Hair Pressing Notes

Pressing Combs

  • Definition: Pressing comb (hot comb) is a tool used for temporary straightening, available in electric or cordless designs.
  • Usage:
    • Effective on highly textured hair.
    • Used for finishing or reaching edges around the hairline where a flat iron isn't suitable.
  • Function: Temporarily straightens textured hair (curly, coily, and highly textured).
  • Duration: Lasts until the next shampoo; touch-ups may be needed due to curl reversion from perspiration or other factors.
  • Additional Services: Prepares hair for thermal curling.

Types of Pressings

  • Soft Press:
    • Removes 50-60% of the curl.
  • Medium Press:
    • Removes 60-75% of the curl.
  • Hard Press:
    • Removes 100% of the curl.
    • Involves a double press (passing through the hair twice).

Pressing Comb Materials and Heating

  • Pressing combs vary in their ability to accept and retain heat, depending on their material.
  • Heating Methods:
    • Electric appliances.
    • Heated on an electric or gas stove.
  • Electric Pressing Combs:
    • Available with an on/off switch or a thermostat indicating heat levels.
  • Gas Stove Heating:
    • Point the teeth of the comb upwards.
    • Keep the handle away from the fire.
  • Temperature Testing:
    • Test the heated comb on paper.
    • If the paper scorches, let the comb cool slightly and retest.
  • Cleaning:
    • Clean to ensure effective performance.
    • Clean and disinfect like electric or stove-heated irons.
    • Use a wire brush to remove oil or grease buildup from the teeth.
    • Use steel wool to remove carbon or soot (black dust) from stove-heated irons.

Maintenance and Care

  • Wipe clean of loose hair and debris before and after each use.
  • The comb's intense heat keeps it sterile once hair and debris are removed.
  • Stove-Heated Combs:
    • Remove carbon by rubbing the outside and between the teeth with fine steel wool or sandpaper.
    • Soak the metal part in a hot baking soda solution for about an hour.
    • Rinse and dry the comb for a smooth and shiny appearance.

Tempering New Pressing Combs

  • Temper new brass pressing combs to remove residue and ensure even heating.
    • Heat the pressing comb until extremely hot.
    • Coat it in petroleum jelly or pressing oil.
    • Allow it to cool.
    • Wipe off excessive oil, rinse with hot water, and pat dry.
    • This is similar to seasoning cast iron skillets.

Pressing Oils and Creams

  • Treat hair with pressing oil or cream before pressing for the following benefits:
    • Soften the hair.
    • Repair and condition the hair.
    • Protect the hair from burning or scorching.
    • Prevent hair breakage.
    • Add sheen to the pressed hair.
    • Help hair stay pressed longer by acting as a sealant and preventing reversion.

Considerations for Special Circumstances

  • Pressing Fine Hair:
    • Use the same procedure as for normal hair.
    • Avoid high heat and excessive pressure.
    • Consider flat ironing instead if the curl form is not highly textured.
    • Apply less pressure near the ends to prevent breakage.
  • Pressing Short, Fine Hair:
    • Take extra care around the hairline.
    • Ensure the pressing comb is not too hot to prevent burning.
  • Pressing Coarse Hair:
    • Apply enough pressure to ensure the hair remains straight.
  • Pressing Lightened or Tinted Hair:
    • Pressing lightened or bleached hair is generally not recommended.
    • Tinted hair might need pre- or post-conditioning treatments based on damage extent.
  • Recommendation:
    • Pressing is best suited for medium to coarse textured or very curly/coily hair.