110.3 Notes- Identifying Existing Hair Color
Notes:
Existing hair color
The existing and/or contributing pigment and the artificial color contributes to the end result of the color service
Contributing pigment is either the client’s naturally present melanin or a combination of this melanin and any previously applied artificial color that is remaining on the hair
Contributing pigment + artificial pigment = final color result
Melanin
Pigment that gives hair its natural color, determined through genetics
The 3 layers of the hair follicle are (outside to inside layers):
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
There are 2 types of melanin found in the cortex of the hair:
Eumelanin
Black/brown pigment
A dense concentration will produce very dark hair
A small concentration will produce light (blonde) hair
Pheomelanin
Red/yellow pigment
A dense concentration will produce red hair
The amount, type, size, and distribution of melanin determines whether hair will be black, brown, red or blonde and all natural shades in between
Down in the hair bulb are pigment-producing cells called melanocytes, which produce small egg-shaped structures called melanosomes
Melanosomes are protein packets that contain pigmented granules called melanin
Melanin eventually becomes incorporated into the keratin protein of the cortex as the hair grows
Melanin develops its color according to its inherent characteristics as the hair grows
Gray hair is the result of:
Melanocyte cells slowing down the production of melanin in the hair-strand, leading to the gradual and eventually complete loss of color
Heredity, which is the primary factor
A mixture of non-pigmented (white) and pigmented hair on the same head
More and more melanocyte cells becoming inactive, resulting in more white hair
Gray hair is found in every field of color, from light gray to medium gray to dark grey
Individuals have different patterns of graying such as:
Front hairline and sideburns first
Top and crown area first
Varying percentages from front to back
Gray color application
Prior to color application, it is important to determine client’s percentage of gray since different color formulas accommodate different percentages of gray
Can be categorized as:
25% gray
More pigmented hair and less non-pigmented hair
Apply color one level lighter than the desired shade
50% gray
Even mixture of pigmented and non-pigmented hair
75% gray
Hair will appear lighter overall
Apply this client’s formula one level darker than the desired level
Identifying natural level and tone
Before performing color service, it’s important to:
Analyze client’s natural hair color
Determine field of color
Use manufacturer swatches to identify the specific level
Names and levels may vary with each manufacturer
Determine whether the tone is warm or cool
Use the color wheel and ask:
What is the predominant tone
Which side of the color wheel would that fall under
Level of hair color can be identified on a scale of 1-10 (or 12), 1 being the darkest and 10/12 being the lightest
Color scale:
Dark
Black
Dark brown
Medium dark brown
Medium brown
Medium
Light brown
Dark blond
Medium blond
Medium light blonde
Light
Light blonde
Very light blonde
Lightest blonde
Palest blond
Identifying artificial hair color
Manufacturers identify and name their artificial hair colors in several ways, such as:
By level and tone, such as 5RV (red-violet)
Field and tone, such as medium red-violet
By tone and name, such as red-violet or mahogany
Tones/base colors
Predominant tone (base color) identifies the warmth, coolness or neutrality of a color
Understanding the base colors helps:
Understand artificial hair colors
Choose the correct level and tone to achieve the desired warm, cool and neutral results
Common base colors:
Ash
Yellow
Blue
Green
Gold
Neutral
Red-orange
Red
Red-violet
Violet
Blue-violet
The intensity of an artificial color can be lessened or neutralized by adding a color that is complementary to its base color into the formula
Or the color could be intensified by adding a concentrate of a primary or secondary color (often referred to as an intensifier)
Color perception:
Five fields of color:
Dark
Medium dark
Medium
Medium light
Light
Tones within each field are:
Warm
Neutral
Cool
Additional considerations that may affect the service
Texture
The degree of coarseness of fineness in the hair fiber
Coarse hair:
Resistant to lightening
May appear to process slightly lighter than intended level when depositing color
Medium hair
Has an average response to color products
Fine hair
Generally less resistant
May appear to process darker when color is deposited
When lightening or removing pigment, a mild lightener is recommended
Porosity
The ability of hair to absorb moisture, liquid and chemicals
Main factor when selecting products, formulating hair color and determining the appropriate application technique and amount of processing time
Degree of porosity is determined by number of cuticle layers and how tightly they overlap
Raised cuticle layer: easier for product to penetrate through the cuticle into the cortex
Factors affecting porosity:
Sun exposure
Alkaline shampoos
Chemical products (hair color, lightener, perm, relaxer, etc.)
Heat
Resistant porosity
Cuticles are smooth. tightly packed and compact; color absorption may take longer or need additional pigment
Average porosity
Cuticle is slightly raised, accepts color products easily
Extreme porosity
Cuticle is lifting or missing, hair may take color too intensely or not be able to hold color causing it to fade quickly
Clients with long hair may exhibit uneven or varied porosity, because the hair ends have been more exposed to environmental elements
Causes include:
Repeated shampooing
Thermal heat
Highlights
Perms
Relaxers
In cases of extreme porosity, a filler may be required to equalize porosity throughout the hair-strand prior to the color service