Fabric Structure and Design
Fabric Structure and Design Mid-term Content
Types of Fabric Construction
Woven Fabrics:
Consist of two series of threads: warp and weft, interlaced at right angles.
Warp threads run the length of the fabric.
Weft threads run across the width of the fabric.
Selvedge: The edge at each long side of a woven fabric, providing a firm, neat edge finish and a secure grip for finishing machinery.
Pin-holes: Small regular groups of pin-holes can often be seen in a fabric selvedge showing where it was held by the machine pin.
Warp and weft interlace with each other in a similar manner.
Knitted Fabrics:
A textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping of yarns or inter-meshing of loops.
More flexible than woven fabric.
Can be more readily constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal for socks and hats.
Two basic varieties: weft-knit and warp-knit fabric.
Braided Fabrics:
A braid is made by interweaving three or more stands, strips, or lengths in a diagonally overlapping pattern.
One of the major fabrication methods for composite reinforcement structures.
Good elongation characteristics and are very pliable, curving around edges nicely.
Traditionally used as decorative trimmings and functional elastic components in apparel goods.
Used in demanding technical applications, such as for shielding wires from electromagnetic interference or for absorbing very high impactful energy in the form of ropes, fishing lines, parachute cords, etc.
Also used for satisfying fairly modest and less demanding functions in household goods in the form of draw threads for curtains, wash lines, or even the ubiquitous shoelace.
Non-woven Fabrics:
A fabric-like material made from staple fiber (short) and long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment.
The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt, which are neither woven nor knitted.
Sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fiber or filaments (and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally, or chemically.
Flat, porous sheets that are made directly from separate fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film.
Not made by weaving or knitting and do not require converting the fibers to yarn.
Compound Fabrics:
Also known as Double-faced fabrics.
A form of double cloth made of one warp and two sets of wefts, or (less often) two warps and one weft.
These fabrics have two right sides or faces and no wrong side, and include most blankets, satin ribbons, and interlinings.
Physical Specification of Fabrics
Fabric Weight:
A way to measure different textiles.
Determined by the thickness of the threads that make up the material.
Measured in grams per meter (gsm) or ounces per yard (oz).
A higher number means a heavier fabric.
Lightweight fabrics:
1gsm - 150gsm
0.3 oz. - 5 oz
Examples: linen, lace, mesh, chiffon, silk, cotton, PVC, neoprene, felt
Medium weight fabrics:
150gsm - 350gsm
5.29 oz. - 12 oz.
Examples: velvet, taffeta, charmeuse, sateen, chambray, polyester, chino, nylon, jersey cloth
Heavy weight fabrics:
350gsm+
12.34oz.+
Examples: canvas, denim, suede, corduroy, polyester fleece, wool, flannel, tweed
Fabric Density:
The weight per unit volume of the nonwoven fabric ().
Helps explain the thickness of textile products.
Provides the base weight of the fabric, given as a value of grams per square metre.
Wales in Fabric:
In knitting, a wale is a column of loops running lengthwise, corresponding to the warp of woven fabric.
A course is a crosswise row of loops, corresponding to the filling.
Most filling knits can be made by hand or machine, although commercial fabrics are generally machine-made.
Wale Density:
Areal density is the measure of mass per unit area of the fabric.
Knit fabrics with tuck stitches appear thicker than the fabric having only knit stitches due to accumulation of yarns at the tucking places.
Weft Density:
The density refers to the warp and weft density of the fabric.
The number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is the warp density.
The fabric label similar to 60s * 40s refers to warp yarn * weft yarn, which means that the warp direction of the fabric is 60 yarns, while the weft direction is 40 yarns.
Crimp:
Compress(something) into small folds or ridges.
The shortening of yarn length in fabric.
Yarn Crimp% Formula:
Warp Crimp% Formula:
Weft Crimp% Formula:
Fabric Thickness:
Defined as the distance between the two fabric surfaces under a specified applied pressure.
