Kauri Wooden Watches – Notes

Background & Inspiration

  • Kauri is the brain-child of Geneva-born watchmaker and cabinetmaker Samuel Gillioz.
    • Aimed at breaking the stereotype of wooden watches as “kitschy” or low-end objects.
    • Targets collectors who already own pieces from the “big Manufactures” and seek true mechanical originality.
  • Early fascination with wood
    • Family holidays spent in Fribourg watching an uncle carve raw wood statuettes with only a knife.
    • Quote: “It fascinated me.”
  • Personal woodworking history
    • Has worked with wood for 1212 years.
    • Bought a 1949 lathe and a 1973 milling machine while still in watchmaking school.

Professional Journey

  • Training & Early Career
    • Entered Geneva Watchmaking School in 20082008.
    • Won Richard Mille’s prize for best first-year student at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (20092009), receiving his first mechanical watch.
    • Joined Vacheron Constantin’s elite department Les Cabinotiers in 20142014 – the workshop famous for the “world’s most complicated watch.”
  • Key student project
    • Integrated an alarm complication into a training watch, catching Vacheron Constantin’s attention before graduation.
  • Decision to become independent
    • At age 3030 (year 20182018), felt advancement prospects were limited.
    • “Now or never” moment: left stable job, no children, ready for risk.
    • First step: sabbatical trip to New Zealand with his partner → discovery of kauri wood.

Encounter with Kauri Wood

  • Kauri trees are more than (30000)(30000) years old.
    • Preserved in acidic swamps, later carbon-dated in the USA before resale.
  • Revelation → inspired first Kauri watch model (pre-Covid, 20192019 official launch).

Wood Species Employed

  • Kauri (namesake of the brand) – fossilized, ancient.
  • Brazilian violet wood – extremely dense, striking grain contrasts.
  • Macassar ebony – classic luxury hardwood.
  • Amaranth (purpleheart) – vivid coloration.
  • Briar burl
    • Mediterranean origin, ball-shaped growth between root and trunk.
    • Dense, stable, “flame” grain; also used by Saint-Claude pipe makers.
  • Compressed Swiss walnut
    • Sourced from a Zurich start-up; EPFL-developed process heats and compresses the wood to 5×5 \times its original thickness for higher density.
  • Sustainability & legality
    • Every species backed by a CITES certificate (legal, sustainable, traceable).
    • Utilises only off-cuts; some clients supply wood from their own gardens → “second life” philosophy.

Crafting Process & Technical Challenges

  • Wood’s behavior differs sharply from metal:
    • Subject to expansion; requires readjustment after each machining step.
  • Case finishing sequence
    • 1212 distinct operations per facet.
    • Total working time per case: 4466 days.
  • Gillioz applies metallurgical knowledge to “tame” wood; perfect balance took 77 years to master.

Movement & Supply Chain Choices

  • Goal: high-end horology on a “human scale.”
  • Interim solution: external movement
    • Chose Soprod (fully Swiss production) while capital is built for in-house calibre.
    • Only non-Swiss component = sapphire crystal.
  • Future objective: manufacture his own movement to move further up-market and keep more work in-house.

Business Model & Independence

  • No outside investors – maintains full creative control and independence.
  • Understands staged growth: accepts temporary compromises (outsourced movement) to secure long-term vision.
  • Emphasizes hands-on craftsmanship and limited production rather than mass scaling.

Ethical, Philosophical & Practical Implications

  • Up-cycling & material storytelling: each watch conveys history (fossilized kauri, backyard tree sentimental value, etc.).
  • Blends cabinetmaking artistry with haute horlogerie engineering → challenges preconceived value hierarchies (wood vs. metal).
  • Environmental responsibility reinforced by traceability (CITES) and by using off-cuts.

Personal Timeline Snapshot

  • 19871987 – Born in Geneva, 31 August.
  • 20082008 – Starts Geneva Watchmaking School.
  • 20092009 – Wins Richard Mille / GPHG first-year award.
  • 20142014 – Enters Les Cabinotiers, Vacheron Constantin.
  • 20182018 – Leaves company; New Zealand trip; kauri discovery.
  • 20192019 – Official launch of Kauri Watches.

Peripheral Content in Transcript (Pages 5-7)

  • Pages list unrelated Le Temps articles (Middle-East conflicts, Top Chef, Swatch production site, Donald Trump, etc.).
    • Included to acknowledge transcript completeness; not connected to Kauri story.
  • “Most Read” & “Editor’s Choice” sections showcase typical newspaper sidebars, demonstrating media context but no direct relevance.

Key Numbers & Facts (Quick Reference)

  • Woodworking experience: 1212 years.
  • Fossilized kauri age: 3000030000 + years.
  • Case operations: 1212 steps, 4466 days.
  • Compression ratio for Swiss walnut: 5×5\times.
  • Development time to master wood balance: 77 years.
  • Independence launched at age 3030 (year 20182018).

Connections & Broader Relevance

  • Continues Swiss tradition of independent, artisanal watchmaking reminiscent of early cabinotiers.
  • Illustrates crossover of watchmaking with other crafts (cabinetmaking, pipe making).
  • Demonstrates rising consumer desire for provenance, sustainability, and narrative in luxury goods.