Cosmetic Raw Materials-Cosmetic Delivery Systems
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COSMETIC RAW MATERIALS
Presented by Juste Baranauskaite-Ortasoz (Ph.D.)
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS
Purpose of cosmetics: Alter natural coloring (e.g., ruby lips, brown eyes).
Ingredients used for colors:
Mineral: Iron oxide, mica flakes, manganese, chromium oxide, coal tar.
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS
Natural colors:
From plants (e.g., beet powder).
From animals (e.g., cochineal insect; known as carmine in cosmetics).
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS
Pigment Categories: a) Organic: Carbon-based molecules.b) Inorganic: Generally metal oxides (metal + oxygen).
Inorganic pigments are natural mineral compounds, not synthetic or unnatural.
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS (ORGANIC PIGMENTS)
Common types:
Lake pigments: Dyes combined with aluminum hydroxide; insoluble in water for water-resistant cosmetics.
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS (ORGANIC PIGMENTS)
Toners: Produced by precipitating water-soluble dye as metal salt (sodium, calcium, barium, strontium).
Used for dilution, intensity reduction, or changing transparency (using barium sulfate, talc, rosin).
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS (INORGANIC PIGMENTS)
Inorganic pigments:
Duller than organic pigments but offer better heat/light resistance, ensuring longer-lasting colors.
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS (INORGANIC PIGMENTS)
Iron oxide (FeO…): Yellows, reds, blacks. Blending creates browns/natural skin tones.
Chromium oxide: Provides green pigments; safe for external use but prohibited in lip products due to ingestion risks.
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS (INORGANIC PIGMENTS)
Ultramarine: Derived from lapis lazuli; provides blue color (Na8-10Al6Si6O24S2-4).
Changes in valence state of sulfur yield pink/purple shades; not allowed in lip products.
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS (INORGANIC PIGMENTS)
Ammonium manganese (III) pyrophosphate provides deep purple color.
Iron blue (Prussian blue): Made by oxidizing iron cyanide salts, early synthetic pigment; deep blue color; not allowed in lip products.
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS (INORGANIC PIGMENTS)
Titanium oxide (TiO2): Two forms used, anatase and rutile; both are white pigments.
Rutile: higher refractive index providing a pearly shine.
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COLOURING AGENTS/PIGMENTS (INORGANIC PIGMENTS)
Zinc oxide (ZnO): Creates white pigments; also provides sun protection by reflecting/scattering UV radiation.
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GLIMMER AND SHINE
Shimmering effects from materials like mica and bismuth oxychloride.
Cosmetic mica (muscovite) comes from flaky sheets, crushed into fine powders.
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GLIMMER AND SHINE
Tiny particles in powder refract light, creating shimmer.
Mica coated with titanium dioxide appears whitish but iridescent from angles.
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GLIMMER AND SHINE
Bismuth oxychloride (BiClO): Creates silver-grey pearly effect.
Often produced synthetically despite being naturally occurring.
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FRAGRANCES
Smell significantly influences consumer decisions about cosmetic use.
Both natural and synthetic chemicals are added for appealing fragrances; even 'unscented' products may contain masking agents.
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FRAGRANCES
"Fragrance" on labels can represent many unlisted chemical compounds.
Constitutes a trade secret, so detailed listings are not required.
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FRAGRANCES
Over 3,000 chemicals are utilized in global fragrance formulation.
A list of safe ingredients is published by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA).
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REFERENCES
Includes sources like articles from Euro Journals and various researchers related to cosmetic chemistry.
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COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS
Delivery systems encapsulate active compounds for targeted action sites.
Common components: anti-aging compounds, UV filters, fragrances.
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COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS
Key Properties:
Stability of active compounds, protection against sunlight/air.
Controlled release of compounds, improving penetration properties.
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COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS
Additional properties include improved tolerability, aesthetics, and masking of undesirable properties ( color/odor).
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COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS
Common systems: a) Vesicular (liposomes, niosomes).b) Emulsion (microemulsions, nanoemulsions).c) Particulate systems (microparticles, nanoparticles, solid lipid nanoparticles, cyclodextrin complexes).
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Composition: Aqueous cavity surrounded by phospholipid bilayer. Diameter ranges from 25 to 5000 nm.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Components included: drug molecules, phospholipids, cholesterol.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Advantages of liposomes:
Encapsulate both hydrophilic/hydrophobic substances.
Improve absorption of active ingredients through the skin.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Example: Liu et al., co-encapsulated lipophilic UV filter avobenzone and hydrophilic whitening agent arbutin.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Permeation studies:
Arbutin permeated deeper, while avobenzone remained at the surface.
Achieved targeting for skin whitening and sun protection.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Mota et al. explored OMC encapsulation in liposomes; showed no irritation and enhanced SPF.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Results indicated lyposomes improved stability and absorption of OMC, enhancing sunscreen efficacy.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Effectiveness with astaxanthin as an anti-aging agent; light/thermal stability improved through encapsulation.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Innovation: Two-step delivery system incorporated ceramide liposomes into cellulose hydrogel for enhanced permeation of antioxidants.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Findings: Rutin had better encapsulation and release properties compared to quercetin.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Skin permeability of quercetin/rutin enhanced with the delivery system compared to controls.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (LIPOSOMES)
Table: Marketed formulations of liposomes and their uses.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NIOSOMES)
Similar to liposomes but prepared from non-ionic surfactants; lower toxicity/irritation.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NIOSOMES)
Advantages: More stability, ease of release, improve bioavailability of poorly absorbable compounds.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NIOSOMES)
Tavano et al.: Developed niosomal formulations with antioxidants demonstrating enhanced delivery and oxidative stress reduction.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NIOSOMES)
Results supported improvements in antioxidant delivery and reduction of free radical damage.
