CHAPTER 11 HAIR REMOVAL
TRICHOLOGY
scientific study of hair and its diseases
ARRECTOR PILLI MUSCLE
goosebumps
SEBACOUS GLAND
lubricates the skin and hair by secreting a waxy subsatnce called sebum
HAIR SHAFT
the part of the hair located above the surface of the skin
HAIR PAPILLA
cone shaped elevation of connective tissue that contains the capillaries and nevres located at the base of the follicle that fits into the bulb
necessary for hair growth
causes bleeding with waxing
FOLLICULAR CANAL
lined with epidermal tissue which produces the follicle and matrix where cell mitosis (division) happens
HAIR BULB
club shaped structure made from epithelial cells that surround the pailla
inner most layer of the follicle
HAIR ROOT
anchors hair and to the skin cells and is part of the hair located at the bottom of the follicle below the surface of the skin
where the hair grows
LANUGO
soft downy hair found on a baby and sheds after birth
VELLUS
found in areas that are not covered by larger coarse terminal hairs
peach fuzz
not recommended to wax or tweeze or shave (especially against hair growth) can potentially BUT NOT ALWAYS cause terminal hairs to grow
TERMINAL HAIR
longer, more coarse hair
typically found on brows, head, lashes, arms, legs, beards, and genitals
hairs switch from vellus to terminal during puberty
ANAGEN
first phase of hair growth cycle
new hair is produced
new cells form hair and root sheaths while the older part of the hair is pushed upward
lash anagen phase is shorter than hair on your head
length of the anagen phase dtermines hair length
removing hair during this phase is best for long term hair reduction and thinning
CATAGEN
second phase of hair growth phase
mitosis ceases and hair detaches from papilla
shortest phase of hair growth cycle
hair lsoes its inner root sheath and becomes dryer
Club hair
TELOGEN
last phase of hair growth cycle
hair will show above the skin
club hair moves up the follicle and is ready to shed
hair bulb is not active and hair is only attached by epidermal cells
HYPERTRICHOSIS
excessive growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that norally only grow vellus hair
genetically and ethnically inherited
not stimulated by male androgens (not a hormone imbalance)
can also be caused by certain medical procedures or medicications
HIRSUTISM
excessive hair growth on the face, chest, underarms, and groin especially in women
caused by excessive male androgens in the blood (hormone imbalance)
menopause, puberty, stress, illness, and medications can cause this
DISORDER
abnormality of function, like a birth defect or genetically inherited malfunction
SYNDROME
group of symptoms that when combined, characterize a disease or disorder
TEMPORARY HAIR REMOVAL
involves repeat treatments as the hair grows
PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL
the papilla is destroyed making regrowth impossible
DEPILATION
is a process of removing hair at or near the level of the skin
shaving or chemical depilation (nair)
EPILATION
process of removing hair from the bottom of the follicle by breaking contact between the bulb and the papilla
tweezing, waxing, sugaring, and threading
TWEEZING
method of using tweezers to pull hair out by the root one at titme
SHAVING
hair is removed down to the surface of the skin
may appear darker and thicker but that is because the thinner part of the shaft is shaved off and you are left with the thicker part of the shaft
FOLLICULITIS
infection of the hair follicles
CHEMICAL DEPILATORY
chemical substance spread on the skin to dissolve the hair at the surface of the skin and just below the stratum corneum
THREADING
also known as banding
works by using cotton thread that is looped and twisted in the middle then quickly and selectively guided along the surface of the skin snagging unwanted hairs in the twisted portion of the thread and epilating them
SUGARING
uses a thick, sugar based paste and is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types
can be used for shorter hair lengths
hand method - product is held in the hand and applied against hair growth and removed in the direction of the hair
hand method is applied performed at body temperature
spatula method - product is applied with a spatula in the direction of the hair and removed against the hair growth with muslin or pellon strips
spatula method is warmed according to manufacturers instructions
naturally antiseptic properties
WAXING
2 types, hard wax and soft wax
apply evenly over the hair
4-6 weeks between waxing appointments
soft wax uses strips to remove
relatively fast and efficient