The thickness of any compressible material such as woven fabric, knitted fabric, and the non-woven fabric is defined as the thickness of such kind of material when the fabric specimen is placed between two plane surfaces of incompressible metal.
The specimens are tested under a specified pressure.
GSM (Grams per Square Meter):
Fabric GSM means the weight of one square meter of fabric in grams.
GSM is also written as .
Calculating Fabric GSM by means of instruments:
Apparatus required: Round GSM cutter and GSM Pad, Weighing Balance.
Method:
Cut 5 swatches from the different places of the fabric.
Weight all test swatches accurately and calculate the average weight of swatches.
Multiply the average weight of swatches by 100 to calculate the GSM of the sample fabric.
(Normally, the area of round GSM cutter is 1/100 square meters.)
Cover Factor of Woven Fabric:
Defined as the extent of coverage of yarns in the fabric.
The maximum cover can be a situation in which the yarns touch closely with the adjustment yarns without airspaces.
The cover factor shows how much of the fabric in the direction of warp threads is filled in by the weft threads and vice versa.
A number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one set of threads.
For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor.
Cloth cover factor = Warp cover factor + Weft cover factor – (Warp cover factor × Weft cover factor / 28)
Cover factor,
Relative cloth cover =
= warp cover factor
= weft over factor
Types of Weaves
Plain Weave:
Most simple and most common type of construction
Inexpensive to produce, durable, Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes.
Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and under each weft yarn.
Some examples of plain weave fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin.
Household Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery.
Different types of Fabric Come under this Category:
Chiffon: A very soft and filling plain woven Silk texture consisting of the Finest Singles which are hard twisted and woven in the gum condition. The cloth is afterward degummed.
Georgette: A cotton Crepe fabric made in imitation of silk georgette, with hard twisted warp and weft yarn. A good Cloth is woven plain with right and left twist thread arranged in 2 and 2 order in warp and weft.
Shantung: Coarse Silk fabric with Slubs. Mostly Tussah Silk but can be Polyester, nylon and viscose.
Seersucker: It is created by holding some warp yarns at tight tension, some at slack tension. Those at Slack Tension puff up to form a sort of Blis-ter-effect, often slack and tight yarn of different colour.
Plain weave derivative
Rib Weaves: Rib weaves are usually made by having two or more warp yarns together, inter- lacing as one yarn with the individual weft yarns, or two or more weft yarns together, interlacing as one yarn with individual warp yarns. The groups of yarns interlace in plain weave order with the single yarns. Fabrics with a rib weave are reversible unless one side is made the face by finishing or printing.
Classification of rib weave:
Regular warp rib
Irregular warp rib
Regular weft rib
Irregular weft rib
Difference between warp rib weave and weft rib weave:
Warp Rib Weave
It produces rib or cord effect in the weft direction.
Fiber yarn used as warp and coarser as weft.
The number of ends are more than the number of picks in the unit space.
Warp yarn single yarn and weft yarn bundle yarn.
Two or more weft yarns are passed over or under a warp yarn.
The ends interlace with the picks.
Weft Rib Weave
It produces rib or cord effect in the warp direction.
Finer yarn used as weft and coarser as warp.
The number of picks is more than the number of ends in unit space.
Weft yarn single yarn and warp yarn bundle yarn.
Two or more warp yarn is passed over or under a weft.
The picks interlace with the ends.
Basket Weave:
A variation of the plain weave usually basket or checkerboard pattern
Contrasting colors are often used
Inexpensive, less durable than plain weave.
Basket weave is the amplification in height and width of plain weave. Two or more yarns have to be lifted or lowered over or under two or more picks for each plain weave point.
When the groups of yarns are equal, the basket weave is termed regular, otherwise it is termed irregular.
Types of weave:
Regular Basket Weave: This is commonly used for edges in drapery, or as a bottom in very small weave repeats, because the texture is too loose-fitting for big weave repeats; moreover, yarns of different groups can slip, group and overlap, spoiling the appearance. This is why only basket weaves 2-2, 3-3 and 4-4 exist.
Irregular Basket Weave: This is generally a combination of irregular warp and weft ribs.
