Since these products cannot harbor or support pathogen growth,
the brushes do not need to be cleaned and disinfected between each
use unless they touch a contaminated surface immediately before mov-
ing to another nail. Since nail technicians can only work on healthy nails,
contaminated nails should not be an issue. However, a brush used to
apply oil to the nail plate or cuticles should be considered contaminated since these products can become exposed to bacteria and do
support bacterial growth. You should use disposable brushes or drop-
pers to apply oils to the nail plate or surrounding skin and dispose of
them after use.
DISPOSABLE PRODUCT APPLICATION BRUSHES
Disposable application brushes can be used to apply nail oils or treatments to a client's nails. It is recommended that you purchase inexpensive, disposable brushes to apply products that can support bacterial
growth. Dip enough product out of the container onto your brush for
your entire application or pour a small amount of the product into a
clean dappen dish. Dip the application brush into the dish throughout
the application and then throw both the brush and the product away
after the application is finished.
CHECK IN
6. What are implements?
7. What is the difference between multiuse and single-use
implements?
8. Is a wooden pusher a single-use or multiuse implement?
Why?
Describe the Materials Used During Nail Services
Materials and supplies used during a manicure are designed to be
single use and must be replaced for each client. These items are considered not reusable.
Gloves
Gloves are personal protective equipment (PPE) worn to protect the
nail technician from exposure to microbes during services. The Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA) defines PPEs as "specialized
clothing or equipment worn by an employee for protection against a
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▲ FIGURE 6-14 It is important to wear a
dust mask to protect yourself from dust and
vapors.
▲ FIGURE 6-15 Abrasive nail
block buffer.
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PART 2 Nail Services
hazard." The hazards this particular standard refers to are bloodborne
pathogens (BBPs), pathogenic microorganisms that are present in
human blood, and other body fluids that can cause disease in humans
Gloves are single-use equipment: A new set is used for every d
ent. Gloves may need to be changed during the service, according
to the protocol, Gloves are removed by inverting the cuffs, pulling
them off inside out, and then disposing of them into the trash. The
glove taken off first is held in the hand with a glove still on it, the
glove with the cuff inverted is pulled over the first glove inside out
The first glove is then inside the second one, which has the servite
side now on the inside against the other glove. Both gloves are dis.
posed of together.
When you perform a manicure and a pedicure on the same client,
you must wear a new set of gloves for each service. If the services
require that you move from one place of service to another several
times, you will need several sets of gloves. You should wash your
hands after removing each set of gloves and before putting on a
new set when two services are being performed together or apply
antimicrobial gel cleanser between sets of gloves during the same
appointment.
Dust Mask
Use a high-quality, properly fitted dust mask when transfer-
ring chemicals from one container to another or when buff-
ing or filing nails. It is best to use a round dust mask with
a metal strip that you can adjust to fit the bridge of your
nose. Properly fitted dust masks rated N-95 are highly effec-
tive and an excellent choice for preventing inhalation over
exposure to dusts (Figure 6-14). Choose a mask designed
specifically for dusts, mists, or molds to ensure that it will
be effective in the salon setting. Paper dust masks protect
you from nail filing dust but not chemicals. Masks are not
intended for long-term use and should be replaced daily to
remain effective. You can wear an air-purifying respirator to
filter chemical vapors or use an air purifying ventilation sys-
tem at your table. Make sure you purchase a professional
air purifier designed for heavy-duty use, not one designed
primarily for residential use.
Abrasive Nail Files and Buffers
Abrasive nail files and buffers (Figure 6-15) are available in many
different types and grits, such as those with firm, rigid supporting cores or others with foam, very flexible cores. They are single
use. Grits range from less than 100 to over 240 per centimeter. A rule of
thumb is the lower the grit, the larger the abrasive particles on the file
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and the more aggressive its action. Therefore, coarse-grit abrasive (Kors-
GRIT uh-BRAY-siv) files and buffers (100 or less grit) quickly reduce any
surface and produce deeper and more visible scratches than do those of
a higher grit. As such, lower-grit files must be used with caution and are
generally not used on natural nails. Higher-grit files remove scratches and
smooth surfaces through polishing.
Medium-grit abrasives (MEE-dee-um GRIT uh-BRAY-sivs) (150-180)
are used to smooth and refine surfaces; used to shorten and shape natural nails. Fine-grit abrasives (FYN GRIT uh-BRAY-sivs) feature grits of
240 and higher. They are designed for buffing, polishing, and removing
very fine scratches.
You must prep or edge your abrasive files before using them on
a client to prevent cutting the client with the sharp edges. These
files are stamped from a large sheet of prepared materials, leaving
very sharp edges that are not removed before the files are shipped.
You are responsible for removing this damaging edge from every
new file.
To prepare a file for use, rub another (clean, unused) file across the
edges to remove the sharp edge; this is called file prepping. Many
nail technicians prepare all their new files and then store them in a
clean container. If the edge is not removed on new files, clients will
be at risk for cuts. Check the corners of buffers, too; they also need to
be prepped.
Abrasive boards and buffers typically have one, two, or three differ-
ent grit surfaces, depending on the type, use, and style. Some abrasive
boards and buffers can be cleaned and disinfected. Here is a simple rule
to follow: If they are made of a paper product, they cannot be cleaned
or disinfected, so throw them out after each use. Check with the manufacturer to see if the abrasive of your choice can be disinfected. All
abrasives must be cleaned and disinfected before reused on another
client. Check with your instructor as to whether your state allows the
use of abrasive boards that are considered disinfectable; some states
do not. Abrasives that cannot survive the cleaning and disinfection pro-
cess without being damaged are considered disposable and must be
discarded after a single use.
Two-Way or Three-Way Buffer
The two or three-way buffer abrasive technology replaces the
chamois that becomes contaminated with multiple uses and creates
a beautiful shine on nails (Figure 6-16). The buffer is shaped like a
two-sided nail file, long and narrow, with one or two additional grit
abrasives and a final shine surface. Begin with the lowest-grit abrasive surface in the smoothing task, move to the larger grit, and then
finally on to the shining surface (usually no grit). The result is a glossy
shine on the nails. This buffer is generally used on natural nails and in
the final steps of the two-color application of acrylic nails, such as the
▲ FIGURE 6-16 Three-way shine buffers.
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CAUTION!
Excessive pressure or buffing too long on the nail
plate with abrasives that
are too low in grit can gen-
erate excessive and painful
heat into the nail bed and
can lead to onycholysis
and possible infection. If
your client is feeling heat
or burning, lighten the
pressure, lower the speed
of the buffing, and raise
the buffer from the surface
between buff passes.
French manicure look, to produce beautiful, smooth nails that will be
worn with sheer or clear polish only. Most two- or three-way buffers
are single-use only and must be thrown away after each use. The salon
or technician must find an inexpensive source for purchasing them if
regulations in the state allow their use.
Single-Use or Terry Cloth Towels
Towels are an example of materials that do not require immersion dis.
infection if they are properly laundered by the salon or laundry. Cloth
towels must be washed between clients; paper towels must be thrown
away after use. Each client should use a fresh, clean terry cloth towel or
a new disposable paper towel after washing their hands. The best terry
cloth towel for use in a personal service is white, as it can be bleached
during washing between uses. Other clean towels are used to cover any
surfaces that cannot be disinfected during each manicure, including the
work area. If spills occur on the table, use a terry cloth or disposable
towel to wipe them from the surface.
▲ FIGURE 6-17 Materials used to remove polish and clean nail bed before polishing.
Gauze, Cotton Balls, Pledgets, or Plastic-Backed Pads
Lint-free, plastic-backed fiber or cotton pads are often used in
the beauty industry to remove nail polish. Plastic backing pro-
tects nail professionals' fingertips from overexposure to drying
solvents and other chemicals (Figure 6-17).
Gauze squares, cotton rounds, or cotton balls are also popular for removing nail polish: They are inexpensive and perfectly
designed for this and other application tasks. Gauze squares
(2" x 2" or 4" x 4"), also called pledgets, have many uses in
manicure services, from product removal to application. Store
these materials in a manner to prevent dust and debris from
contaminating them.
ACTIVITY
Set Up your Table
Practice setting up your
manicuring table with all
the necessary equipment,
implements, and materials.
Do this for a basic manicure
and a spa manicure.
