chemistry of cosmetology Flashcards Set

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  • pH of skin: 4.1-5.8 

  • Epidermis and dermis, two main layers of skin 

  • Top most layer of dermis: stratum corneum 

  • Cells are dead in what layer? SC

  • Dead skin cell: keratinocytes, corneocytes 

  • Where do keratonocytes come from? Stratum basale 

  • What is sebum? 

  • Fatty acid structure? Long chain, hydophillic tail and hydrophobic head, hydroyl group and carbon chain. 





  • What components make up a buffer? Weak acid and conj base 

  • Purpose of a buffer? Resistance to pH change, stability 

  • Where are skin ceramides found? 

  • What can happen to skin if skin barrier is weakened? Diseased skin

  • Sensitive skin syndrome? Unpleasant sensation of skin, not disease. 

  • What part of skin is used in skin testing? Naso libial folds 

  • Difference between monotherapy and combination therapy? 

  • What does hypoallergenic mean? 

  • What happens to the brick and mortis structure of corneocytes that leads to dermatitis? 

  • Haptins? Cause immune response 

  • Chemical that treats acne: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide

  • Intrinsic and extrinsic factors to skin aging 

  • Biggest extrinsic factor is UV radiation 

  • What is collagen? Keeps skin elastic, links of amino acids that are made into a triple helix. (How are they held together?)

  • Composition of sun energy that reaches us? Give percentages 

  • How does high energy destroy skin? Higher energy rays penetrate skin. Sunscreen creates radicals. 

  • Collagen is found in our nails and hair. Found in bones and cartilage. 

  • What treatment is used to treat collagen better? Oral or topical? Oral because molecules are too big to travel through topically. 

  • Hyaluronic acid is a temporary treatment to treat aging? True, it gets metabolized and is degenerated. 

  • Chemical responsible for skin coloring? Melanin 

  • What melanin is dominant? Eumelanin (black brown) 

  • Consequences of having more melanin in the skin? Less vitamin D intake 

  • Are all topical corticosteroids all the same? False 

  • Potency of corticosteroids depends on the chemical and dose? True 

  • What is the superior synthetic film forming agent in skin? Silicon 

  • Difference between silicon and silicone? Silicon is an element and silicone is a polymer bonded to oxygen. 

  • Solubility properties of silicone? Not soluble in water or oils. 

  • Concerns of silicones? Silicone has an environmental effect because it is not biodegradable, not naturally occurring so people do not favor it. 

  • what are qualities of formulations that are considered to be green and clean? Natural ingredients, few ingredients, silicone free

  • What parts are covered by the pollution prevention act of 199? 

  • There is agreed upon definition for natural or nature identical ingredients? False.

  • What group in the USA is responsible for monitoring performance oriented claims that manufactures? NAD

  • What group is responsible in regulating medicinal claims? FDA

  • For cosmetic labels, what types of labels does NAD evaluate? Green, preservative free, silicone free, etc. 

  • Common types of emulsions? ionic or non ionic 

  • Ester emollients can be used as substitute for silicone. However esters have challenges in stability. What pH affects craters and what happens to the ester? 

  • Short esters smell fruity 

  • What formulations should incorporate preservatives and what percent? Anything with water, 0.3-1% 

  • What is the starting compound from which paraben preservatives are synthesized from? PHBA (found in plants and nature)