Method of Construction: Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings.
Household Uses: Wall hangings, pillows.
Example of Basket weave:
Monks cloth: Heavy cotton Cloth in a coarse basket weave, chiefly used for draperies.
Oxford; Oxford weave fabric consists of two, thin warp yarns woven to very soft, thicker yarn in the filling direction. The unbalanced construction of the fabric causes the thin yarns to break and leave tiny holes. The primary use of oxford weave fabric is in cotton shirting. It is also used in other forms of apparel.
Twill Weave:
Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design.
The design is enhanced with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine.
characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on the surface. These may vary in angle from a low slope to a very steep slope.
Twill weaves are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber and yarn size. They can be produced in fancy designs.
Method of Construction: Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left
Household Uses: Upholstery, comforters, pillows.
Twill Angle: Twill angle is the angle which is produced by twill line with respect to the horizontal line. This twill angle depends on following factors.
Ratio between EPI and PPI.
Difference between warp and weft count.
Rate of advancement its interlacement warp and weft.
Classification of Twill Weave Twill weaves can be classified from four points of view
According to the way of construction
Warp-way twill weave: 3/1 warp-way twill, etc.
Weft-way twill weave: 2/3 weft-way twill, etc.
According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric
According to the face yarn (warp or weft)
According to the nature of the produced twill line
According to the way of construction
Warp way twill weave: In warp way twill weave warp float run in the warp direction.
Weft way twill weave: In weft way twill weave weft float run in the weft direction.
According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric
S-Twill: When the twill runs from the lower right to the upper left corner, the twill is known as a left- hand twill. It is produced by downward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting point is bottom left corner or upward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting point is bottom right corner. For example, it is expressed by the formula number 3/2S, where S- indicate the direction of twill line.
Z-Twill: When the diagonal line runs from the lower left corner to the upper right corner, the twill is known as a right-hand twill. About 85% of all twill-woven fabrics are right-hand twill. The alignment of twill Line is parallel to the middle portion of ‘Z’, so it is called Z – twill.
According to the face yarn (warp or weft)
Warp face twill weave: Warp-faced twill have a predominance of warp yarns on the face of the fabric, with 2/1, 3/1, 3/2, 4/2 and so on. The top digit of the fraction line is higher than the bottom one, so it is called warp-face twill.
Weft face twill weave: Weft-faced twill have a predominance of weft yarns on the surface of the fabric with 2/3, ¾, ½, 2/4. And so on. The top digit of the fraction line is smaller than the bottom one, so it is called weft-face twill.
Double face twill weave: Even sided twills expose an equal amount of warp and weft yarn on each side of a fabric. In this case the top and bottom both are of the fraction line are same, so it is called double face twill.
According to the nature of the produced twill line
Simple twill weave: There are two types of simple twill, such as simple warp twill and simple weft twills. Each warp end is raised over or lowered under only one pick in the repeat, with pattern of ½, 1/3, ¼, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, and so on. ½, 1/3, ¼, etc. are the simple weft twill and 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, etc. are the simple warp twill.
Expanded twill weave: Each warp end is raised over or lowered under more than one adjacent pick in the repeat. Lf the warp and weft twill lines are of equal width; the fabric is double- faced. It is represented by the formula number of 2/3, 3/2, 4/4, 2/4, and so on.
Multiple twill weave: In each repeat, there are at least two warp twill lines or two weft twill lines of different width. If the prominence of warp yarn is more than it is called warp-face multiple twill and the prominence of weft yarn is more than it is called weft-face multiple twill. If the prominence of both warp and weft yarns are same than it is called double-face multiple twill. Lt is represented by the formula number of and so on.
Balanced and unbalanced twill: In these types of twills the warp and weft floats may be equal or unequal. In other words, the twills may be of the reversible or irreversible types. Accordingly, they may be known as balanced and unbalanced twills. Examples of balanced twills are 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc. Examples of unbalanced twills are 2/3, 4/2, 5/3 etc. The 2/2 twill is popularly known as “Gaberdene” weave.