hair length of ½ inch for coarse hair and ¼ inch for fine hair is required for removal
any use of acne medications mean you cant be waxed
ingredients = rosins, beeswax, honey, paraffin, and other waxes and substances
consistencies and melting points vary
keep wax at recommended temperature and don’t leave on overnight (diminishes effectiveness and may cause injury)
gloves must be worn for all waxing services
NEVER DOUBLE DIP YOUR STICK
HARD WAX
no strip for removal
smaller areas of the body
typically available in blocks, disks, pellets, or beads
harder the wax the more heat required to melt it
candelilla and carnauba (a hard wax used to modify the melting point and provide increased strength to hard wax)
can apply more hard wax over previously applied hard wax
excess wax left over should be removed with a post treatment oil
SOFT WAX
strip for removal
larger areas of the body
gum rosin (additive in soft wax)
more abrasive because it adheres to the skin
roller applicators are an option (they are single use)
CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR WAXING
acne medications
vericose veins (can cause easy bruising)
skin conditions
medical conditions (diabetes, epilepsy, hemophilia)
ELECTROLYSIS
method of permanent hair removal
removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the hair root
3 main modalitys (galvanic, thermolysis, and the blend)
only method that the FDA recognizes as fully permanent
THERMOLYSIS
uses alternating current (AC) that is applied and emitted from the prob, inserted into the follicle of the hair to be eliminated to destroy papilla
modality of electrolysis
GALVANIC
utilizes direct current (DC) from the probe which creates a chemical reaction of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) also known as lye to cause decomposition of the follicle
modality of electrolysis
BLEND
galvanic and thermolysis
a combination of the 2 methods applied alternatly or simultaneously
modality of electrolysis
LASER HAIR REMOVAL
not always permanent
performed in a medical setting or under a medical director
use intense pulses of electromagnetic radiation that is attracted to and heats up pigment (gray hair wont respond)
IPL
intense pulsed light
produces a quick flash of light (short powerful pulses shatter their target without allowing heat to build up)
under a medical setting
not always permanent
TRICHOLOGY
scientific study of hair and its diseases
ARRECTOR PILLI MUSCLE
goosebumps
SEBACOUS GLAND
lubricates the skin and hair by secreting a waxy subsatnce called sebum
HAIR SHAFT
the part of the hair located above the surface of the skin
HAIR PAPILLA
cone shaped elevation of connective tissue that contains the capillaries and nevres located at the base of the follicle that fits into the bulb
necessary for hair growth
causes bleeding with waxing
FOLLICULAR CANAL
lined with epidermal tissue which produces the follicle and matrix where cell mitosis (division) happens
HAIR BULB
club shaped structure made from epithelial cells that surround the pailla
inner most layer of the follicle
HAIR ROOT
anchors hair and to the skin cells and is part of the hair located at the bottom of the follicle below the surface of the skin
where the hair grows
LANUGO
soft downy hair found on a baby and sheds after birth
VELLUS
found in areas that are not covered by larger coarse terminal hairs
peach fuzz
not recommended to wax or tweeze or shave (especially against hair growth) can potentially BUT NOT ALWAYS cause terminal hairs to grow
TERMINAL HAIR
longer, more coarse hair
typically found on brows, head, lashes, arms, legs, beards, and genitals
hairs switch from vellus to terminal during puberty
ANAGEN
first phase of hair growth cycle
new hair is produced
new cells form hair and root sheaths while the older part of the hair is pushed upward
lash anagen phase is shorter than hair on your head
length of the anagen phase dtermines hair length
removing hair during this phase is best for long term hair reduction and thinning
CATAGEN
second phase of hair growth phase
mitosis ceases and hair detaches from papilla
shortest phase of hair growth cycle
hair lsoes its inner root sheath and becomes dryer
Club hair
TELOGEN
last phase of hair growth cycle
hair will show above the skin
club hair moves up the follicle and is ready to shed
hair bulb is not active and hair is only attached by epidermal cells
HYPERTRICHOSIS
excessive growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that norally only grow vellus hair
genetically and ethnically inherited
not stimulated by male androgens (not a hormone imbalance)
can also be caused by certain medical procedures or medicications
HIRSUTISM
