Independent Watchmaking Notes

Independent Watchmaking: An Incredible Day With Czech Watchmaker Ondřej Berkus

Introduction

The article is based on a personal visit to Ondřej Berkus, a self-taught Czech watchmaker.
The author aims to provide an intimate look into Berkus's life and motivations, rather than a typical Q&A or discussion of watchmaking philosophy.

Off to Czechia

The author describes the journey to Czechia, noting the flat landscape in contrast to the Austrian mountains.
The destination is the workshop of Ondřej Berkus, described as a "watchmaking wizard."

How We Got Here

The visit was initially planned for October 8 but was moved earlier based on the advice of @aguy2watch.
@aguy2watch emphasized the unique opportunity to see many finished watches assembled in one place.
The author had previously met @aguy2watch and @watchcph, who both spoke highly of Ondřej Berkus.
The meeting was arranged to understand Berkus's watchmaking philosophy and explore potential future projects.
Berkus was exceptionally welcoming and agreed to clear his schedule for the visit.

First Impressions

The author travels to northeastern Czechia, near the Polish border.
Ondřej Berkus is described as a "petrolhead" with a love for fast cars, especially Alfa Romeos.
Berkus plans to acquire a Giulia Quadrifoglio and have it tuned for extreme performance.
Berkus celebrates life with a "why the fuck not?" attitude.
He balances his passions with responsibility towards his wife.

Materialistic Targets

Berkus has several materialistic goals:
1. A large two-car garage with a bar and couches, which he refers to as a "mancave."
2. A proper workshop.
3. A stable for his horses with space to train them for reining competitions.
Once these goals are met, passion will dictate his projects, without financial pressure.
He acknowledges a long waiting list for his watches (past 2035 or 2040).
He expects some people to drop off the waiting list due to life circumstances or changing interests.
He desires clients who are patient and understanding.
Freedom from corporate constraints and rigid timetables is crucial to him.

Watchmaking Magic

Upon arriving at the workshop, the author is offered coffee.
@aguy2watch encourages the author to examine all the watches.
Six Ondřej Berkus creations are presented, including @aguy2watch's one-second remontoir.
These watches were part of a trip to the US to hand-deliver them to clients.

Complications and the Central Tourbillon

The watches feature innovative complications like remontoir, sonnerie au passage, chronograph, retrograding date, and power reserve.
The newly-completed central tourbillon stands out.
The tourbillon's design is inspired by the idea of a watch made by an ancient, technically advanced civilization.
It is housed in a 38mm case made of silver and copper Mokume-game, a Japanese metalworking technique that creates a wood grain pattern.
The dial is crafted from a curved piece of blued meteorite, forming a toroidal ring around the central tourbillon.
Dart-shaped hour markers represent light being sucked into a black hole, symbolizing the event horizon.
A hand-bent steel hand with a 0.15mm clearance above the meteorite indicates the hours, while minutes are inferred from shorter hashes.
The caseback features an intricate engraving depicting an Aztec in a spaceship looking at a stepped pyramid on a screen, with another screen showing a space traveler being attacked by a Godzilla-esque monster.
@aguy2watch suggests engraving the crown with a relief matching the caseback.
The rim of the balance wheel and the hours hand are lumed.

Digging Deeper Into the Workshop, Part 1

Ondřej discusses the parts he sources from suppliers, maintaining transparency.
He orders sapphire crystals, Incabloc shock absorbers, jewel bearings, gaskets, and rough-machined cases.
He intends to make his own springs eventually, similar to the Breguet pare-chute system.
The rough cases require significant work on the lathe to achieve the desired finish.
Everything else is made in his workshop.
Ondřej shows his "dream diary," filled with sketches of future projects.
He uses irreverent titles for his projects, contrasting with the mainstream watch industry's self-important naming conventions.
He has a tourbillon escapement named the BFT.
One fully realized concept is a chronograph with two escapements: a tourbillon for timekeeping and a 5Hz escapement for the chronograph, similar to the Zenith Defy El Primero 21.
The author asks if the double escapement chronograph can fit into a rectangular case with a spherical moonphase.

Dial Materials & The "Berkus" Touch

The group discusses various dial materials.
Ondřej offers @aguy2watch a piece of mammoth tusk as inspiration.
Mammoth tusk can be polished to a mirror shine, resembling grand feu enamel.
@aguy2watch values the "Berkus" touch.
The "Berkus" touch is described as something intangible yet undeniable, connecting all his watches despite their differences.
Ondřej considers himself an alchemist, transforming materials into something remarkable.
He uses materials like Damascus steel, Mokume-gane, tantalum, and blued titanium in unique ways.
He applies a frosted finish to a steel case flank.
The feeling one gets when handling the watches is unique.
Ondřej has a house style: sub-40mm watches in cushion cases with minimalist bezels, laser-etched subdials, retrogrades, and a remontoir.

Gem Setting and Technical Design

Ondřej is open to gem setting but wants to do it in a unique way, such as using baguette-cut sapphires.
@aguy2watch questions whether gem-setting fits the Berkus brand.
The author suggests a moonphase made of a solid sphere of sapphire, which intrigues Ondřej and @aguy2watch.
Ondřej uses AutoCAD software for technical design and fine-tuning mechanisms.
He learns by doing, visualizing movements in his head before machining.
He shows the interaction of a snail cam, program wheel, and toothed rack for a retrograding date in a perpetual calendar movement.
He shows a five-year-old sketch of the "Black Hole Tourbillon," which he was now able to realize due to his improved skills, including the use of Mokume-game.
Ondřej has a fully realized vision for each project.
A jumping hours window was planned for the "Black Hole Tourbillon" but was simplified in the first version.

Digging Deeper Into the Workshop, Part 2

Ondřej expresses his dislike for bad weather, showing his direct and candid personality.
His watches reflect his personality.
He estimates that a simple time-only watch takes three weeks to complete, working eight hours a day (which he rarely does due to distractions).
The central tourbillon takes two months to complete.
He explains the increased complexity and precision required for tourbillon movements.
He has four tourbillon watches ahead of him in 2023.
He had not realized the reasoning behind my answer of time needed until explaining.
In the second room of the workshop, Ondřej operates lathes and performs machining.
He collects gold shavings for his goldsmith to melt down and subtract from his bill but doesn't do the same for brass due to its low material cost.

Surreal Success

Ondřej expresses disbelief at how he has reached the point of crafting and delivering unique watches.
He is still processing the overwhelming response to his work, which has gained momentum since late 2021.
The author prepares to leave for the train station.

Closing Thoughts

The conversation returns to cars.
Ondřej is asked about expanding his business and team.
He would like a finisseur to handle the repetitive finishing work, as his passion lies in machining.
He is hesitant to hire employees due to the responsibility of providing for them and their families.
He would only hire if he had the financial cushion to do so.
He expresses his belief in karma and doing good, expecting that someone is looking out for him.
The author believes in Ondřej's sincerity and looks forward to returning to his workshop.
Thanks are given to Ondřej and his wife for their hospitality.