Plastic, Wooden, or Metal Spatulas
Use a single-use plastic, wooden, or multiuse metal spatula when
removing products from their respective containers to prevent contamination of the products and the spread of disease. If a plastic or
metal spatula comes into contact with your or the client's skin, it must
be properly cleaned and disinfected before being used again or disposed of and replaced with a new, disposable spatula. Dispose of a
wooden spatula when it comes into contact with your or the client's
skin. In addition, never use the same spatula to remove unlike products from different containers, as the chemistry of the products may
not be the same.
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CHECK IN
9. Define PPE according to Occupational Safety and Health
Act (OSHA).
10. Name two types of personal protective equipment (PPE).
11. What is the one exception to the rule when using disposable application brushes?
Explain the Uses of Professional Nail Products
As a professional, you need to know how to properly use professional
products, what ingredients they contain, and what they do during and
after use. You must also know how to properly store products and
remove them from their containers in a sanitary manner. This section
provides a basic understanding of several professional nail products.
STATE REGULATORY ALERT
Reusing implements without properly cleaning and disinfecting them is
against the regulations in every state. This inappropriate and illegal use of
implements puts clients at risk of the transfer of infection.
Soap
Soap is used to clean the nail technician's and the client's hands before
a service. It acts as an infection-control tool during this pre-service
hand-washing procedure by mechanically removing microbes and debris.
Soap is known to remove over 90 percent of pathogenic microbes from
the hands (if they are washed properly).
Liquid soaps (Figure 6-18) are recommended because bar soap
harbors bacteria and can become a breeding ground for pathogenic
(disease-producing) bacteria.
Polish Remover
Polish removers are used to dissolve and remove nail polish. Two
types of polish removers are available: acetone and non-acetone
based products. Acetone (AS-uh-tone) is a colorless, inflammable
liquid; it is miscible with water, alcohol, and ether; and has a sweet-
ish odor or burning taste. It is used as a solvent. Both acetone-based
and non-acetone-based removers may contain additional ingredients,
such as aloe, vitamin E, or oils to prevent drying of the nail plate and
surrounding skin.
HAND
SOAP
▲ FIGURE 6-18 Use pump
bottles of soap at the handwashing station.
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DID YOU KNOW?
The Centers for Disease
Control (CDC) states that
it does not matter whether
the soap/cleanser used in a
salon is antibacterial or not;
it will still remove microbes
and debris. Furthermore,
repeated use of some anti-
bacterial soaps/cleansers
can be drying to the skin.
However, many clients feel
more secure if they are
using an antibacterial soap
at the wash station.
DID YOU KNOW?
Many experienced nail
technicians prefer using pure
acetone to remove polish
for three reasons: 1) They
feel the added ingredients
in polish removers slow the
removal process; 2) they
believe the added ingredi-
ents unnecessarily increase
the cost of the product; and
3) they can remove product
quickly.
Acetone-based polish remover works more quickly and is a better sol-
vent than non-acetone based removers. Non-acetone removers will not
dissolve enhancement products as quickly as acetone, so they are pre-
ferred when removing nail polish from nail enhancements such as wraps.
However, many experienced nail technicians prefer acetone-based
removers because it removes the polish more quickly and they feel that
with their experience and speedy work, the rapid evaporation of the ace-
tone will not dissolve or damage the enhancements. Polish removers that
are acetone and non-acetone based can be used safely; however, both
can be drying to the cuticle and surrounding skin. As with all products,
read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.
When using polish remover, saturate a cotton ball, gauze pad, or
plastic-backed cotton pad and hold the saturated cotton on each nail
while you silently count to 10. The old polish will now come off easily
from the nail plate with a stroking motion that moves toward the free
edge. Use a confident, firm touch while removing the polish. Continue
until all traces of polish are gone. Complete removal of the polish
from the previous manicure is important for client satisfaction. It may
be necessary to wrap cotton around the tip of a wooden pusher and
wet with polish remover to clean polish away from the nail fold area.
According to OSHA, you must follow instructions for safely disposing
of used chemicals. DO NOT pour them down the sink or toilet, throw
them on the ground or down outside drains, or pour them onto cotton
balls. Some chemicals have specific disposal requirements. For exam-
ple, used liquid acetone must be saved in a fire department-approved
metal container and disposed of as hazardous waste.
Nail Creams, Lotions, and Oils
These products are designed to soften dry skin around the nail plate and
to increase the flexibility of natural nails. They are especially effective
on nails that appear to be brittle or dry and are the number one nail
product that should be sold to manicure and pedicure clients. Nail
creams (NAYL KREEMZ) are barrier products: They contain ingredients
designed to seal the surface of the skin around the nails and hold in
the subdermal moisture in the skin. Nail oils (NAYL OYLZ) are designed
to be absorbed into the nail plate to increase flexibility and into the
surrounding skin to soften and moisturize. Typically, oils and lotions can
penetrate the nail plate or skin and will have longer-lasting effects than
creams. However, all three can be highly effective and useful for clients,
especially as daily use home care products.
Cuticle Removers
Cuticle removers are designed to loosen and dissolve dead tissue on
the nail plate so that the tissue can be more easily and thoroughly
removed from the nail plate; therefore, they are inappropriate for
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contact with the living skin of the eponychium. Typically, these products
have a high pH (caustic) and are irritating to the skin. Be careful during
application that the cuticle remover is applied to the nail plate and not
the surrounding skin.
These products typically contain 2 to 5 percent sodium or potassium
hydroxide plus glycerin or other moisturizing ingredients to counteract
their skin-drying effects. They must be used in strict accordance with the
manufacturer's directions, and live skin contact must be avoided where
possible to counter the effects of the alkaline ingredients. Excessive
exposure of the eponychium to cuticle removers can cause live skin and
eponychium dryness, as well as hangnails.
Colored Polish, Enamel, Lacquer, or Varnish
Colored coatings applied to the natural nail plate are variously known
as polish, enamel, lacquer, or varnish. All of these terms are actually
marketing terms used to describe the same types of products containing
similar ingredients.
Polish is a generic term describing any type of solvent-based colored
film applied to the nail plate for the purpose of adding color or special
visual effects (e.g., sparkles). It is important to note that every polish has
acrylic in it, despite the claims of some companies that sell all natural
polish. Without acrylic, polish would not harden to the shape of the nail.
Also, the chemicals that some people claim to be toxic have long been
removed from the formulations of all major polish companies.
Polish is usually applied in two coats over a base coat and followed
by a topcoat (Figure 6-19).
Gel Polish
Gel polish is a form of nail color that does not dry due to exposure to
the air, but cures when placed under a UV or LED lamp. It addresses the
constant smudging that clients experience after a service has recently
been performed. Developed specifically for natural nails, it is now also
used on enhancements (after adjustments to application methods were
made). See Chapter 12 for more information on gels and gel polishes.
HYBRID GELS
Hybrid gels are gel polishes that combine the best of the polish worlds.
They have the durability and gloss of gels but can be removed like
polishes with polish remover-although it takes longer. (Gel polishes
originally had to be removed through abrasion.) The application is
basically the same as traditional polishes, although there are nuances
that should be learned through education by the manufacturer of the
gel. Gels require a light-cured base coat and topcoat that are opti-
mally from the manufacturer that designed the gel polish.
DID YOU KNOW?
Never shake your pol-
ish bottles Shaking your
polish traps air inside the
bottle, which produces air
bubbles that can cause the
polish application to look
rough and have an irreg
ular appearance. Instead,
gently roll the polish bottles
upside down between your
palms to thoroughly mix. If
you must shake your polish,
do so gently then open it
to allow some of the air to
escape. Make sure you close
the bottle then wait at least
30 minutes before applying.
▲ FIGURE 6-19 Nail polish
comes in many colors and
variations.
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Base Coat
A base coat creates a colorless layer on the natural nail or nail enhance-
ment that promotes the adhesion of polish (Figure 6-20). It also
reduces the potential for polish to develop a yellowish staining or other
discoloration on the natural nail plate; some nail plates are especially
susceptible to stains from red or dark colors. Base coats are also import-
ant to use on nail enhancements under colored polish to prevent sur-
face staining. Like nail polishes, base coats contain solvents designed
to evaporate. These products usually contain a form of adhesive that
aids in retaining the polish for a longer time. After evaporation (drying),
a sticky, adhesion-promoting film is left behind on the surface of the nail
plate to increase adhesion of the colored coating.
Light-cured gel polishes require a light-cured base coat.
▲ FIGURE 6-20 Light-cured gel polishes require a light-cured base coat.
Nail Hardener
Nail hardeners are used to improve the surface hardness or durability
of weak or thin nail plates. Some can also prevent splitting or peeling
of the nail plate, if used properly. Hardeners can be applied before the
base coat or after as topcoat, according to the manufacturer's directions.
