CHAPTER 11 HAIR REMOVAL

TRICHOLOGY

• scientific study of hair and its diseases

PILOSEBACEOUS UNIT

• contains the hair follicle and its appendages (hair root, hair bulb, hair papilla, hair shaft, arrector pili muscle, and sebaceous glands

ARRECTOR PILLI MUSCLE

• goosebumps

SEBACOUS GLAND

• lubricates the skin and hair by secreting a waxy subsatnce called sebum

HAIR FOLLICLE

• mass of epidermal cells forming a small tube, or canal

• tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair root

• xtend deep into the dermis

HAIR SHAFT

• the part of the hair located above the surface of the skin

• consisting of the cuticle, medulla, and cortex

HAIR PAPILLA

• cone shaped elevation of connective tissue that contains the capillaries and nevres located at the base of the follicle that fits into the bulb

• necessary for hair growth and nourishment of the follicle

• causes bleeding with waxing

FOLLICULAR CANAL

• lined with epidermal tissue which produces the follicle and matrix where cell mitosis (division) happens

HAIR BULB

• club shaped structure made from epithelial cells that surround the pailla

• inner most layer of the follicle

HAIR ROOT

• anchors hair and to the skin cells and is part of the hair located at the bottom of the follicle below the surface of the skin

• part of the hair that lies within the follicle at its base

• where the hair grows

LANUGO

• soft downy hair found on a baby and sheds after birth

VELLUS

• found in areas that are not covered by larger coarse terminal hairs

• peach fuzz

• not recommended to wax or tweeze or shave (especially against hair growth) can potentially BUT NOT ALWAYS cause terminal hairs to grow

TERMINAL HAIR

• longer, more coarse hair

• typically found on brows, head, lashes, arms, legs, beards, and genitals

• hairs switch from vellus to terminal during puberty

ANAGEN

• first phase of hair growth cycle

• new hair is produced

• new cells form hair and root sheaths while the older part of the hair is pushed upward

• lash anagen phase is shorter than hair on your head

• length of the anagen phase dtermines hair length

• removing hair during this phase is best for long term hair reduction and thinning

CATAGEN

• second phase of hair growth phase

• mitosis ceases and hair detaches from papilla

• shortest phase of hair growth cycle

• hair lsoes its inner root sheath and becomes dryer

• Club hair

TELOGEN

• last phase of hair growth cycle

• hair will show above the skin

• club hair moves up the follicle and is ready to shed

• hair bulb is not active and hair is only attached by epidermal cells

HYPERTRICHOSIS

• excessive growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that norally only grow vellus hair

• genetically and ethnically inherited

• not stimulated by male androgens (not a hormone imbalance)

• can also be caused by certain medical procedures or medicications

HIRSUTISM

• excessive hair growth on the face, chest, underarms, and groin especially in women

• caused by excessive male androgens in the blood (hormone imbalance)

• menopause, puberty, stress, illness, and medications can cause this

DISEASE

• pathological, like conditions caused by viruses and bacteria with a series of signs and symptoms

• medical conditions related to excessive androgen production that affect hair growth are acromegaly and cushing syndrome

DISORDER

• abnormality of function, like a birth defect or genetically inherited malfunction

• adrenogenital syndrome is a malfunction of the adrenal cortex that causes an over production of androgens

SYNDROME

• group of symptoms that when combined, characterize a disease or disorder

• PCOS can cause an individual to present with hirsutism, irregular menses, ovarian cysts, and obesity

• achard-thiers syndrome is also a syndrome that could affect hair growth (combination of cushing syndrome and adrenogenital syndromes)

TEMPORARY HAIR REMOVAL

• involves repeat treatments as the hair grows

PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL

• the papilla is destroyed making regrowth impossible

DEPILATION

• is a process of removing hair at or near the level of the skin

• shaving or chemical depilation (nair)

EPILATION

• process of removing hair from the bottom of the follicle by breaking contact between the bulb and the papilla

