Simon Brette Notes

Simon Brette's Chronomètre Artisans Rose is the evolved second release of the Chronomètre Artisans, building upon the original's success.
The watch was showcased at the "House of Craft" event with UBS in New York, attracting significant attention.
Mark Kauzlarich was impressed by Brette's confidence and improved English since their first meeting in March 2023.

The initial Chronomètre Artisans in 2023 generated substantial buzz.
Kauzlarich's initial reaction at Watches and Wonders was overwhelmingly positive, calling it potentially "the best watch of the year."
The watch later won the Horological Revelation Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
Demand for the first 100 titanium pieces was extremely high.

The Rose version features a rose gold case and a gold dial with tremblage-style hand-engraving and a black DLC coating, providing a bolder and more mature aesthetic.
The overall design is more cohesive and legible compared to the original.
The core elements that made the original great, such as the finishing, are retained.
Future versions will explore different case materials and dials.

Brette's workshop has expanded to ten people, operating in the traditional établissage style.
Brette collaborates closely with suppliers to ensure high-quality parts.
Assembly and finishing are executed to a high standard.
Of the selling price of CHF 85,000 (approximately $96,000), CHF 56,100 (approximately $63,000) is dedicated to finishing work, representing 66% of the cost.

The combination of a black dial, rose gold wheels, and a rose gold case enhances the dress watch aesthetic.
Legibility has been improved, with subsidiary seconds at 9:15 and keyless works at 3 o'clock standing out against the black dial.
Silvered bridges holding the gears, with pink gold chatons holding the jewels, provide increased contrast.

The updated movement features rose gold plates and bridges, contrasting with the two barrels (in parallel).
The watch has a 72-hour power reserve.
Components are black-polished to create a swirling effect on the barrels.

The watch includes an S-shaped stop for the balance that hacks the movement when the crown is pulled out.
The balance wheel beats at 18,000 VpH.
The hairspring is shaped with a Breguet terminal curve.
The watch dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 10.3mm thick, with a 45mm lug-to-lug distance and a 20mm lug width.
The rose gold case adds a sense of substantiality.
The case features a screwed-down bezel and case back, providing 30m of water resistance.

The case retains the dovetail joint in white gold on the 9 o'clock side, paying homage to Brette's father's woodworking.
The caseback is engraved.

The black dial is made of rose gold, hand-engraved by Yasmina Anti, and then DLC-coated black.
The engraving combines elements of the souscription's "dragon scales" and the titanium edition's "tiger claws," now called the "Battle" pattern.
The hand-engraved script for "Rose Gold no. X" is located under the balance.
Hands have been enlarged for improved legibility.
The hour hand features a polished silver top edge and angled gold portions to enhance contrast against the black dial.

Simon Brette and his team plan to produce 50 of the Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold over the next four years.
Production capabilities will increase, adding 12 watches per version, reaching 24 for the Rose version and 36 for the next.

While the anglage depth isn't as deep as in the CC2, the watches serve different purposes.
The CC2 is subtle from the front but has an incredible back, whereas the CA is immediately striking.

Brette acknowledges the challenges of being an independent watchmaker, particularly managing success and demand.
With 4,000 people on the mailing list and 1,400 serious inquiries, demand far exceeds the planned production of 200 watches in total (50 in each material).
Brette is wary of watches being sold on the open market or at auction, preferring owners to appreciate and keep their pieces.

Brette recognizes the need to build the brand and manage expectations, acknowledging that mistakes are inevitable.
All CA Rose watches are already allocated.
The initial allocation of souscription pieces to prominent collectors generated early visibility but also skewed perceptions of rarity and accessibility.
Brette notes the high expectations that come with success, emphasizing the importance of quality and having the right team.

Brette admits that the souscription pieces were not profitable and views the current CHF 85,000 price tag as necessary for long-term sustainability.
The increased price supports a larger team and new workshop.

Brette clarifies that production will be limited to 50 pieces per material (rose gold, titanium, steel, and platinum).
Exceeding these numbers would damage his reputation.

Brette notes that 45% of purchase inquiries come from America, citing Hodinkee's coverage.

Simon Brette's success is attributed to his craftsmanship and collaborations with skilled artisans.