There are several basic types of nail hardeners:
A protein hardener (PRO-teen HARD-nur) is a combination of clear
polish and protein, such as collagen. This provides a clear, hard coating
on the surface of the nail but does not change or affect the natural nail
plate itself. Protein (collagen) has very large molecules that cannot be
absorbed into the nail plate.
Other nail hardeners contain reinforcing fibers, such as nylon, that
also cannot be absorbed into the nail plate. Therefore, the protection
they provide comes from the coating itself. They are not therapeutic.
These products can be used on any natural nail.
Nail hardeners do not contain formaldehyde, as was once believed
in the industry. The ingredient is actually methylene glycol, an ingredi-
ent that creates bridges or cross-links between the keratin strands that
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make up the natural nail, making the plate stiffer and more resistant to
bending and breaking. Methylene glycol is also not irritating to the skin.
These products are useful for thin and weak nail plates, but should
never be applied to nails that are already very hard, rigid, and/or brittle.
Methylene glycol hardeners can make brittle nails become so rigid that
they may split and shatter. If signs of excessive brittleness or splitting.
discoloration of the nail bed, development of ventral pterygium, or other
signs of adverse nail and skin reactions occur, discontinue use. These
products should be used as instructed by the manufacturer until the cli-
ent's nails reach the desired goal and then their use should be discontin-
ued until the product is needed again. Clients are generally instructed
to apply the product daily over nail polish as a topcoat, or under nail
polish as a base coat when the polish is removed and reapplied. Clients
must be instructed to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Dimethyl urea hardeners (DY-meth-il YUR-ee-ah HARD-nurz) use
dimethyl urea (DMU) to also add cross-links to the natural nail plate.
DMU does not cause adverse skin reactions. This hardener does not
work as quickly as a hardener containing methylene glycol, but will not
over-harden nails, as the latter can with overuse.
Topcoat
Topcoats are applied over colored polish to prevent chipping and to add a
shine or a matte finish to the nail. These products contain ingredients that
create hard, shiny, or matte films after the solvent has evaporated. Typi-
cally the main ingredients are methacrylic or cellulose-type film formers.
FAST-DRY TOPCOAT
Another kind of topcoat that you will likely use in your practice is fast-dry
topcoat. Quick-dry or fast-dry topcoats use the same technology and
ingredients as regular polish, but the ratio of ingredients is not the same.
Quick-dry topcoats use higher levels of solvent, which evaporates
quickly. Solvent is the key ingredient in determining how quickly the
polish dries as well as the thickness of the product. Fast-dry topcoats
are also available in shiny and matte finishes.
Nail Polish Dryer Products
Nail polish dryer products are designed to hasten the drying of nail
polishes. They are typically applied with a dropper or brush or can be
sprayed onto the surface of the polish. They promote rapid drying by
pulling solvents from the nail polish, causing the colored film to form
more quickly. These products can dramatically shorten drying time and
will reduce the risk of the client smudging a fresh polish application.
Hand Creams and Lotions
Hand creams and lotions add a finishing touch to a manicure. Because they
soften and smooth the hands, they make the skin and finished manicure
CAUTION!
All base coats, topcoats,
nail polishes, and hardeners are highly flammable.
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look as beautiful as possible. Hand creams are generally designed to be
barriers on the skin to help the skin retain its natural moisture or contain
penetrating ingredients to soften the skin or repair damage. Their pur-
pose is to make the skin on the hands less prone to becoming dry or
cracked. Lotion is generally more penetrating than creams and may treat
lower levels of the epidermis. Mitts or paraffin dips can be used over a
lotion to enhance penetration of the ingredients into the skin.
Nail Conditioners
Nail conditioners contain ingredients to reduce brittleness of the nail.
They should be applied as directed by the manufacturer and are especially useful when applied at night before bedtime. They include oils,
lotions, or creams.
Sunscreens
These lotions contain ingredients that protect the skin from damage
caused by ultraviolet rays (UVA and UVB) from the sun (Figure 6-21).
UVA is known to cause age spots (hyperpigmentation) on the backs
of the hands and damage to the DNA of the cells of the skin. UVB is
also known as the burning rays and it is what causes sunburns. Over-
exposure to the sun is a major cause of aging and skin cancer. Encour-
age your clients to purchase and use broad-spectrum sunscreens on
all their exposed skin. Some products only protect from UVA rays;
broad-spectrum indicates the product will usually protect from both
UVA and UVB rays. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is
developing new requirements for the labeling of these products.
CHECK IN
12. Why are liquid soaps recommended over bar soaps?
13. How should you properly dispose of used acetone?
14. What is the main difference between gel polishes and
hybrid gels?
15. Why is sunscreen important in manicuring services?
Demonstrate the Basic Manicure Technique
The basic manicure is the foundation of all nail technology services;
it is vital that you know and recognize all of the components necessary for making this service successful. A manicure (MAN-ih-kyoor)
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is a cosmetic treatment of the hands involving cutting, shaping, and
often polishing the nails; removal of the cuticles; and softening of
the skin. The information you learn for the basic manicure will serve
as a foundation for all the other nail services that you will perform in
your career.
If you can get your basic manicure procedure, including polish-
ing, down to 30 to 45 minutes at the most (preferably 30 minutes)
before you leave your school environment, you will be more attrac-
tive as a new hire to employers and more successful throughout the
course of your career. Practice until you can perform the skills auto-
matically, without considering what is next in the protocol, and you
will demonstrate the confidence and professionalism that clients seek
in their nail technician.
Three-Part Procedure
If you break your nail care procedures down into three parts, it will
be easier to keep track of what you are doing, remain organized, and
give consistent service. These three parts are: pre-service, service,
and post-service.
A. PRE-SERVICE PROCEDURE
The pre-service procedure is an organized, step-by-step plan for clean-
ing and disinfecting your tools, implements, and materials; setting up
the basic manicuring table; and meeting, greeting, and escorting your
client to your service area.
B. SERVICE PROCEDURE
The service procedure is an organized, step-by-step plan for
accomplishing the actual service the client has requested, such as a
manicure, a pedicure, or nail tips.
C. POST-SERVICE PROCEDURE
The post-service procedure is an organized, step-by-step plan for
caring for your client after the procedure has been completed. It out-
lines how to help your client through the scheduling and payment
processes of the salon and provides information on how to prepare
for the next client.
Hand Washing
To prevent the spread of communicable disease, it is imperative to
wash your hands before and after each client and to have your clients
wash their hands before they sit down at your cleaned and disinfected
manicure table. Your regular clients should be so well trained in the
practice of hand washing before any procedure that they go directly
to the washing station before coming to your nail table. Refer to
Procedure 5-1 in Milady Standard Foundations.
CAUTION!
During a manicure, always
file the nails before they
are soaked, as water will
absorb into the nail plate
and make it softer and
more easily damaged
during filing
PERFORM
Procedure 6-1:
Pre-Service Procedure
HERE'S A TIP
If the nails are long and
need to be shortened more
than the usual amount of
filing, they can be cut with
nail clippers (or nail nippers
if they are extremely long).
Clip or nip from the sides in
small bits toward the center
of the nails to prevent stress
to the sides and possible
splitting. This clipping will
save time during the filing
process. File the free edge
after using the nail clipper
to perfect the shaping.
-PERFORM
Procedure 6-2:
Post-Service Procedure
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-PERFORM
Procedure 6-3:
Performing a Basic Manicure
HAND SANITIZER
Although the CDC states that hand sanitizers are appropriate for use,
they also note that they are to be used only when water is not available
for hand washing. It is very important to remember that these products
cannot and do not replace proper hand washing. Proper hand washing
is a vital part of the service and it cannot be skipped or ignored. Resort
to using a hand sanitizer only when it's absolutely necessary!
The Manicure Consultation
The consultation with the client before the manicure, or any other
service, is an opportunity for the nail technician to get to know the
client and understand their expectations or needs. Do not rush through
the consultation-it is a vital part of the service.
If the client is new to the salon, they should already have filled out
the information on the consultation form in the waiting area. Use this
information to perform the client consultation. Look at the forms closely
for important responses from the client and then record your observations after the service (Figure 6-22).
CLIENT CONSULTATION FORM
Our sincerest hope is to serve you with the best nail care services you've ever received! We want you to be happy with
today's visit, and we also want to build a long-lasting relationship filled with trust and complete satisfaction with our services.
