Comprehensive Study Guide for Textiles and Clothing: CXC Secondary Education Standards

Definition of Fiber: The basic unit of all textiles; a fine, hair-like strand that can be spun into yarn and made into fabric.
Natural Fibers: * Vegetable (Cellulosic) Fibers: Derived from plant sources. The chemical composition is primarily cellulose, represented by the formula $(C_6H_{10}O_5)_n$ . * Cotton: Harvested from the boll of the cotton plant ( $Gossypium$ ). Lengths vary from $1.5\,cm$ to $6\,cm$ . * Linen: Derived from the stalk of the flax plant. Fibers are longer and stronger than cotton. * Animal (Protein) Fibers: Derived from animal hair or secretions. * Wool: Obtained from sheep's fleece. It contains keratin. Fibers have a natural crimp and scales. * Silk: A continuous filament secreted by the silkworm ( $Bombyx\,mori$ ) to form its cocoon. It is the only natural filament fiber, reaching lengths of $300\,m$ to $900\,m$ .
Man-Made Fibers: * Regenerated Fibers: Natural materials (like wood pulp or cotton linters) that are chemically processed. * Rayon (Viscose): The first man-made fiber, often called "artificial silk." * Acetate: Heat-sensitive fiber made from cellulose acetate. * Synthetic Fibers: Made entirely from chemical substances, primarily petrochemicals. * Nylon (Polyamide): Known for high strength and elasticity. * Polyester: Known for crease resistance and durability. * Acrylic: Used as a substitute for wool.

Cotton Properties: * High absorbency (hydrophilic). * Good heat conductor (cool to wear). * Stronger when wet (increase of approx. $25\,\%$ strength). * Low elasticity, wrinkles easily. * Safe ironing temperature: approx. $204\,^\circ\text{C}$ .
Polyester Properties: * Low absorbency (hydrophobic). * Dries quickly. * High crease resistance. * Thermoplastic (melts under high heat).
The Burning Test (Identification): * Cellulosic (Cotton/Linen): Burns quickly with a yellow flame; smells like burning paper; leaves a fine, light gray ash. * Protein (Wool/Silk): Burns slowly and may self-extinguish; smells like burning hair; leaves a brittle, black bead. * Synthetics (Nylon/Polyester): Shrinks from flame, melts and drips; smells like chemicals or celery (nylon)/sweet (polyester); leaves a hard, uncrushable black bead.

Weaving: The interlacing of two sets of yarns at right angles ( $90^\circ$ ). * Warp: The lengthwise yarns held under tension on the loom. * Weft (Woof): The crosswise yarns that pass over and under the warp. * Selvedge: The finished edge of the fabric that prevents fraying. * Types of Weaves: 1. Plain Weave: The simplest over-one, under-one structure (e.g., Calico, Gingham). 2. Twill Weave: Creates a diagonal rib on the surface; very strong (e.g., Denim, Drill). 3. Satin Weave: Long "floats" of yarn over the surface, creating high luster and smoothness.
Knitting: The process of interlocking loops of yarn using needles. * Weft Knitting: Loops are formed across the width (e.g., T-shirts, sweaters). It can unravel easily if a stitch is dropped. * Warp Knitting: Loops are formed vertically; more stable and ladder-resistant (e.g., Tricot).
Non-Woven Fabrics: * Felting: Applying heat, moisture, and friction to wool fibers to interlock the scales. * Bonding: Using adhesives or heat to join fibers together into a web (e.g., interfacing).

Aesthetic Finishes: Alter the appearance or feel. * Brushing/Napping: Raising the fiber ends to create a fuzzy surface (e.g., Flannelette). * Embossing: Pressing a pattern into the fabric using heated rollers. * Mercerization: Treating cotton with caustic soda to increase luster, strength, and dye affinity.
Functional Finishes: Improve the performance of the fabric. * Sanforization: A mechanical process that pre-shrinks fabric to less than $1\,\%$ residual shrinkage. * Flame Retardant: Chemical treatment to reduce the speed of ignition and burning. * Crease Resistance: Application of resins to help fabrics (especially cotton/linen) resist wrinkling. * Water Repellent: Coating fibers with silicones or waxes to make the fabric resist water penetration while remaining breathable.

Elements of Design: * Line: Can be vertical (height, slimness), horizontal (width, rest), or diagonal (action). * Shape/Silhouette: The outline of the garment (e.g., A-line, hourglass, tubular, bell). * Texture: The surface quality (tactile and visual). * Color: Defined by Hue (name), Value (lightness/darkness), and Intensity (brightness/dullness).
Principles of Design: * Balance: Symmetrical (formal) or Asymmetrical (informal). * Proportion: The relationship of one part to another (e.g., the ratio of a bodice to a skirt). * Emphasis: The focal point of the garment (e.g., a bright collar or a decorative belt). * Rhythm: The repetition of elements to create a feeling of movement. * Unity/Harmony: When all elements and principles work together for a pleasing effect.

Stitches: * Temporary: Even Basting, Uneven Basting, Tailor’s Tacks (used for marking). * Permanent: Running stitch, Backstitch (for strength), Overcasting (to prevent fraying).
Seams: * Plain Seam: The standard seam joining two pieces of fabric. * French Seam: A self-neatening seam within a seam, used on sheer or delicate fabrics. * Flat-fell (Machine-felled) Seam: A very strong, flat seam used on jeans and sports shirts.
Control of Fullness: * Darts: Triangular folds of fabric used to shape a garment to the curves of the body (e.g., bust darts). * Gathers: Small, even folds created by pulling thread on two rows of long stitches. * Pleats: Folds in fabric held in place by stitching at the top (e.g., knife pleats, box pleats).
Openings and Closures: * Zippers: Concealed, semi-concealed, or exposed. * Facings: Used to finish raw edges at necklines or armholes. * Fasteners: Buttons and buttonholes, hooks and eyes, snaps (press studs), and hook-and-loop tape (Velcro).

Labels: Must include fiber content, size, and care instructions (international symbols).
Stain Removal: * Blood: Soak in cold water (hot water sets the protein). * Grease: Use a degreasing agent or detergent. * Ink: Dab with methylated spirits or alcohol.
Ironing and Pressing: * Ironing: Moving the iron back and forth to remove wrinkles. * Pressing: Lifting the iron and placing it down firmly on the fabric to flatten seams.