1680-1700 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO Costume part-2

Women's garments remained similar in structure to those of the past 20 years.
Evolving gown styles featured:
- Necklines: Became more square and revealed less bosom, possibly influenced by Madame de Maintenon.
- Corsets: Now prominently visible at the front, heavily decorated, ending in a pronounced V at the waist.
- Stomachers: Separate stomachers were used to vary a dress's appearance.

Skirts were layered and heavy, needing support from whalebone, metal, or basketwork.
Overskirts split at the front and had complex draping with a long back train.
Underskirts decorated with embroidery and ruffles were visible through splits.
- Mantua/Manteau: A new construction method where bodice and skirt were cut as one piece, inspired by Middle Eastern robes.
- The mantua was characterized by fullness in both front and back and could be styled loose for casual wear or pleated for formal events.

Women styled their hair high, with curls at the back and sides.
Wore devices like the fontange in France and commode in England for hair decoration.

Shoe shapes changed, becoming more pointed with higher, narrower heels.
Use of brocades and decorated leathers in shoes was common.
- Pantofles: Heel-less slippers that became particularly fashionable, originally made with cork soles.
Stockings were knitted from wool/silk, often decorated.

Common accessories included:
- Gloves (often scented), handkerchiefs, and purses (beaded or embroidered).
- Fans for women, muffs made of silk or velvet, and face masks for weather protection or modesty.
- Aprons served functional and decorative purposes.

Men wore chains, pendants, and rings; women accessorized with necklaces, earrings, and more.
Pomander balls: Small perfume balls carried by women, named for their shape resembling an apple.

Common use of cosmetics among both genders; perfumes were popular.
Male and female grooming included:
- Lead combs for eyebrows, paints and powders for faces.
- Patches to cover skin blemishes and night masks for skincare.
- Plumpers used by women to give roundness to the cheeks.

Boys' costumes began with swaddling clothes, followed by skirts, robes, and aprons.
Notable distinctions in costumes for children versus adults, especially for young boys:
- Robe: A distinctive garment not worn by adults or girls.
- Shift to adult styles occurred around age 6-7.

Example of garments worn:
- A toddler might wear a padded cap and a pinafore over a skirt.
- Older boys wore petticoat breeches styled like adult male clothing.

Children wore dresses resembling adult styles with specific features (e.g., "ribbons of childhood").

An infant's layette included swaddling bands, caps, and shirts, among others.
- Swaddling: Babies swaddled for the first few months to restrict movement for safety.

A key event during the first year, with christening robes showing continuity with later fashions.
- Example: Charles I's preserved christening vestments included various pieces like a long, embroidered gown.

Infants wore long gowns (carrying frocks), while walking children wore shorter dresses (going frocks).
Evolution of styles included the transition from bibs to decorative aprons and other protective garments.

Teething Rings/Necklaces: Coral often used as teething aids, believed to ward off evil and provide relief during teething.

Illustrations show men’s styles changing from the early to late 17th century, highlighting differing elements such as:
- Trunk Hose and vests, knee-length jackets concealing breeches, and changing shoulder and sleeve styles.

Representations of women’s attire throughout the 17th century illustrate details like skirt shapes, bodice styles, and various embroidery designs.

During the 17th century, trade by the English East India Company largely focused on the Indian subcontinent.

Modern fashion designs (e.g., John Galliano for Dior) reflect influences from 17th-century art and fashion.