In order for us to do this, we would like to learn more about you, your nail care needs, and your preferences. Please take a
mornent to answer the questions below as completely and as occurately as possible.
Nome
Address
Phone Numbers: Home Mobile
Email Address:
What is your preferred method of communication?
Gender: Male Female
How did you hear about our salon?
If you were referred to our salon, who refemed you?
▲ FIGURE 6-22 Client Consultation Form (Continued).
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CLIENT CONSULTATION FORM
1. Approximately when was your last nail care service?
2. In the past year, have you had any of the following services done either in or out of a selen?
Manicure
Pedicure
Nail Enhancements
Other
3. It is important that you discuss with your nail technician any chronic condition(s) you may have, so that precautions can be considered.
Examples of conditions would be circulatory diseases, diabetes, peripheral artery disease (PAD), arthritis, high blood pressure, and others.
4. How would you characterize your natural nails?
Normal
Brittle
Polish Streng
Flexible
5. Do you regularly receive any of the following nail services?
(Check all that apply):
Manicure
Nail Dip Enhancements
Gel Nail Enhancements
Other
6. Do you receive any of the following foot services? (Check all that apply):
Basic Pedicure
Spo Pedicure
Fabric Wraps
Natural Nail Treatments
Paraffin Hand Treatments
Masks or Paraffin Foot Treatments
7. Please share information about your most successful and least successful types of nail services.
8. What types of frequent activities do you engage in that could cause damage to your nails?
9. What are you goals for today's nail appointment?
10. Do you have a special occasion coming up in the near future where your nails must look their absolute best? If so, when?
▲ FIGURE 6-22 Client Consultation Form (Continued).
Always check the client's nails and skin to make sure that they are
healthy and the service you are providing is appropriate. Next, discuss
the service. Then, after the client has an understanding of the service
being provided, discuss the preferred shape, color, and length of nails.
You must be careful not to diagnose a disease or disorder in any way.
All information should then be recorded on the client service form. If
there are no health issues observed, continue with the service.
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ACTIVITY
Practice Nail Shapes
Based on the nail shapes
chart, practice performing
basic nail shapes by shaping
your nails or those of
another student.
Keep the following considerations in mind: shape of the
hands, length of fingers, shape of the eponychium area, hobbies,
recreational activities, and type of work. Generally it is recom-
mended that the shape of the nail plate enhances the overall
shape of the fingertips, fingers, and hands of the client. Refer to
Milady Standard Foundations, Chapter 3, to learn more about the
client consultation.
Basic Nail Shapes
Always discuss the final shape that your clients want for
their nails during the consultation. Do your best to please your
client. There are five basic shapes that are most often preferred
(see Table 6-1).
▼ TABLE 6-1 Basic Nail Shapes
Shape
square
Definition
The square nail (SKWAYR NAYL) is completely straight across the free
edge, with no rounding at the outside edges.
squoval
The squoval nail (SKWOVAL NAYL) (soft square) has a square free edge
that is rounded off at the corner edges. If a nail in this shape extends only
slightly past the fingertip, it will be sturdy because there is no square edge
to break off. Any pressure on the tip will be reflected directly back to the
nail plate, its strongest area.
Round
The round nail (ROWND NAYL) should be slightly tapered and usually
extend just a bit past the fingertip.
oval
The oval nail (OH-vul NAYL) is a conservative shape thought to be
attractive on most hands. It is similar to a squoval nail, with corners that are
even more rounded.
pointed
The pointed nail (POYNT-ed NAYL) or stiletto nail (stih-LET-toe NAYL)
is tapered and longer than usual to emphasize and enhance the slender
appearance of the hand. Know, however, that this nail shape may be
weaker, may break more easily, and is more difficult to maintain than other
shapes. Rarely are natural nails successful with this nail shape, so they are
usually enhancements.
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CHECK IN
16. Why is a consultation necessary each time a client has a
service in the salon?
17. Why is hand washing so important to perform before and
after each client?
18. Why is it important to know and understand the steps in a
basic manicure?
Outline the Steps in the Application of Nail Polish
Polishing is a very important part of client satisfaction and of the
overall success of the service. It may determine whether a first-time
client returns to you. It is the last step in a manicure and a constant
visual reminder of your work for your clients between visits. When your
dients look at their perfectly polished nails, they will admire your work
and likely return. If the polish is not applied perfectly, they will have a
constant reminder (for a week or more) of a less-than-perfect manicure
and may choose to go elsewhere for their next manicure.
Choose a Nail Color
Many clients will ask for your help when they are choosing a polish color.
Always suggest a shade that complements the client's skin tone: Place
the client's hand on a white towel under your true-color light and then
hold the potential polish colors over the skin on the top of the hand. It
is best to allow clients to make the choice to ensure their satisfaction.
Always have a wide variety of nail polish colors available, including
the appropriate colors for the French manicure polish technique.
The Polish Application
The most successful nail polish application is achieved by applying a total
of four coats. The first, the base coat, is followed by two coats of polish
color and one application of topcoat to give a protective seal. The appli-
cation techniques are the same for all polishes, base coats, and topcoats.
Professional nail technicians practice the three-stroke method.
Apply one light stroke of polish down the middle and one on each side
of the nail. This allows full polish coverage over the entire nail plate.
In addition to an improved appearance, the purpose of applying
multiple layers of product is to improve the longevity and durability of
the polish. By building layer upon layer, you will improve its adhesion
and staying power.
-PERFORM
Procedure 6-4:
Polishing the Nails
ACTIVITY
The Perfect Polish
Practice the three-stroke
polishing technique on
yourself or on another
student. Challenge yourself
by doing a French manicure
polish application.
DID YOU KNOW?
When applying an
iridescent or frosted polish,
you must make sure the
strokes are light and parallel
to the sidewalls of the nail
to avoid shadow lines in the
polish.
HERE'S A TIP
Polish Application
Do not apply polish closely
to the eponychium. Natural
oils from your skin can cause
the polish to lift within a few
days after the application
if the polish is against the
skin.
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Apply thin, even coats for maximum smoothness and minimum
drying time. When you have completed the polish application, the
nail should look smooth, evenly polished, and shiny.
CHECK IN
19. Why is the polish application important?
20. How many coats of polish should be applied to the nails,
and what are the coats called?
21. Why should you use a topcoat?
Describe How to Approach a
Man's Manicure Service
A man's manicure is performed using the same procedures as
described in the basic manicure. Depending on your client's
preference, you may omit the colored polish and/or buff the
nails with a high-shine buffer.
Most men tend to go longer between services and will
need a little more work on their nails and skin.
Men's Nail Shapes
Men usually prefer their nails shorter than women do. Round
nails, which are closest to their natural appearance, are the
most common choice for male clients. Some men, however,
prefer their nails very short, with only a small amount of free
edge that is shaped according to the base of the nail plate.
(Figure 6-23).
Men's Massage
Most clients enjoy the massage portion of the manicure and
want a longer one! Always check with your client on the pres-
sure and firmness of the massage. Remember you are not
licensed to perform a deep, sports-like massage.
Men's Color Selection
While some men will prefer buffed nails, or a clear coating,
other men will prefer polish and enhancements (Figure 6-24).
Always be sure to discuss preferences during the client
consultation.
▲ FIGURE 6-23 Round nails—the nail
shape most men choose.
▲ FIGURE 6-24 Some men prefer a
colored polish application instead of a clear
gloss polish.
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Always ask if he would like to make a future appointment and
suggest a pedicure with the manicure.
CHECK IN
22. What is the most popular nail shape for men and why?
23. What is the alternative to polishing a man's nails with clear
Polish?
Demonstrate the Massage Techniques for the Nail Professional
Massage (muh-SAHZ) is the manipulation of the soft tissues of the body.
It is an ancient therapeutic treatment with many benefits: It promotes
circulation of the blood and lymph, relaxes the muscles, and offers relief
from pain. A hand and arm massage is a special service that can be
offered with all manicures and can be performed on most clients.
A massage is one of the client's highest priorities during the mani-
cure and is often the most memorable part of the manicure. Most cli-
ents look forward to its soothing and relaxing effects. The massage
manipulations should be executed with rhythmic, long, and smooth
movements; the technician should always have one hand on the client's
arm or hand during the movements and the transitions between them.
Hand and arm massages are said to be optional during a basic mani-
cure and in the shorter express or demonstration manicures. However,
at least some massage needs to be designed into the protocol because
the relaxation instilled by that portion of the service may be what brings
the client back for a more upscale manicure.
