Fashion as response to artistic expression (1)
Fashion as a Form of Artistic and Creative Expression
John Galliano
Biography
Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano Guillén (born 28 November 1960)
British fashion designer; graduated from Central St. Martin’s in 1984 with a collection inspired by the French Revolution.
Awarded British Designer of the Year in 1987, 1994, and 1995.
Design Philosophy
Identifies love of theatre and femininity as central to his creations.
Clientele
Notable clients include Kylie Minogue, Madonna, Princess Diana, Charlize Theron, and Nicole Kidman.
Produces six couture and ready-to-wear collections annually, plus a mid-season range called "G Galliano."
Significant Partnerships
In 1993, introduced to Portuguese socialite Sao Schlumberger, who provided financial backing and high society credibility for his fashion house.
This partnership marked a significant 'fashion moment' and development of Galliano's brand in Paris.
Fashion Impact
His work shifted from traditional prêt-a-porter to resemble haute couture, attracting younger customers.
Emphasized quality materials and techniques traditionally used in couture on a smaller scale.
Became the first British designer to lead a French haute couture house when appointed designer of Givenchy in July 1995.
Manish Arora
Biography
Indian fashion designer based in New Delhi, established a label in 1997.
Presents collections at London Fashion Week since 2005 and at Paris Fashion Week since Autumn–Winter 2007–08.
Design Style
Often described as "the John Galliano of India;" known for psychedelic colors and kitsch motifs.
Combines traditional Indian crafts (embroidery, appliqué, beading) with Western silhouettes.
Global Presence
Operates five flagship stores in Delhi and Mumbai; available in 84 stores worldwide.
Collaborated with Reebok on the "Fish Fry" line and with Swatch watches.
Issey Miyake
Biography
Born 22 April 1938; survived the atomic bombing of Hiroshima as a child.
Known for technology-driven designs in clothing, exhibitions, and fragrances; studied at Tama Art University, graduating in 1964.
Innovations
Pioneered garment pleating in the late 1980s, allowing ease of care and flexibility.
Created a technique where garments were pleated after being sewn, retaining their shapes due to the fabric's 'memory'.
Product Lines
'Pleats Please' Issey Miyake series features pleated garments.
'me Issey Miyake' offers one-size shirts that stretch to fit the wearer, packed in plastic tubes.
Also known for watches and a line of fragrances for men and women.
Michael Aram
Biography
U.S. artist known for metalwork; inspired by nature and traditional crafts.
Lives primarily in India, where he creates functional art.
Design Philosophy
Focus on eco-inspired designs while collaborating with local artisans.
Crafts with recyclable materials such as aluminum and stainless steel, emphasizing efficiency and conservation.
Art Techniques
Each piece is handmade, reflecting unique design and craftsmanship.
Workshops set up both in New York and New Delhi, highlighting traditional skills and modern design.
Missoni
Brand Overview
Founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni in 1953, known for colorful knitwear and unique designs.
Private company headquartered in Milan, Italy; has a range of fabrics including wool, cotton, and silk.
Product Lines
'M Missoni' launched in 1998; offers accessible knitwear to a broader audience.
Missoni Home collection began in 1981, extending the brand into home furnishings featuring their vibrant patterns.
Rei Kawakubo
Biography
Born 11 October 1942 in Tokyo; founded Comme des Garçons.
Untrained in design, studied fine arts and literature, and started as a freelance stylist.
Established her design company in 1973 and opened a boutique in 1975.
Fashion Approach
Renowned for unconventional designs that challenge beauty norms; often described as 'anti-fashion'.
Famous for deconstructed garments and radical silhouettes, format that reflects deep conceptual rigor.
Innovations
Gained fame in 1981 with Paris presentation; collections often dominated by black, characterized by asymmetry and unfinished edges.
Eley Kishimoto
Overview
UK-based fashion and design company founded in the 1990s by Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto.
Specialized in print design; provides women's wear and accessories; collaborates with well-known fashion houses.
Industry Contributions
Created diverse products beyond fashion, including wallpaper, furniture, and automotive design.
Christian Dior
Biography
Born in 1905 in Granville, France; established himself as a leading designer post-World War II.
His first collection, "Corolle" (1947), introduced the revolutionary 'New Look'.
Fashion Innovations
The 'New Look' emphasized a curvaceous silhouette, using fabrics like satin and velvet.
Notably used embellishments like embroidery and tucks to enhance the luxurious quality of his designs.
Legacy
Dior shaped women's fashion, influencing designers for decades beyond his life (died in 1957).
Jean Paul Gaultier
Biography
Born in 1952 in Arcueil, France; worked with Pierre Cardin and gained prominence in the late '70s.
Known for avant-garde collections like the 'James Bond' (1979) and 'High-Tech' collection.
Notable Works
Known for his designs that turned underwear into outerwear, famously dressing Madonna.
Launched first haute couture collection in 1997.
Pierre Cardin
Biography
Born in 1922 in Venice, Italy; worked under notable designers before launching his own label.
Pioneered styles such as unisex fashion and utilized unconventional materials like plastic and vinyl.
Contributions to Fashion
Opened the first Western couture boutique in China and identified new body shapes through innovative seam techniques.
Ralph Lauren
Biography
Born in 1939 in New York; founded the Polo label in 1967.
Known for high-quality menswear and the iconic Polo brand, becoming a pioneer in American fashion.
Impactful Products
Released the famous short-sleeve Polo shirt (1972) and a range of lifestyle products including eyewear and home collections.
Gabrielle “Coco Chanel”
Biography
Born in 1883 in Saumur, France; revolutionized women's fashion through comfort and style.
Established her brand with accessories and clothing that emphasized simplicity and elegance.
Key Contributions
Created the 'Little Black Dress,' symbolizing modern femininity; laid the groundwork for casual chic.
Known for utilizing materials like jersey and introduced luxury, timeless designs.