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VESICULAR DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NIOSOMES)
Table of marketed formulations and their uses, including Lancome and Identik products.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MICROEMULSIONS)
Stable dispersions of oil/water (<100 nm) created with surfactants.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MICROEMULSIONS)
Non-ionic surfactants preferred; co-surfactants enhance interfacial fluidity.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MICROEMULSIONS)
Active solubilized for rapid absorption; easy manufacturing and transparency are benefits.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MICROEMULSIONS)
Preferred for moisturizing formulations due to effective aesthetic appearance and user experience.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MICROEMULSIONS)
Used for enhancing pigmentation and anti-aging with vitamin E in microemulsions.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MICROEMULSIONS)
Incorporated benzotriazoles for photo-protective efficacy; prevents UV damage.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MICROEMULSIONS)
New multifunctional silicone quaternary polymer provides conditioning and protection.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MULTIPLE EMULSIONS)
Encapsulating droplets within globules; W/O/W and O/W/O types presented.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MULTIPLE EMULSIONS)
W/O/W systems suitable for controlled active delivery; stability can be a challenge.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MULTIPLE EMULSIONS)
Requires dual surfactants for stability; primary and secondary emulsifiers necessary.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MULTIPLE EMULSIONS)
Stable by forming polymeric gel to prevent emulsion breakdown.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MULTIPLE EMULSIONS)
Two hypotheses for substance transport from emulsions explained.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MULTIPLE EMULSIONS)
Diffusion through oily membranes relies on various factors, including viscosity and particle size.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (MULTIPLE EMULSIONS)
Useful for developing sustained-release products, enhancing stability of sensitive ingredients.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NANOEMULSIONS)
Fine oil-in-water dispersions (<100 nm); fragile and metastable.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NANOEMULSIONS)
Hydrating power leads to better skin feel and improvements in hair appearance with prolonged use.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NANOEMULSIONS)
Suitable for various formulations; non-toxic and effective drug delivery methods.
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EMULSION DELIVERY SYSTEMS (NANOEMULSIONS)
Table of marketed formulations of nanoemulsions with various uses.
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PARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Includes microparticulates, porous polymer systems, nanoparticles, and cyclodextrin complexes.
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MICROPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Solid polymeric particles (0.1–1000 µm): used for reducing active odours and preventing oxidation.
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MICROPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Nylon microspheres improve feel and skin adhesion in cosmetic formulations.
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MICROPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Microparticles can function as delivery systems for antioxidants like vitamin E, ensuring skin benefit.
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POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS (MICROSPONGES)
Utilizing open porous structure for sustained ingredient activity; programmed release possible.
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POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS (MICROSPONGES)
Microsponges can be activated through skin contact, temperature changes, or solvents.
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POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS (MICROSPONGES)
Controlled active release ensures minimal systemic absorption, reducing toxicity.
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POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS (MICROSPONGES)
Significant reduction in undesirable properties; prolongs shelf-life without preservatives.
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POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS (MICROSPONGES)
Examples include melanosponge for sun protection and anti-acne formulations reducing irritation.
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POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS (MICROSPONGES)
Improved safety and efficacy demonstrated in various skin treatment products.
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POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS (MICROSPONGES)
Reduced allergenic reactions when insensitizing ingredients are encapsulated.
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NANOPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Include nanospheres and nanocapsules; defined as submicron colloidal systems (0.003–1 µm).
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NANOPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Polymer basis is similar; includes biodegradable and modified natural polymers.
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NANOPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Different active incorporation methods and composite behavior of releases are noted.
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NANOPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Designed for water-based products ensuring long-lasting contact on the skin.
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NANOPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Surface modifications enhance adhesion and retention on the body despite wash-off effects.
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NANOPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Delivery technology improves adhesion of functional ingredients for sustained release of fragrances.
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NANOPARTICULATE SYSTEMS
Table of marketed formulations featuring nanospheres with product uses highlighted.
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SOLID LIPID NANOPARTICLES
Composed of hydrophobic cores surrounded by phospholipid layers; advantages over polymeric systems.
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SOLID LIPID NANOPARTICLES
Better stability than liposomes due to solid cores; preventing leakage of active molecules.
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SOLID LIPID NANOPARTICLES
Can increase skin hydration and show UV-blocking potential for sun protection.
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SOLID LIPID NANOPARTICLES
Effective occlusive properties based on particle size lead to improved skin hydration.
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SOLID LIPID NANOPARTICLES
Investigated as both physical sunscreens and carriers for molecular sunscreens.
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SOLID LIPID NANOPARTICLES
Marketed formulations of solid lipid nanoparticles listed, showcasing varied applications.
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CYCLODEXTRIN (CDs) COMPLEXES
Stabilizes active ingredients against degradation and improves skin compatibility.
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CYCLODEXTRIN COMPLEXES
Masks unpleasant odors in cosmetic formulations; essential for fragrance solutions.
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CYCLODEXTRIN COMPLEXES
Enhances the stability of polyunsaturated fatty acids, effectively managing acne issues.
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REFERENCES
Various academic sources and studies supporting cosmetic delivery systems in the industry.