Pre-Massage Considerations
Before performing a service that includes a hand and/or arm massage,
consult the client's consultation or intake form. During the consultation,
acknowledge and discuss any medical condition that your client has
listed that may be contraindicated for a massage. If your client has not
discussed massage with their physician, encourage them to do so.
Many clients who have high blood pressure (hypertension), diabetes,
or circulatory conditions may still have a hand and/or arm massage with-
out concern, especially if their condition is stabilized and they are being
treated by a physician. Hand and/or arm massage is, however, contraindi-
cated for clients with severe, uncontrolled hypertension. Avoid perform-
ing vigorous or strong massage techniques on clients who have arthritis.
Do not talk to your client during the massage except to ask once
whether your touch should be more or less firm. Talking eliminates the
relaxation therapy of the massage.
DID YOU KNOW?
If your client opts out of a
polish or enhancement ser-
vice, you can give a longer
Massage.
HERE'S A TIP
Before performing a hand
and arm massage routine,
make sure that you are
sitting in a comfortable
position and not stretching
or leaning forward toward
your customer. Your pos-
ture should be correct and
relaxed and your feet parallel and flat on the floor.
Sitting or working in an
uncomfortable or strained
position can cause back,
neck, and shoulder injuries.
CAUTION!
In a few states, a nail technology license does not
permit you to perform a
hand or foot massage. Be
guided by your instructor
concerning your state's
mandatory requirements
and procedures for mas-
sage during nail services.
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HERE'S A TIP
Firm, gentle, slow, and
rhythmic movements in a
predictable routine are the
key to a relaxing massage.
Moving quickly sends the
message to the client that
you are hurrying to get
the massage over and do
not care about providing a
good service.
CAUTION!
The pressure and manipulation of the tissues
and muscles vary with
each type of movement.
Remember, the purpose
of massage during a
manicure is to induce
relaxation. For that reason,
effleurage is the move-
ment that nail profession-
als should perfect, vary,
and expertly use in ser
vices; the others should be
used less and with gentle
care. Effleurage is relaxing
and calming and meets
the overall purpose of
massage in manicures and
Pedicures.
When making decisions about whether to perform a massage on a
person who has a medical condition, be conservative. When in doubt,
don't include massage as part of your service.
General Movements for Massage
In general, massage is a series of movements performed on the human
body that, in combination, produce relaxation or treatment.
The following massage movements are usually combined to
complete a massage:
1. Effleurage (ef-loo-RAHZ) is a succession of strokes in which the
hands glide over an area of the body with varying degrees of
pressure or contact. This is a relaxing movement for your client.
2. Pétrissage (PEH-treh-sahzh), or kneading, is lifting, squeezing, and
pressing the tissue.
3. Tapotement (tah-POTE-ment) is a rapid tapping or striking motion
of the hands against the skin.
4. Vibration (vy-BRAY-shun) is a continuous trembling or shaking move
ment applied by the hand without leaving contact with the skin.
5. Friction (FRIK-shun) incorporates various strokes that manipulate or
press one layer of tissue over another. The hands are placed around
the arm, with the fingers pointing in opposite directions, and are
then gently twisted in opposite directions on the arm, as one would
wring out a washcloth. Perform the movement up and down the
forearm, sliding to the new position three to five times (Figure 6-25).
In the traditional manicure, the massage is performed after the
basic manicure procedures, just before the polish application. After
▲ FIGURE 6-25 Friction massage movement.
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performing a massage, it is essential that the nail plate be thoroughly
cleaned to ensure that it is free from any residue such as oil, cream,
wax, or lotion. You can use alcohol, acetone, or nail polish remover to
perform this task; however, remember that these products can have a
drying effect on the cuticles. Be sure to finish by applying cuticle oil
after the polish has dried or is cured.
CHECK IN
24. What is massage?
25. Before performing a hand or arm massage on a client what
should you do?
26. Which massage movement should you perfect and is the
most relaxing to the client for a hand and arm massage?
Compare the Process of a Spa
Manicure and a Basic Manicure
Spa manicures, a step beyond basic manicures with added specialty
techniques and skin treatments, are fast becoming much-requested
and desired salon services; however, they do require more advanced
techniques than basic manicures. Nail professionals who advance their
education and knowledge of spa manicures and their specialized techniques will not only make their clients happy, but their manicures will be
very lucrative as well.
True spa manicures encompass extensive knowledge of nail care
as well as skin care. Many spa manicures are exceptionally pamper-
ing, while others target specific results through the use of advanced
skin care-based methods. Most include a relaxing massage, and all
contain some form of exfoliation for polishing and smoothing the
skin as well as enhancing the penetration of professional products.
Spa manicures designed for relaxation may be given unique and
distinctive names that describe the treatment. For example, the rose
garden manicure may incorporate the use of rose oils in the products
and rose petals for ambiance.
Results-oriented spa manicures, sometimes called treatment
manicures, may have names that closely represent their purpose: The
anti-aging manicure may include the use of an alpha hydroxy acid-
based product for exfoliation and skin rejuvenation; a scrub manicure
may exfoliate callused skin or remove dry skin cells. Many may have
more imaginative names, such as spot-be-gone, for lightening age
spots. Treatment manicures require further training to produce safe
and obvious results.
Many clients now base their cosmetic and service decisions on life-
style choices. These clients will seek out spas and nail salons that offer
PERFORM-
Procedure 6-5:
Hand and Arm Massage
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▲ FIGURE 6-26 All-natural products are products made from only
natural resources.
manicures to meet their personal requirements; they may ask about the
products you are using before making an appointment.
Some clients may ask for products that are chemical-free; others
will insist on all-natural products (Figure 6-26). To attract this clien-
tele, you must be prepared to provide products that will meet their
requirements and to describe the products and their benefits.
Despite what product marketing implies, few truly all-natural prod-
ucts are commercially available because of their short shelf life. None
are chemical-free because even air and water contain chemicals! When
faced with clients who feel strongly about their beliefs-whether or
not their information is based on truth-know your product line and
its claims, offer the information to your clients, and then allow them to
make an informed decision concerning their service or home care.
Additional techniques that may be incorporated into a spa mani-
cure include aromatic paraffin treatments; hand masks; a warm stone
massage, and warm, moist towel applications. When performing any
advanced procedures that include oils or cosmetics, always check with
your client regarding aroma preferences and allergies.
Theme Manicures
Many salons and spas have developed services based on themes. The
entire service contains products that support the chosen theme: from
lotions to oils to masks. Some salons even serve refreshments during
the service that supports the theme.
Examples might include the hot cocoa manicure and pedicure for a
holiday or Valentine's Day theme, or the pumpkin spice manicure and
pedicure in the fall. The names and themes of these services are limited
only by your imagination. Let yours go wild and have fun developing
these well-received manicures and pedicures.
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The Waterless Manicure
Waterless manicures eliminate soaking the nails in water; some nail
technicians use lotion and heated mitts instead to soften the skin and
cuticles. Many clients prefer this manicure and believe it is more relaxing
and produces better results than the traditional water manicure. Many
technicians prefer it because it's faster, more sanitary, more convenient
and lasts longer because you are not applying the polish to nails that
have been saturated with water and have expanded. Waterless manicures also eliminate the need for water in remote places when it is
inconvenient or unavailable as in mobile spa situations. All manicures
(basic, spa, scrub, etc.) can be performed using the dry manicure tech-
niques. The dry manicure is covered in Procedure 9-1: Dry Manicure or
Nail Preparation for Enhancements.
CHECK IN
27. What is the difference between a basic manicure and a spa
manicure?
28. Name four additional techniques that can be incorporated
into a spa manicure.
29. What manicures can be performed using dry manicure
techniques?
Identify the Benefits and Infection Control Practices of Paraffin Wax Treatments
Paraffin (PAYR-uh-fin) wax treatments are designed to trap moisture in
the skin while the heat encourages skin pores to accept its benefits.
The heat from the warm paraffin increases blood circulation to the skin.
This is considered a luxurious add-on service and can be safely per-
formed on most clients. Be certain to examine the client's intake form
during the client consultation to identify any contraindications to wax or
the heat involved.
Paraffin Application Cautions
Read and follow all operating instructions that come with your paraffin
heating unit and keep these cautions in mind:
• Avoid paraffin treatments on clients who have impaired circulation or
skin irritations such as cuts, burns, rashes, warts, or eczema.
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• Senior citizens and chronically ill clients may be more sensitive to
heat because of medications or thinning of the skin. Ask these clients
to bring a written physician's permission prior to having a paraffin
treatment.
