111.4 Notes- Perm Skills

Notes:

• A pre-perm analysis of the hair’s porosity, elasticity, texture and density helps:

  • Choose the right base size and rod size for optimum curl development

  • Select the proper perm solution for effective results

  • Manage processing time safely and efficiently

• Porosity

  • The ability of hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals

    • More porous, more absorption

  • Perming guidelines based on hair porosity:

    • Porous hair:

      • Mild acid perm recommended

    • “Resistant” hair

      • Lacks porosity

      • Requires stronger alkaline solution in order to pre-soften the cuticle and allow perm chemicals to be absorbed

    • Highly/excessively porous hair

      • Usually in some stage of chemical or physical damage from highly alkaline shampoos, hair color treatments or thermal styling

      • Needs to be reconditioned before any perm service with pre-wrapping product to euqalize porosity

      • Need to select gentler, slower-acting type of perm for greater control during processing

  • A finger/porosity test should be performed to determine hair’s porosity

• Elasticity

  • The hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking

    • Normal dry hair is capable of being stretched about 1/5 (20%) of its length

    • Normal wet hair is able to be stretched about 40-50% of its length

    • If hair has poor elasticity, it won’t be able to return to its original shape after being gently stretched

    • Hair lacking elasticity/resiliency