Kauri Wooden Watches – Notes
Background & Inspiration
- Kauri is the brain-child of Geneva-born watchmaker and cabinetmaker Samuel Gillioz.
- Aimed at breaking the stereotype of wooden watches as “kitschy” or low-end objects.
- Targets collectors who already own pieces from the “big Manufactures” and seek true mechanical originality.
- Early fascination with wood
- Family holidays spent in Fribourg watching an uncle carve raw wood statuettes with only a knife.
- Quote: “It fascinated me.”
- Personal woodworking history
- Has worked with wood for 12 years.
- Bought a 1949 lathe and a 1973 milling machine while still in watchmaking school.
Professional Journey
- Training & Early Career
- Entered Geneva Watchmaking School in 2008.
- Won Richard Mille’s prize for best first-year student at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (2009), receiving his first mechanical watch.
- Joined Vacheron Constantin’s elite department Les Cabinotiers in 2014 – the workshop famous for the “world’s most complicated watch.”
- Key student project
- Integrated an alarm complication into a training watch, catching Vacheron Constantin’s attention before graduation.
- Decision to become independent
- At age 30 (year 2018), felt advancement prospects were limited.
- “Now or never” moment: left stable job, no children, ready for risk.
- First step: sabbatical trip to New Zealand with his partner → discovery of kauri wood.
Encounter with Kauri Wood
- Kauri trees are more than (30000) years old.
- Preserved in acidic swamps, later carbon-dated in the USA before resale.
- Revelation → inspired first Kauri watch model (pre-Covid, 2019 official launch).
Wood Species Employed
- Kauri (namesake of the brand) – fossilized, ancient.
- Brazilian violet wood – extremely dense, striking grain contrasts.
- Macassar ebony – classic luxury hardwood.
- Amaranth (purpleheart) – vivid coloration.
- Briar burl
- Mediterranean origin, ball-shaped growth between root and trunk.
- Dense, stable, “flame” grain; also used by Saint-Claude pipe makers.
- Compressed Swiss walnut
- Sourced from a Zurich start-up; EPFL-developed process heats and compresses the wood to 5× its original thickness for higher density.
- Sustainability & legality
- Every species backed by a CITES certificate (legal, sustainable, traceable).
- Utilises only off-cuts; some clients supply wood from their own gardens → “second life” philosophy.
Crafting Process & Technical Challenges
- Wood’s behavior differs sharply from metal:
- Subject to expansion; requires readjustment after each machining step.
- Case finishing sequence
- 12 distinct operations per facet.
- Total working time per case: 4–6 days.
- Gillioz applies metallurgical knowledge to “tame” wood; perfect balance took 7 years to master.
Movement & Supply Chain Choices
- Goal: high-end horology on a “human scale.”
- Interim solution: external movement
- Chose Soprod (fully Swiss production) while capital is built for in-house calibre.
- Only non-Swiss component = sapphire crystal.
- Future objective: manufacture his own movement to move further up-market and keep more work in-house.
Business Model & Independence
- No outside investors – maintains full creative control and independence.
- Understands staged growth: accepts temporary compromises (outsourced movement) to secure long-term vision.
- Emphasizes hands-on craftsmanship and limited production rather than mass scaling.
Ethical, Philosophical & Practical Implications
- Up-cycling & material storytelling: each watch conveys history (fossilized kauri, backyard tree sentimental value, etc.).
- Blends cabinetmaking artistry with haute horlogerie engineering → challenges preconceived value hierarchies (wood vs. metal).
- Environmental responsibility reinforced by traceability (CITES) and by using off-cuts.
Personal Timeline Snapshot
- 1987 – Born in Geneva, 31 August.
- 2008 – Starts Geneva Watchmaking School.
- 2009 – Wins Richard Mille / GPHG first-year award.
- 2014 – Enters Les Cabinotiers, Vacheron Constantin.
- 2018 – Leaves company; New Zealand trip; kauri discovery.
- 2019 – Official launch of Kauri Watches.
Peripheral Content in Transcript (Pages 5-7)
- Pages list unrelated Le Temps articles (Middle-East conflicts, Top Chef, Swatch production site, Donald Trump, etc.).
- Included to acknowledge transcript completeness; not connected to Kauri story.
- “Most Read” & “Editor’s Choice” sections showcase typical newspaper sidebars, demonstrating media context but no direct relevance.
Key Numbers & Facts (Quick Reference)
- Woodworking experience: 12 years.
- Fossilized kauri age: 30000 + years.
- Case operations: 12 steps, 4–6 days.
- Compression ratio for Swiss walnut: 5×.
- Development time to master wood balance: 7 years.
- Independence launched at age 30 (year 2018).
Connections & Broader Relevance
- Continues Swiss tradition of independent, artisanal watchmaking reminiscent of early cabinotiers.
- Illustrates crossover of watchmaking with other crafts (cabinetmaking, pipe making).
- Demonstrates rising consumer desire for provenance, sustainability, and narrative in luxury goods.