Comprehensive Textile Technology and Fiber Classification Notes
Fundamental Textile Terminologies
A Fiber is defined as hair-like structures that can be twisted together to form yarns. These are categorized based on their length: short fibers are referred to as staple fibers, while long fibers are known as filament fibers. A Yarn consists of thread spun together that can be used for the purposes of weaving, knitting, or sewing. Cloth, which is another name for fabric, refers to woven or felted material. In the context of textile composition, Fibre Blends are fabrics containing two different fiber contents within the yarns themselves. This differs from a Fibre mixture, which refers to fabrics that have yarn of one fiber content on the warp and yarn of a different fiber content on the weft; an example of this is a mixture of Rayon and wool. Micro Fibers are classified as extremely fine fibers that are less than thick.
Terminology also extends to how fibers are named and identified. A Generic name is the designation given to a group of related fibers. A fiber that is not unique or does not possess a brand name is also considered a generic fiber. Conversely, a Trade Name is a registered brand name for fibers or the specific name given to man-made fibers by their manufacturers. When discussing the nature of materials, Textile Properties are traits or qualities that are not necessarily specific to a particular textile, whereas Textile Characteristics are the distinguishing features specific to a particular textile that help in its identification.
Importance and Scope of Textile
Textile is traditionally referred to as woven fabric and is utilized for a variety of reasons. In the modern context, fabrics constructed through other methods, such as knits, felts, laces, braids, and nets, are also classified under the name textile. Beyond serving as the primary material in garment construction, textiles are widely used for soft furniture, accessories, and various products within the food industry, transportation sector, and medical facilities.
Classification of Textile Fibres
Textile fibres are classified or grouped according to their source (where they originate) or according to their length. When grouped by source, they are divided into Natural Fibres and Manmade Fibres. Natural Fibres are spinnable substances existing in nature and are subdivided into three categories: Vegetable (including Cotton and Jute), Mineral (including Asbestos and Glass), and Animal (including Silk and Wool). Manmade Fibres are spinnable substances manufactured by men using chemical processes and are subdivided into Regenerated fibres (such as Viscose Rayon and Acetate Rayon) and Synthetic fibres (such as Nylon and Polyester).
Methods for Identifying Fibres and Fabrics
Identifying the fiber content of various fabrics is essential to determine the correct care and usage for the material. Identification methods are divided into preliminary and confirmatory tests. Preliminary tests include Visual inspection, where the appearance of the fabric is used for distinction; Tactile inspection, where the texture is used; and Burning, where the flame, burning behavior, smoke, and residue are observed. Confirmatory tests include Microscopic analysis, as different fibres possess unique physical structures, and Chemical solubility, where dissolving fibres in specific chemicals reveals defining characteristics.
Flame Test Identification Chart
The burning characteristics of various fibers provide specific data for identification. Cotton does not shrink from the flame; it lights up on contact and burns quickly with a yellow flame. It emits an odor like burning paper and leaves a charcoal grey ash residue. Upon removal from the flame, it continues burning and has an afterglow. Linen similarly does not shrink from the flame and lights up on contact, burning quickly with a yellow flame. Its odor is like burning paper, and it leaves a light, feathery ash, charcoal grey in color. It continues burning and has an afterglow after removal. Wool curls away from the flame and burns slowly without flaring up. It emits an odor like burning hair and leaves brittle, small black beads as residue; it is self-extinguishing upon removal. Silk also curls away from the flame, burns slowly, and sputters. It smells like burning hair and leaves crushable small black beads; it is usually self-extinguishing.
Rayon behaves similarly to plant fibers, as it does not shrink from the flame and lights up on contact. It flares up, burns quickly, and smells like burning paper, leaving a light fluffy grey ash. It continues burning and has an afterglow once removed. Acetate fuses and melts away from the flame, lighting up quickly. It flares up and burns quickly with an odor like hot vinegar. The residue consists of irregular-shaped, hard black beads, and it continues to burn rapidly after removal. Nylon melts and shrinks away from the flame, burning slowly. It emits an odor compared to celery and leaves a hard, tough residue. Nylon is self-extinguishing upon removal.
Yarn Construction and Metrics
Yarn is defined as fibres twisted together to form a continuous strand. The measurement of yarn includes the Count, which is the mass per unit length of the yarn, and the Denier, which is the mass per . Regarding composition, a Mixture is a fabric utilizing two or more different yarns during the weaving process, while Blends occur when different fibres are spun together into a single yarn before weaving.
Yarns are classified into types: Simple (also known as single or 1ply) yarns are even in size and consist of a single strand of twisted fibres, creating smooth and uniform fabric. Plied yarns (such as 2ply or 3ply) consist of more than one single yarn twisted together, with the number of yarns determining the ply. Complex or novelty yarns create fabrics that are not smooth or uniform, differing in twist, size, and effect. Chord or cabled yarns are plied yarns that have been twisted together.
Fabric Construction Terms and Navigation
In woven fabrics, the Warp refers to the yarns that run vertically, while the Weft refers to the yarns that run horizontally. Grey (or greige) refers to unfinished woven fabric that has not yet been dyed or bleached. The Selvedge is the self-neatened edge of the fabric resulting from the construction process. A Rib causes fabric to appear heavier on one side and lighter on the other based on the weave pattern. The Bias refers to a diagonal cut or direction in a woven piece of fabric at a angle from the warp or weft. In knitted fabrics, the Course is defined as the vertical column of stitches, and the Wale is defined as the horizontal row of yarns. Purl is a specific type of stitch used in the knitting process.
Specialized Fabric Construction Methods
There are several distinct methods of constructing fabrics. Knitting is a special kind of construction involving the interlacement of loops using specific needles, resulting in a fabric that stretches. Bonding involves the joining of webs or batts of fibre together through the use of an adhesive material. Felting is a process where fibers are pressed together using a combination of moisture, heat, and friction. In weaving, the interaction between the Warp, Weft, and Selvage defines the structure of the resulting textile.