Chapter 16
Why Study Haircoloring?
One of the most creative and lucrative salon services is haircoloring. It allows individuals to express their uniqueness, cover graying hair, create fashion statements, and correct unwanted tones due to environmental factors.
Haircolor (one word): refers to artificial products and services.
Hair color (two words): refers to natural color. For example, Mrs. Bailey’s natural hair color is brown; her haircolor is auburn.
Clients will turn to you for expert advice regarding haircolor, requiring a thorough understanding of hair structure and the impact of haircoloring products.
Reasons for stylists to study haircoloring:
Knowledge of strong chemical ingredients in haircolor products enables safer service provision.
Provides creative expression for stylists and clients.
Clients seek suggestions on techniques that enhance their features.
Continuous client need for haircoloring translates to long-term clientele.
Haircolor services significantly enhance client loyalty.
Hair Color and Structure
Understanding your client’s hair color and structure is vital for achieving the desired results. Knowledge of how hair structure influences the quality of haircolor services can inform product choices.
Natural Hair Color: Varies from black to light blonde, with unique contributing pigments.
Hair Structure: Comprised of:
Cuticle: Outermost layer; contributes 20% to overall strength.
Cortex: Provides strength and contains melanin.
Medulla: Innermost layer with uncertain function.
Hair Texture: Refers to the diameter of hair strands.
Fine: Quickly absorbs color, looks darker.
Medium: Average reaction to color.
Coarse: Takes longer to process color.
Hair Density: Number of hairs per square inch. Impactful for color application to ensure full coverage.
Hair Porosity: Hair's ability to absorb moisture, influencing how quickly it accepts color:
Low porosity: Tight cuticle; needs more processing time.
Average porosity: Slightly raised cuticle; processes normally.
High porosity: Cuticle is lifted; color penetrates easily but may fade quickly.
Hair Levels and Tones
Understanding color science and the level system (1-10) is crucial for achieving artistic haircolor results. Haircolor charts aid in formulating color and consulting clients.
Color Theory
Color theory establishes the law of color and illustrates color relationships using a color wheel:
Primary Colors: Red, yellow, blue.
Secondary Colors: Green, orange, violet.
Complementary Colors: Opposite colors on the wheel (e.g., blue and orange).
Types of Haircolor
Haircolor products are categorized into:
Temporary: Sits on hair surface; no developer; lasts 1-3 shampoos.
Semipermanent: Lasts 3-8 shampoos; no developer used.
Demipermanent: Lasts 12-24 shampoos; can lift or blend gray.
Permanent: Alters existing color; provides total gray coverage.
Natural-Based and Metallic Haircolors: Typically not used in salons.
Haircolor Application Processes
Ensure efficient haircolor application:
Application Tools: Use bowl-and-brush or applicator bottle as needed.
Patch Tests: Always perform prior to services.
Different Techniques: Temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent, single-process, and double-process methodologies.
Highlighting Techniques
Highlighting can create dimensionality in hair through various methods, including foiling, balayage, and color melting, each producing unique results.
Addressing Gray Hair
Gray hair requires special techniques for effective coverage, necessitating attention to areas of density and percentages of gray present in the hair.
Problem Solving in Haircolor
When issues arise in haircolor outcomes:
Stay calm, identify the problem, establish a potential solution, and never guarantee an exact result.
Special Considerations for Hair Types
Different hair types (e.g., textured, red, brunette, blonde) present unique challenges—adapt techniques and products accordingly to achieve desired outcomes effectively.