excessive hair growth on the face, chest, underarms, and groin especially in women
caused by excessive male androgens in the blood (hormone imbalance)
menopause, puberty, stress, illness, and medications can cause this
DISORDER
abnormality of function, like a birth defect or genetically inherited malfunction
SYNDROME
group of symptoms that when combined, characterize a disease or disorder
TEMPORARY HAIR REMOVAL
involves repeat treatments as the hair grows
PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL
the papilla is destroyed making regrowth impossible
DEPILATION
is a process of removing hair at or near the level of the skin
shaving or chemical depilation (nair)
EPILATION
process of removing hair from the bottom of the follicle by breaking contact between the bulb and the papilla
tweezing, waxing, sugaring, and threading
TWEEZING
method of using tweezers to pull hair out by the root one at titme
SHAVING
hair is removed down to the surface of the skin
may appear darker and thicker but that is because the thinner part of the shaft is shaved off and you are left with the thicker part of the shaft
FOLLICULITIS
infection of the hair follicles
CHEMICAL DEPILATORY
chemical substance spread on the skin to dissolve the hair at the surface of the skin and just below the stratum corneum
THREADING
also known as banding
works by using cotton thread that is looped and twisted in the middle then quickly and selectively guided along the surface of the skin snagging unwanted hairs in the twisted portion of the thread and epilating them
SUGARING
uses a thick, sugar based paste and is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types
can be used for shorter hair lengths
hand method - product is held in the hand and applied against hair growth and removed in the direction of the hair
hand method is applied performed at body temperature
spatula method - product is applied with a spatula in the direction of the hair and removed against the hair growth with muslin or pellon strips
spatula method is warmed according to manufacturers instructions
naturally antiseptic properties
WAXING
2 types, hard wax and soft wax
apply evenly over the hair
4-6 weeks between waxing appointments
soft wax uses strips to remove
relatively fast and efficient
hair length of ½ inch for coarse hair and ¼ inch for fine hair is required for removal
any use of acne medications mean you cant be waxed
ingredients = rosins, beeswax, honey, paraffin, and other waxes and substances
consistencies and melting points vary
keep wax at recommended temperature and don’t leave on overnight (diminishes effectiveness and may cause injury)
gloves must be worn for all waxing services
NEVER DOUBLE DIP YOUR STICK
HARD WAX
no strip for removal
smaller areas of the body
typically available in blocks, disks, pellets, or beads
harder the wax the more heat required to melt it
candelilla and carnauba (a hard wax used to modify the melting point and provide increased strength to hard wax)
can apply more hard wax over previously applied hard wax
excess wax left over should be removed with a post treatment oil
SOFT WAX
strip for removal
larger areas of the body
gum rosin (additive in soft wax)
more abrasive because it adheres to the skin
roller applicators are an option (they are single use)
CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR WAXING
acne medications
vericose veins (can cause easy bruising)
skin conditions
medical conditions (diabetes, epilepsy, hemophilia)
ELECTROLYSIS
method of permanent hair removal
removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the hair root
3 main modalitys (galvanic, thermolysis, and the blend)
only method that the FDA recognizes as fully permanent
THERMOLYSIS
uses alternating current (AC) that is applied and emitted from the prob, inserted into the follicle of the hair to be eliminated to destroy papilla
modality of electrolysis
GALVANIC
utilizes direct current (DC) from the probe which creates a chemical reaction of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) also known as lye to cause decomposition of the follicle
modality of electrolysis
BLEND
galvanic and thermolysis
a combination of the 2 methods applied alternatly or simultaneously
modality of electrolysis
LASER HAIR REMOVAL
not always permanent
performed in a medical setting or under a medical director
use intense pulses of electromagnetic radiation that is attracted to and heats up pigment (gray hair wont respond)
IPL
intense pulsed light
produces a quick flash of light (short powerful pulses shatter their target without allowing heat to build up)
under a medical setting
not always permanent