• A test for heat tolerance is performed on all clients the first time they
have the service. Drop a patch of wax about 1" (2.5 cm) in diameter
on the client's skin to see if the temperatures can be tolerated.
Paraffin Application
Because of infection control concerns, dipping a client's hands into the
paraffin tub puts your client at risk for infection. There are many ways to
safely apply paraffin to your client's hands.
• Plastic bag application. Put about a half cup of paraffin into a thin
plastic bag. Insert the client's hand into the bag. Move the wax
around the hand through the bag, covering the surface.
• Cheesecloth or paper towels application. While wearing
gloves, dip each paper towel or cheesecloth into the paraffin.
Hold it by the corners and then raise it up out of the paraffin and
let it drip. Do this three times. Now, press each piece of cheese-
cloth or paper towel around the hand. Next, cover the client's
hand with a plastic cover or plastic wrap. Place the client's hand
in a warm, moist towel or an electric heat mitt (Figure 6-27). Do
the same thing to the other hand.
▲ FIGURE 6-27 Place the client's hand in a warm mitt.
• Spray paraffin. Paraffin is sprayed on the hands with special
equipment. The client's hand is placed in plastic mitts or plastic
wrap and then inserted into warm, moist towels or electric mitts.
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One-time use gloves. Purchase one-time-use commercial
gloves that have paraffin encased in them and heat. Insert
the client's hands; the paraffin then heats to become a paraffin mitt. Follow the manufacturer's directions.
• Painted-on paraffin. Remove the wax to be used and
place it in a small glass bowl. Using a disposable brush,
brush the paraffin onto the hands. Next, cover the cli-
ent's hands with a plastic cover or plastic wrap. Place the
client's hand in a warm, moist towel or an electric heat
mitt. Do the same thing to the other hand (Figure 6-28).
STATE REGULATORY ALERT
Once paraffin wax is used on a client it becomes contaminated and must never be reused!
Before a Manicure
Performing a paraffin wax treatment before a manicure has
advantages:
• It allows the client to have their nails polished immediately
at the end of the manicure service.
• It is a way to soften rough or callused skin.
The biggest disadvantage to performing a paraffin treatment before
a service is that it cannot be used to hold moisture in the skin through
its application over lotions and masks during the treatment section of
the manicure.
During a Manicure
Many salons and spas have developed manicures that include
specialized and additional treatments, such as paraffin wax over a
mask or lotion, that are performed after the massage and before
polishing.
Stand-Alone Service
Many clients enjoy a paraffin treatment: They like the way it makes their
skin feel. You can include this service on the menu with its own price.
The benefits must be marketed for the service to be desired. For exam-
ple, the heat provides pain relief for those with arthritis. And when the
temperature is cold outside, many clients remember the warm feeling
the paraffin provides. Encourage your clients to book an appointment or
drop in for a dip.
CAUTION!
When performing a
paraffin treatment, only
use the equipment that is
designed specifically for
this use. Never heat the
wax in anything other than
the proper equipment.
This can be very dangerous and may result in
painful skin burns or a fire.
▲ FIGURE 6-28 Painted-on paraffin is a
safe option for your clients.
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CHECK IN
30. List four alternatives to dipping when applying paraffin
Wax.
31. Why is dipping the hands in the paraffin wax not the best
Option?
32. Name those groups who are not good candidates for
paraffin wax treatments.
Describe Approaches to Personal
Manicures that Are Sensitive
to Clients with Special Health
Considerations
When you enter your career as a Nail Technician you may encounter
clients with special health considerations.
During the consultation, ask your client if there are any health
concerns you should know about before performing a manicure.
Your clients are not under any obligation to disclose anything about
themselves and they may omit some information about their medica-
tions. Assure clients that information they share is kept confidential
and will be used to provide the most effective service. Remember,
you are not a medical professional and salons are not bound by
HIPAA (Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act
of 1996) however, keeping client information confidential
is the most ethical practice.
Many clients, regardless of age, have medical con-
siderations. For example, you may encounter clients with
limited mobility, involuntary movement, altered vision,
painful joints, and caregivers. You may even have a client
in active chemotherapy or radiation. All clients who come
to you for a service should be treated with care and consideration of their abilities. Listed below are some examples of special considerations and how to accommodate
your client's needs.
• Limited mobility clients. If a client enters your establishment using an aid for limited mobility, make sure to move any obstructions or tripping hazards, clearing all
rugs or mats from the floors (Figure 6-29).
▲ FIGURE 6-29 Remove any floor
obstructions for clients with limited mobility.
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▲ FIGURE 6-30 If your client experiences involuntary hand movement, be sure
to fully support the fore-arm to the elbow.
• Clients who experience involuntary movement. When greeting
a client, you may notice that they have tremors or involuntary
movement. If your client has tremors or involuntary movement
it is typically an indicator of neurological issue. Roll up a hand
towel and support the entire fore-arm from the elbow to the palm
(Figure 6-30).
• Clients with altered vision. You may have clients come in who have
altered vision and need assistance choosing a nail color. When
assisting these clients be clear and describe each color to them with
examples. It is better to approach picking a color by asking how they
want to be seen. So, instead of saying, "we have ten shades of red
to choose from" try asking, "Are you looking for a bright red that
stands out in a crowd, or a more subtle red that won't be immediately noticed?"
• Clients with painful joints. There are many reasons a client may
have painful joints, the most well-known reason being arthritis. If a
client comes in and mentions painful joints during the client consultation, handle them gently, never applying pressure directly on
the joints. Do not manipulate the joints during the massage por-
tion of the service. Gently smooth the lotion on the client's skin
applying gentle pressure. Always check with your client through-
out the service to make sure they are not in any pain.
• Clients with caregivers. You may have a client come in who has a
caregiver. Always make room for the caregiver and accept any assistance that they offer to provide.
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• Clients with lowered immunity. As long as you follow strict infections control practices, as described in Chapter 5 of Milady Stan-
dard Foundations, a client with lowered immunity should be safe in
your establishment.
Tools and Implements
When performing manicure services on clients with health considerations, do not use any sharp tool or implements. Depending on your cli-
ent, they may have thinner skin, difficulty clotting, or a lowered immune
system. A small nick on the skin for these clients can quickly lead to a
need for intervention by a medical professional. Do not nip the cuticles.
It is better to use a curette to gently remove nonliving tissue from the
nail plate. Be sure to use a fine grit abrasive on the nails.
When clipping your client's nails, use care. Always look underneath
the nails before clipping as there can be skin that is attached to the center
of the nail. Simply cutting nails straight across can cut the skin underneath.
Paraffin
If performing paraffin services, keep in mind that some clients may be
more sensitive to heat due to a loss of sensation in the extremities. Let
the wax cool longer before applying it to the hands.
Massage
Before beginning a massage on any client, always ask permission, and
if there are any concerns about receiving a massage. For instance when
massaging clients with health considerations use a more gentle pres-
sure, as needed. The purpose is not to move joints, muscles, or blood
flow, but to provide a soothing touch and rhythm. Do not bend or flex
hands, fingers, or wrists. When applying lotion to your client's hands
and arms at the end of a service, begin just below the elbow and gently smooth the lotion toward the hands. The lotion application on the
hands should be to moisturize the skin.
CHECK IN
33. Why should sharp tools be avoided when working on
clients with health complications?
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Procedure 6-1
Pre-Service Procedure
Equipment, Implements, and Materials List
EQUIPMENT
Manicure Table
Adjustable Lamp
Chair
Finger bowl (optional)
Disinfection Container
Client's Arm Cushion
Service Cushion
Disposable wipe
Container
Covered Trash
Container
Supply Tray
IMPLEMENTS
Metal Pusher
Nail Nippers
Tweezers
Nail Clippers
Brushes and Applicators
Wooden Pusher
Nail Brushes
Disposable Product
Application Brushes
MATERIALS
Gloves
Dust Mask
Abrasive Nail Files and
Buffers
Single-Use or Terry Cloth
Towels
Lint-Free wipes, Gauze,
Cotton Balls, Pledgets, or
Plastic-Backed Pads
Plastic, Wooden, or Metal
Spatulas
PRODUCTS
Any products needed for
upcoming service
A. Infection Control
1 Refer to Procedure 5-2: Cleaning and Disinfection Nonporous, Reusable Items in Milady Standard Foundations.
B. Basic Table Setup
2 Before you begin a service, clean and disinfect the
manicure table and drawer with an EPA-approved
disinfectant, according to the directions on the
product label.
