Cutting Room Midterm Study Guide

Cutting Room Midterm Study Guide

General Overview

  • A comprehensive study guide for preparing for a midterm exam consisting of 25-30 multiple choice questions, offered online.

Marker Types

Closed Marker

  • Definition: Fabric is laid out on the fold. Uses the full width of the fabric.

  • Utilization: Pattern pieces are half pieces, creating a full piece when laid on fabric.

  • Application: For symmetrical patterns, half the quantity of pattern pieces needed for cutting.

  • Cutting Methods: Straight knives or die cutters are typically used.

Folded Marker

  • Definition: Fabric folded in half along the grainline.

  • Layout: Pattern pieces placed in a mirrored or symmetrical arrangement.

  • Efficiency:

    • Best for symmetrical garments (e.g., t-shirts, dresses).

    • Reduces cutting time significantly.

  • Question: Do you mark in a full collar or half collar? Answer: Half collar on the “fold” line.

Tubular Goods

  • Definition: Garments knitted or constructed in a tube form without side seams.

  • Advantages:

    • Eliminates side seams, which reduces fabric waste and improves fit and comfort.

    • Faster production with minimal cutting and stitching required.

    • Cost-efficient due to reduced labor intensity.

Open Marker

  • Definition: Usable width is defined by the area inside of the selvage.

  • Application: Pieces arranged separately, used for fabrics with a one-way print, nap, or directional patterns (e.g. plaids, silk).

Pattern Types

Symmetrical Patterns

  • Characteristics: Balanced elements on either side of a central axis (e.g., identical floral print on a dress).

Asymmetrical Patterns

  • Characteristics: Not identical on both sides (e.g., one-shoulder dresses, high-low hemlines).

Marking and Nap Types

  • F/F (Face to Face) and F/O/W (Face One Way): Principally used in fabric layout, ensuring consistent orientation.

  • N/O/W (Nap One Way): Requires all pattern pieces to align, can lead to shading issues if misaligned.

  • N/U/D (Nap Up & Down): Less common, different size pieces can be arranged without disrupting nap.

  • N/E/W (Nap Either Way): Common for non-nap fabrics, yielding better fabric utilization.

Marker Types - Sectional vs Non-Sectional

Sectional Markers

  • Definition: Optimize the cutting process by arranging pieces into sections, enhancing efficiency particularly with printed fabrics.

Non-Sectional Markers

  • Definition: Continuous layout across fabric for simpler patterns; no interruptions between sections.

Cutting Techniques

Straight Knife Usage

  • Capabilities: Versatile for cutting components of various sizes, effective for straight and curved cuts.

  • Operation: Moves along cut contours while the fabric remains fixed.

Round Knife Usage

  • Specialization: Best for straight cuts and large radius curves, limited for tight curves or notches.

Die Cutting Advantages

  • Precision: Cuts pieces to exact size and shape.

  • Applications: Especially useful with detailed components, leather goods, and affordable in bulk production.

Calculating Fabric Yardage

  1. Determine fabric needed for each size.

    • Examples: S = 1.2 yards, M = 1.3 yards, L = 1.4 yards, XL = 1.5 yards.

  2. Count total garments in each size.

    • Example: 1 S, 2 M, 2 L, 1 XL = 6 total garments.

  3. Multiply fabric per size with quantity.

    • Total fabric = 8.1 yards (for example).

  4. Average size yardage = Total fabric / Total garments.

Marker Lengths and Waste Allowance

  • Example Marker Lengths: 68’’ long, waste allowance calculations for total yardage and direct material costs.

Spreading Techniques

  • Definition: Process of superimposing fabric lengths for preparation before cutting.

  • Spreading Modes: F/O/W + N/O/W, F/F + N/O/W, F/F + N/U/D determine based on fabric characteristics.

Cost Calculations

  • Example Problem: Given a 300 unit order, calculate costs based on dimensions of markers, including cutting costs, spreading methods, and fabric costs (including waste factors).

  • Familiarize with calculations involving fabric costs, marker making costs, cutting costs, and total production costs to be prepared for exam questions.