Derivatives of Twill Weave Zigzag/waved/pointed twill weave
It is the simplest and one of the most important modifications of twill weave produced by reversing the direction of twill at suitable interval.
A point is selected (usually the last warp is selected) as the reversing point and so it is sometime call as point twill.
In this twill pointed or straight draft is used.
This twill is produced by combining S and Z twist.
: According to reversing of direction there are two type of zigzag twill:
Horizontal zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill line occurs upon the warp yarn, it results a horizontal zigzag twill. Here the basic twill is extended in warp direction. Here the number of warp yarn in a repeat is double of the number of wefts. In horizontal zigzag twill pointed draft is used.
Vertical zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill line occurs upon the weft yarn, it results a vertical zigzag twill, here the basic twill is extended in weft direction. Here the number of weft yarn in a repeat is double of the warps. In Vertical zigzag twill straight draft is used.
Herringbone
In hearing bone twill straight draft is used. There are two type of hearing bone design-
Horizontal hearing bone twill: When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic twill in warp direction, horizontal hearing bone result in. The repeat size of horizontal herringbone is calculated from the regular or base twill weave like as horizontal zigzag weave. In this case the number of warp yarn in herringbone weave is double of the number of warp yarn of base twill and the number of weft yarn is same as base twill weave.
Vertical hearing bone twill: When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic twill in weft direction, vertical hearing bone result in. The repeat size of vertical herringbone is calculated from the regular or base twill weave like as vertical zig-zag weave. In this case the number of weft yarn in herringbone weave is double of the number of weft yarn of base twill and the number of warp yarn is same as base twill weave.
Reverse Twill –In this weave the number of threads in warp & weft of one repeat remains same in the design. In the following design one repeat of design has 8 threads in warp & weft. Reverse twill design should have same number of threads in face & back i.e. 2/2 ,3/3 , 4/4 etc.
Broken Twill –It is produced by breaking a regular twill. A broken twill weave composed of vertical sections which are alternately right hand and left hand in direction. In Broken Twills,
Diamond Twill Weave: It is a derivatives of twill weave. It constructed on the basis of zigzag twill principle. It is obtaining by combining a horizontal and vertical zigzag twill. So here in the repeat the number of both warp and weft thread are double then that in basic twill. Diamond is a reversible design. So, it may be divided into two equal parts in both vertical and horizontal axis. Pointed or V-drafting system is used to produce diamond design.
CHARACTERISTICS OF TWILL WEAVE
The diagonally arranged interlacing of warp and weft, Provide greater pliability and resilience than the plain weave.
Twill has less binding points than plain.
Twill weave fabrics are more tightly weave because the yarns are usually closely beaten,
Gives better cover than plain weave.
Not get dirty as quickly as the plain weave.
Making especially durable fabric.
Twill has more ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
Gives more cloth thickness and mass per unit area.
Twill weave have, Good aesthetic properties than plain weaves and softer than plain weaves as well.
Fabric with these lines may become flattened by wear and pressure, and thus become shiny.
Twill weave are commonly used in men’s suits and coats.
Satin and Sateen
Satin and sateen are basic weaves that have a smooth, lustrous surface and few interlacement points. The main difference between the two is that satin is warp-faced, while sateen is weft-faced.
Warp-faced: The surface of the fabric is made up of warp threads, with only one warp thread interlacing with another series of yarn.
Weft-faced: The surface of the fabric is made up of weft threads.
Long floats: The fabric has long floats, which are areas where no interlacing points touch each other.
Irregular intersection points: The intersection points are irregular, so no twill lines form in the fabric.
Loose structure: Only one warp or weft yarn interlaces at a time.
Method of Construction:
Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth face.
Common Fabrics: Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton & Charmeuse
Household Uses: Draperies, quilts
Examples of Fabric:
Satin: Used for ribbons, trimmings, dresses, linings etc, and originally was an all silk fabric with a fine rich glossy surface formed in a warp satin weave. The warp is much finer and more closely set than the weft, and the latter which only shows on the under side is frequently composed of cotton. Double faced Satins are made on the reversible warp backed principle, with one side differently colour from the other.