• tweezing, waxing, sugaring, and threading

TWEEZING

• method of using tweezers to pull hair out by the root one at time

• PROS : minimal cost after 1 time purchase, convenient to use

• CONS : can be uncomfortable (or painful), eyeglasses impede tweezing, poor vision makes it difficult, time consuming, laborous for clearing dense growth, only feasible in small areas, hairs broken with tweezing can create bumps and pimples

SHAVING

• hair is removed down to the surface of the skin

• may appear darker and thicker but that is because the thinner part of the shaft is shaved off and you are left with the thicker part of the shaft

• PROS : inexpensive, convenient, fast, painless

• CONS : causes stubble hair grwoth in 1-4 days, vellus hair is also removed when terminal hair on the face is shaved, may cause folliculitis, PFB, and ingrown hairs, may cut skin

FOLLICULITIS

• infection of the hair follicles

CHEMICAL DEPILATORY

• chemical substance spread on the skin to dissolve the hair at the surface of the skin and just below the stratum corneum

THREADING

• also known as banding

• works by using cotton thread that is looped and twisted in the middle then quickly and selectively guided along the surface of the skin snagging unwanted hairs in the twisted portion of the thread and epilating them

SUGARING

• uses a thick, sugar based paste and is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types

• can be used for shorter hair lengths

• hand method - product is held in the hand and applied against hair growth and removed in the direction of the hair

• hand method is applied performed at body temperature

• spatula method - product is applied with a spatula in the direction of the hair and removed against the hair growth with muslin or pellon strips

• spatula method is warmed according to manufacturers instructions

• naturally antiseptic properties

WAXING

• 2 types, hard wax and soft wax

• apply evenly over the hair

• 4-6 weeks between waxing appointments

• soft wax uses strips to remove

• relatively fast and efficient

• hair length of ½ inch for coarse hair and ¼ inch for fine hair is required for removal

• any use of acne medications mean you cant be waxed

• ingredients = rosins, beeswax, honey, paraffin, and other waxes and substances

• consistencies and melting points vary

• keep wax at recommended temperature and don’t leave on overnight (diminishes effectiveness and may cause injury)

• gloves must be worn for all waxing services

• NEVER DOUBLE DIP YOUR STICK

HARD WAX

• no strip for removal

• smaller areas of the body

• typically available in blocks, disks, pellets, or beads

• harder the wax the more heat required to melt it

• candelilla and carnauba (a hard wax used to modify the melting point and provide increased strength to hard wax)

• can apply more hard wax over previously applied hard wax

• excess wax left over should be removed with a post treatment oil

SOFT WAX

• strip for removal

• larger areas of the body

• gum rosin (additive in soft wax)

• more abrasive because it adheres to the skin

• roller applicators are an option (they are single use)

CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR WAXING

• acne medications

• vericose veins (can cause easy bruising)

• skin conditions

• medical conditions (diabetes, epilepsy, hemophilia)

ELECTROLYSIS

• method of permanent hair removal

• removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the hair root

• 3 main modalitys (galvanic, thermolysis, and the blend)

• only method that the FDA recognizes as fully permanent

THERMOLYSIS

• uses alternating current (AC) that is applied and emitted from the prob, inserted into the follicle of the hair to be eliminated to destroy papilla

• modality of electrolysis

GALVANIC

• utilizes direct current (DC) from the probe which creates a chemical reaction of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) also known as lye to cause decomposition of the follicle

• modality of electrolysis

BLEND

• galvanic and thermolysis

• a combination of the 2 methods applied alternatly or simultaneously

• modality of electrolysis

LASER HAIR REMOVAL

• not always permanent

• performed in a medical setting or under a medical director

• use intense pulses of electromagnetic radiation that is attracted to and heats up pigment (gray hair wont respond)

IPL

• intense pulsed light

• produces a quick flash of light (short powerful pulses shatter their target without allowing heat to build up)

• under a medical setting

• not always permanent

HARD WAX

• gentle enough for facial area, yet strong enough for hard-to-remove, coarse hair and areas where hair growth coverages from multiple directions

• PRETREATMENT : cleanse and prepare skin (remove makeup) with products recomended by the manufacturer

• TECHNIQUE :