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(Continued)
3. Position a cushion or a folded towel on the edge of the
table in front of the client.
4. Next, place a lint-free disposable cloth on the table. This
cloth can be replaced as needed throughout the service.
5. Place the abrasives and buffers of your choice on the
table to your right (or to the left, if you are left-handed).
HERE'S A TIP
If you're not immediately starting your service, wrap your
files neatly in a towel to keep them free of dust and potential
contaminants.
6. Set out your tools and implements.
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7. If using a finger bowl, fill it with warm water and place
it on the left or right of your table. Place the manicure
brush next to the finger bowl.
8. Make sure you have a trash receptacle with a self-
closing lid available for disposing of used materials
during your service.
9. Place the supplies and products needed for your service
to the right if you are right-handed, and to the left if you
are left-handed.
C. Greet the Client
10. Greet your client with a smile, introduce yourself if
you've never met. Ask for the consultation card/sheet
they filled out if they are a new client.
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(Continued)
11 Escort your client to the hand-washing area. Hand
your client a fresh nail brush and ask them to wash
their hands. Have paper towels or a fresh laundered
towel available for your client to dry their hands.
12 Show your client to your manicure table and make
sure they are comfortable before beginning the
service.
13 Discuss the information on the consultation card and
determine a course of action for the service.
14 Wash your hands following Procedure 5-1: Proper
Hand Washing in Milady Standard Foundations
before beginning any service.
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Procedure 6-2
Post-Service Procedure
Equipment, Implements, and Materials List
EQUIPMENT
Disinfection Container
Covered Trash Container
MATERIALS
Gloves
PRODUCTS
Products for client recommendations
A. Advise Clients and Promote Products
1 Advise the client of proper home maintenance. That will
ensure the client's nails look beautiful until they return
for their next service. Suggest retail products that help
maintain the client's service. There may be a number of
retail products that you could recommend for the client
to take home. Explain why these products are important
and how to use them.
B. Schedule the Next Appointment and Thank the Client
2 Thank the client for their business and mention that you
will be looking forward to their next visit.
(Continues)
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(Continued)
SALON
3. Escort the client to the front desk to schedule their next
appointment and to pay for the service. Set up the date,
time, and services.
4. Record service information, products used, observations,
and retail recommendations on the client service form or
input via a computer record.
C. Prepare the Work Area and Implements
for the Next Client
5. Remove your products and tools, dispose of all used
materials, and then clean and disinfect your work area.
6. Refer to Procedure 5-2: Cleaning and Disinfecting
Nonporous, Reusable Items in Milady Standard
Foundation.
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Procedure 6-3
Performing a Basic Manicure
Implements and Materials
You will need these basic materials on your manicuring table:
Gloves
Finger bowl
Client's arm cushion
or folded towel
Service cushion
Gauze and cotton wipe
container
Trash containers
Supply tray (optional)
Ultraviolet or electric nail
polish dryer (optional)
Electric hand/foot mitts (optional)
Terry cloth mitts (optional)
Wooden pusher
Abrasive nail files and buffers
Disposable or cloth towels
Polish remover
Nail creams, lotions, and
penetrating nail oils
Cuticle removers
Nail bleach
Colored polish, enamel,
lacquer, or varnish
Base coat
Nail hardener
Topcoat
Nail polish dryers
Hand creams and lotions
Preparation
Refer to Procedure 6-1: Pre-Service Procedure.
Procedure
1 Remove polish and inspect the client's nails. Saturate
a cotton ball, gauze pad, or plastic-backed cotton pad
with polish remover. Begin with the little finger of your
client's left hand. Hold the saturated cotton on each nail for
approximately 10 seconds. You can remove the old polish
easily from the nail plate with a downward stroking motion,
moving toward the free edge. Continue until all traces
of polish are gone. Look closely at the nails to check for
abnormalities that could have been hidden by the polish.
2 File and shape the nails based on the client
consultation. Start with the little finger on the left hand,
holding it between your thumb and index finger. Use a
medium-grit abrasive to shape the natural nail. File from
one side to the center of the free edge and then from
the other side to the center of the free edge. Never use a
sawing back-and-forth motion when filing the natural nail,
as this can disrupt the nail plate layers and cause splitting
and peeling.
(Continues)
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3. Soften the eponychium and cuticle. After filing the
nails on the left hand, and before moving on to the right
hand, place the fingertips of the left hand in the finger
bowl to soak and soften the eponychium (the living skin
on the posterior and sides of the nail) and cuticle (the
dead tissue adhered to the nail plate) while filing the
nails on the right hand, using the same little finger to
thumb process.
4. Clean the nail surfaces. Remove the left hand from the
finger bowl after you file the right hand and brush the
nails with a nail brush. Holding the left hand above the
finger bowl, brush the fingers with your wet nail brush to
remove any debris from the fingertips. Use downward
strokes, starting at the first knuckle and brushing toward
the free edge.
5. Dry the hands with a towel designated as this
client's service towel. As you dry, gently push back the
eponychium with the towel. Now place the right hand
into the finger bowl to soak while you continue with the
next step on the left hand.
6. Apply cuticle remover. Using a cotton-tipped wooden
or metal pusher or cotton swab, apply cuticle remover
to the cuticle on each nail plate of the left hand. Do not
apply this type of product on living skin, as it can cause
dryness or irritation. Spread evenly on the nail plate.
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7. Use your wooden pusher or the inside curve of a
metal pusher to gently push and lift cuticle tissue
from each nail plate of the left hand. After allowing the
cuticle remover to set on the nail for the manufacturer's
recommended length of time, the cuticle will be easily
removed from the nail plate.
8. Use sharp nippers to remove any loosely hanging tags
of dead skin. Never rip or tear the cuticle tags or the
living skin because this may lead to infection.
9. Carefully clean under the free edge, using a cotton
swab or cotton-tipped wooden pusher. Be gentle,
as cleaning too aggressively in this area can break
the hyponychium seal under the free edge and cause
onycholysis.
10. Brush the left hand with the nail brush over the finger bowl one last time to remove bits of
debris and traces of cuticle remover. When both hands are complete, send the client to the
sink to wash the nail plate with a nail brush. It is important that all traces of cuticle remover are
washed from the skin, as remnants can lead to dryness and/or irritation. Instruct the client to rest the left hand on the table towel.
11. Repeat steps 5 to 10 on the other hand.
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12. Optional: Bleach the nails. If the client's nails are
yellow, you can bleach them with a nail bleach product
designed specifically for this purpose. Apply the
bleaching agent to the yellowed nail with a cotton-
tipped orangewood stick. Be careful not to apply
bleach on your client's skin, because it may cause
irritation. Wear gloves while bleaching the nails. Repeat
the application if the nails are extremely yellow. These
products work best for surface stains (e.g., tobacco).
13. Smooth the nail surface. Use a buffer to smooth out
surface scratches and give the natural nail a brilliant
shine.
14. Apply nail oil. Apply nail oil to each nail plate, using
a cotton-tipped wooden pusher, a cotton swab, or
an eyedropper. Start with the little finger on the left
hand and massage oil into the nail plate and the
surrounding skin, using a circular motion.
15. Remove any rough spots on the free edges. Bevel
the underside of the nail by holding a medium-grit
abrasive board at a 45-degree angle to the underside
of the nail and file with a gentle side-to-side stroke.
This removes any rough edges or cuticle particles.
A fine-grit abrasive board or buffer may be preferred
for weak nails.
16. Massage. Apply massage lotion or oil and follow the massage Procedure 6-5.
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17. Remove all traces of lotion or oil from the nail
plate after the massage and before polishing, or
the polish will not adhere well. Use a small piece
of cotton saturated with alcohol, acetone, or polish
remover as though you were removing a stubborn
red nail polish. Do not forget to clean under the
free edge of the nail plate to remove any remaining
massage lotion.
18. Choose a polish. Most clients should have chosen their polish already (before or during the
consultation), but if they have not, ask them to choose a color.
19. Apply a base coat. Apply a base coat to keep the
polish from staining the nails and to help colored
polish adhere to the nail plate. Nail strengthener/
hardener is an option you may recommend for a
treatment if the client's nail plates are thin and weak.
Apply this before the base coat if the client requests
this treatment. See Procedure 6-4: Polishing the
Nails.