Sateen: A cotton fabric is made in 5 thread weft face sateen, and woven like cotton. It is sold in bleached, mercerized or printed condition.
Charmeuse: It is a light weight fabric woven with a satin weave, where the warp threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish-lustrous and reflective-whereas the back has a dull finish.
Warp Knitted Fabric and Spacer Fabric
Knitted fabrics are produced by two general methods – warp knitting, and weft knitting, and each method produces a variety of types of knitted fabrics.
Warp Knitted Fabric
Warp knitted fabrics are made in a special knitting machine with yarns from warp beam. Unlike weft knits, they are knitted from multiple yarns, with yarns forming loops in adjacent wales. The fabric may be identified with a pick glass. The face side of the fabric has slightly inclined vertical knitting loops whereas the backside of the fabric has inclined horizontal floats. They do not ravel.
Warp knit fabrics are constructed with yarn loops formed in a vertical or warp direction. All the yarns used for a width of a warp knit are placed parallel to each other in a manner similar to the placement of yarns in weaving. The fabrics that are made of great quality with the technique are generally made with Tricot and Raschel knits.
Tricot Knit Fabric
Tricot knits are made almost exclusively from filament yarns because uniform diameter and high quality are essential yarn characteristics for use with the very high-speed tricot knitting machines. Fabrics constructed by the tricot knitting machine are usually plain or have a simple geometric design. The front surface of the fabric has clearly defined vertical wales, and the back surface has crosswise courses.
Raschel Knit Fabric
Raschel knits are produced from spun or filament yarns of different weights and types. Most raschel knits can be identified by their intricate designs, the open-space look of crochet or lace, and an almost three-dimensional surface effect design.
Multi-bar jacquard raschel machine
To produce delicate elastic & non elastic laces for galloons and laces, intimate apparels, lingerie and outerwear
Working width: 335 cm = 132 inches
Notations
Notations are symbolical representation of objects, structures, designs and fabrics. Warp knitted fabrics notation is an important part of fabric manufacturing. Notations of warp knitted fabrics are graphical representation of the designs using dot notations and elements of notations.
Importance of Notation Diagram: By notation diagram one can easily show the structure of knit fabric. Chance of showing different types of stitch and easily differentiate from original one. It is easy to set out the needle. Easy to set out the cam for different types of stitch. In a single word, one can easily set the machine by showing the notation which is very tough when it is done by showing the original fabric.
Lapping
An overlap followed by an underlap in the opposite direction (closed lap)
An overlap followed by an underlap in the same direction (open lap)
Only overlaps and no underlaps (open lap)
Only underlaps and no overlaps (laying-in)
Neither overlaps nor underlaps (miss-lapping)
Pillar stitch (closed lap) Yarn is wrapped around same needleNo lateral connection of wales, no fabric formationDirection of feet in same directionChain notation: 1-0//
Pillar stitch (open lap) Yarn is wrapped around same needle No lateral connection of wales, no fabric formation Direction of feet changes in every course Chain notation: 1-0/0-1//
Atlas structure
Guide bar lays the same yarn continuously in one direction into the adjacent needle and reverses to the starting needle
Net
Net structures
Net: Pillar stitch + inlay yarn
Viscose inlay yarn is used for creating burnout styles
Nylon mono filament yarn (20d) is used for honey comb net Polyester multi filament yarn is used for square net
GB1: 1-0/0-1// (pillar)
Inlay GB2: 0-0/1-1/0-0/3-3/2-2/3-3//
Inlay GB3: 2-2/1-1/2-2/0-0/1-1/0-0//
SPACER FABRICS
A sandwich/spacer fabric is a 3D construction made of two separate fabrics, connected in between by yarns or knitted layers. The fabric thickness determined by length of the connecting yarns/layers. When produced on warp machines, these fabrics are known as spacers. In the case of weft knitted fabrics, they are known as sandwich fabrics.
