Hair Color Basics and Formulations

Fundamentals of Hair Color

• Level:

  • Defines the relative lightness or darkness of hair.
  • Operates on a standard numerical scale ranging from $1$ to $10$.
  • Level $1$ corresponds to black (the darkest level).
  • Level $10$ corresponds to the lightest blonde (the lightest level).

• Tone:

  • Describes the visible tonal character of the hair, specifically whether it appears warm or cool.

• Target:

  • The end goal of a color formulation, defined as the specific level plus tone intended to be created.

Color Neutralization Principles

• Complementary colors situated opposite one another on the color wheel cancel or neutralize each other:
  • Yellow is neutralized by Violet ($\text{Yellow} \rightarrow \text{Violet}$).
  • Orange is neutralized by Blue ($\text{Orange} \rightarrow \text{Blue}$).
  • Red is neutralized by Green ($\text{Red} \rightarrow \text{Green}$).

Underlying Pigments by Hair Level

• As hair is lifted or lightened, specific warm underlying pigments are exposed at each stage of the $1$ through $10$ scale:
  • Levels $1\text{--}2$: Display an underlying pigment of red.
  • Levels $3\text{--}4$: Display an underlying pigment of red / red-orange.
  • Levels $5\text{--}6$: Display an underlying pigment of orange.
  • Levels $7\text{--}8$: Display an underlying pigment of orange / yellow.
  • Levels $9\text{--}10$: Display an underlying pigment of yellow / pale yellow.

Formulation and Application of Toners

• Assessment Protocol:

  • Prior to choosing a toner, evaluate the underlying warmth and shade of the hair immediately after the lifting process is complete.

• Toner Selection Rules:

  • When the lifted hair appears too yellow, apply a toner with violet base tones to counteract the unwanted brassiness.
  • When the lifted hair appears too orange, apply a toner with blue base tones to neutralize the warmth.
  • When the lifted hair appears too red, apply a toner with green base tones to neutralize the red cast.