20. You've performed a beautiful, finished manicure. Now perform Procedure 6-2: Post-Service Procedure.
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Procedure 6-4
Polishing the Nails
Implements and Materials
In addition to the basic materials on your manicuring table, you will need the following supplies for
polishing the nails:
Base coat
Colored nail polish
Topcoat
Drying product (optional)
Preparation
Complete Procedure 6-3: Performing a Basic Manicure.
Before applying polish, ask your client to put on any jewelry and outerwear that they may have taken
off before the service. They should also get their car keys ready for easy retrieval (if they have them); this
will prevent smudging to the freshly applied polish. If possible, also have the client pay for services at this
time or have payment ready to hand to the receptionist.
Procedure
Apply a thin layer of base coat on the entire plate of
the nails on the dominant hand. Place the nails in a cool
nail dryer while you polish the other hand. This will give
the most-used hand a head start in drying and reduce
the likelihood of smudging.
Apply the first coat of polish on the first hand. When
applying color nail polish, remove the brush from the
bottle and wipe the side of the brush away from you on the
inside of the lip of the bottle to remove excess polish. You
should have a bead of polish on the brush large enough
to apply one layer to the entire nail plate without having to
re-dip the brush (unless the nail plate is unusually long or
large). Hold the brush at approximately a 30- to 35-degree
angle. Place the tip of the brush on the nail, 1/8" (0.31 cm)
away from the cuticle area in the center of the nail. Lightly
press the brush onto the nail plate, producing a slight
fanning of the brush, and then push the brush toward the
eponychium to produce a rounded posterior edge to the
polish. Leave a tiny, rounded area of unpolished nail at
the back of the nail. Pull the brush toward the free edge
of the nail, down the center.
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Move to each side of the nail and pull in even strokes
toward the nail tip. This first color coat does not have to
be perfect, it just has to establish the correct outline and
cover the entire nail with some polish.
Cap the free edge. After finishing the first coat of each
nail, move the brush back and forth on the very end of
the free edge, barely touching it, to apply color. This is
called tip sealing, or capping, and it reduces chipping
and layering on the free edges.
Apply the second coat of color to the first hand. With the second coat, do not fan the brush or reapply to the tip. Just start at the base of the polish curve and move toward the free edge. Apply a thin, even coating on the nail that has depth of color and perfect appearance.
6. Apply a topcoat to prevent chipping and to give nails a glossy, finished appearance. Be sure to coat the free edge of the nail with the topcoat as well.
7. If you use a polish-drying product or fast dry topcoat,
apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions.
8. After the application, ask the client to take a seat at a
separate table with their hands under a nail dryer or seat
the client comfortably away from your table. The drying
time should be 10 minutes, at a minimum, for traditional
polish. To apply gel polish, follow the instructions of the
manufacturer.
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Procedure 6-5
Hand and Arm Massage
Implements and Materials
In addition to the basic materials on your manicuring table, you will need the following supplies for the
hand and arm massage:
Massage lotion, oil, or cream
Preparation
Complete Procedure 6-3: Performing a Basic Manicure.
Procedure for Hand Massage
To prepare, apply the massage lotion, oil, or cream to the client's arm. Apply enough to allow movement
across the skin without resistance (such resistance is known as skin drag). Skin drag is not comfortable for
the client.
Be sure to hold the client's hand and arm loosely without too much restraint during the massage.
Relaxer movement of the wrist. At the beginning of
the hand massage, place the client's elbow on a cushion
covered with a clean towel or on a rolled towel. With
one hand, brace the client's arm in the wrist area with
your nondominant hand. With your other hand, hold the
client's wrist and bend it slowly and gently-but with a
firm touch-fully back until it stops, and then forward
until it stops, 5 to 10 times, until you feel that the client
has relaxed.
Joint movement of fingers. Lower the client's arm,
brace the arm at the wrist with the left hand, and with
your right hand (or dominant hand) start with the little
finger, holding it at the base of the nail. Gently rotate
fingers to form circles. Work toward the thumb, about
three to five times on each finger.
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3 Circular movement on the palm. This light stroking
motion that relaxes and soothes is known as effleurage.
Place the client's elbow on the cushion or towel near the
center of the table and position your elbows on the table
at the sides of it. Put your thumbs in the client's palm and
rotate them in a circular motion up the center and over to
and down the sides, moving in opposite directions. The
circular movements should start from the bottom center
of the hand and move out, up, across the underside of
the fingers, and back down to the bottom and center-
in a smooth pattern of alternating movements of each
thumb over the palm. This pattern becomes rhythmic
and relaxing. Effleurage movements must be smooth
and gentle, even predictable, to induce relaxation. After
performing the relaxation movements, move on to the
following effleurage movements.
4 Circular movement on the wrist. This is a form of
friction massage movement that is a deep rubbing
action. It is very stimulating. Hold the client's hand with
both of your hands, placing your thumbs on top of the
client's hand and your fingers below. Move your thumbs
in a circular movement in opposite directions from the
client's wrist to the knuckle on the back of the client's
hand. Move up and down, three to five times.
5 The final time you rotate up, wring the client's wrist by
bracing your hands around the wrist and gently twisting
in the opposite directions. This concludes the hand
massage usually performed in the Basic Manicure.
(Continues)
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Arm Massage Techniques
Preparation: Distribute lotion or cream. Apply lotion or cream to the client's arm.
6 Effleurage of the arm. Holding the wrist firmly but
gently, glide your hand up the arm from the wrist to the
elbow with your palm and fingers on the skin, make sure
there is enough lotion on the skin to allow a smooth
glide of the hand. Cup your movement fingers around
the arm, moving up with slight pressure on the skin with
your fingers, thumb, and palm to induce relaxation, and
then move back to the wrist area with a lighter pressure
on the skin. Perform this gliding several times. When
finishing a movement each time at the top of the arm,
rotate the hand to the underside of the arm while pulling
the hand back toward you. Now move to the underside
of the arm and perform the same movement. Press
forward; at the end, release the pressure, gently rotate
the hand to the top of the arm, and pull it lightly back
toward the hand.
7 Friction movement on the arms. A friction massage
involves rubbing the muscles against each other. Put
the client's arm on the table, palm up with fingers
toward you. Your fingers should be underneath the arm,
stabilizing it. Rotate your thumbs in opposite directions,
starting at the client's wrist and working toward the
elbow. When you reach the elbow, slide your hand down
the client's arm to the wrist and rotate back up to the
elbow three to five times. Turn the client's arm over and
repeat three to five times on the top side of the arm.
8 Wringing/friction movement. Place the arm horizontally
on the towel in front of you, with the back of the hand
facing up. Place your hands around the arm with your
fingers facing the same direction on the arm and gently
twist in opposite directions, as you would wring out a
washcloth, from the wrist to the elbow. Do this up and
down the forearm three to five times.
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9 Kneading movement. Kneading (pétrissage) is a
squeezing motion that moves flesh and muscles over
the bones beneath in opposite directions, stimulating
and increasing blood flow. Place your thumbs on the
top side of the client's arm so that they are horizontal.
Move them in opposite directions, from wrist to
elbow and back down to the wrist. Do this three to
five times.
10 Rotation of elbow. This is a friction massage
movement. Brace the client's arm with your left hand
and apply lotion. Cup the elbow with your right hand
and rotate your hand over the client's elbow. Do this
three to five times. Take care to be very gentle and
not to hit the nerve in the elbow that often is referred
to as the funny bone this can be very painful to the
client. To finish the elbow massage, move your left
arm to the top of the client's forearm.
11 Finger pulls. Gently slide both hands down the
forearm from the elbow to the fingertips, as if
climbing down a rope. Then, holding the hand with
your nondominant hand, move to the finger tip. With
your thumb on top and your pointer finger arched
below, gently grab and pull the finger down to the
tips. Perform on each finger, from the little finger to
the thumb. Perform the movement down the forearm
and do finger pulls three to five times on each arm
and hand before performing the final movement
below. Understand that this movement should not be
performed on clients who have severe arthritis.
12 Final movement. After you've performed the finger
pulls, lay both of the client's hands palm down on the
table, cover them with your own hands (palm down), and
gently press them three times. Gently lift your palms,
leaving your fingertips on the base of the hand. Then,
with a light-as-a-feather touch, pull your fingers from the
back of the hands down the fingers and off the tips of the
fingers. Perform two to three times. This final movement,
called feathering off, is the end of the massage.
HERE'S A TIP
When more cream, oil, or lotion is needed during the massage, always
leave one hand on the client's hand or arm and retrieve more product
with the other hand. Having your product in a pump container facilitates
this important massage technique.
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