Spacer fabrics are a kind of 3D manufactured textile structures in which two outer fabric layers are connected by a layer of pile threads. Because of the layer of these spacer yarns, a defined distance can be established between the outer layers, which generally varies from 1.5 to 10 mm. spacer mesh, also called 3D mesh and sandwich mesh is essentially 3 separate layers of fabric knit together – a face and a back connected by a monofilament yarn to produce the “connecting cushion”. Each layer is knit simultaneously by a single machine.
Types of connecting layers
Single layers – the layer is produced on one bed (jersey) or on both beds (rib, interlock) and can have a perpendicular or an inclined disposition between the separate fabrics.
Double layers - two layers are knitted separately on the beds, connected at a certain point with a rib evolution; if a specified amount of rib courses will be produced also in the exterior fabrics, then the connection will be "X" shaped, with possibilities to extend more the rib dimensions or to alternate the disposition of the two layers.
Advantages of spacer fabric
The major benefit of using spacer material is to replace polyurethane (PU), neoprene, and other types of foams that are laminated to textile fabrics for creating bulk, softness, flexibility, resilience, and so on.
Applications of spacer fabrics
The major product applications for warp-knitted spacer materials are vehicle seat covers (both solid or net structures in the face or back or both surfaces); automotive interiors (lining for doors, roofs, convertible hoods, and so on); seat heating systems for cars; mud flaps for trucks and buses; insoles and face fabric for sports and other shoes; lining for rubber and other boots; protective inner lining; mattress underlays and mattress covers for prevention and management of incontinence and pressure sores; for children’s beds; diving and surfing suits; sports equipment; high-performance sportswear; reinforcement for composite structures; bras; underwear; swimwear; shoulder pads; fluid filters; geotextiles; bandages; plaster casts; braces; controlled release of drugs, antimicrobials, cosmetics, and so on; and finally heat and moisture regulation fabrics
Cord Weave and Structure
Bedford cord, named after the town of New Bedford, Massachusetts, a famous 19th century textile manufacturing city, is a durable fabric that resembles corduroy. The weave has faint lengthwise ridges, but without the filling yarns that make the distinct wales characteristic of corduroy.
The bed ford cords are a class of weaves that produce longitudinal warp lines in the cloth with fine sunken lines in between. They are constructed on a pair of picks or alternate picks. The cord weave is alternated by plain weave weft way. The cord effects so produced enable to bring out stripe effects in solid colours. Generally cotton and worsted yarns are used in the production of bed ford cords. Cotton is used in weaving of lighter textures while worsted is used in weaving of heavier textures. In the design of bed ford cords, two series of warp threads are considered. The first group constitutes the face threads which weave as cord and plain weave on alternate or pair of picks. The other group of threads known as cutting ends weave as plain. The cutting ends separate the neighbouring cords. The cords may be alternated by plain or twill weave weft way.
CLASSIFICATION OF BED FORD CORDS:
PLAIN FACED BED FORD CORDS: In this type, the cord or rib effect is produced by alternating plain weave with the cord either on alternate picks or a pair of picks
Construction of plain faced Bedford cord on a pair of picks: The repeat size of the Bedford cord is split into cutting ends and face ends. The cutting ends weave plain and the face ends weave the cord.
Construction of a plain faced bedford cord on alternate picks: shows the face and cutting threads. showing the insertion of plain weave on alternate picks to obtain the Bedford cord design.
Construction of a plain 3 faced wadded Bedford cord design is shown the design of plain faced wadded bed ford cord. The wadded threads are introduced at the middle in between the face threads.
TWILL FACED BED FORD CORD: In this type of cord, a twill weave is used instead of a plain weave, along with the cord or rib weave to get a better effect. In this type, the warp is brought more prominently to the surface.
Design of a wadded twill faced bedford cord
End used of Bedford Cords:
Dress materials
Military dresses
Suiting woollen and worsted fabrics (Heavy type)
Furnishing
Sportswear
Ladies wear medium weight material