Circadia Aging and Repair: Nighttime Repair Product Analysis

The aging and repair category at Circadia is built upon the understanding that skin does not age uniformly across all individuals. Different types of skin age for different internal and external reasons.
The product line is designed to provide multiple options to address the diverse ways visible signs of aging may manifest in a client's skin.
The foundational products in this category are the Nighttime Repair and the Nighttime Repair Plus, which represent original formulations developed by the founder's grandfather.

The history of Vitamin A in dermatology is rooted in work done in Pennsylvania many years ago, involving pioneers such as Dr. Fulton and Dr. Kligman.
The founder's grandfather was also a pioneer in the utilization of Vitamin A in skincare.
Retinyl Acetate: This is the specific form of Vitamin A utilized in these formulations. It is an ester form of retinol.
Retinol Classification: Retinol is considered the natural form of Vitamin A and is chemically an alcohol. In biochemical nomenclature, substances ending in "-ol" designate the alcohol form (e.g., Retinol, Tocopherol/Vitamin E).
Advantages of Retinyl Acetate: Utilizing the ester form helps increase the overall stability of the Vitamin A in the product formulation and improves the tolerability of the ingredient when applied to the skin surface.
Concentration Levels:
- Nighttime Repair contains a concentration of $0.3\,\%$ Retinyl Acetate.
- Nighttime Repair Plus contains a concentration of $0.5\,\%$ (or $0.50\,\%$ ) Retinyl Acetate.

Proliferative Agent: Vitamin A is a proliferative agent, meaning it stimulates the growth and production of cells.
Basal Layer Reach: The basal layer of the skin extends deep into the anatomy, traveling all the way down underneath the hair follicle and the hair bulb.
Introduction of Vitamin A: It is critical to start with a lower concentration (such as $0.3\,\%$ ) for clients who have never used Vitamin A. High concentrations introduced too quickly can cause several side effects:
- Skin flaking and redness.
- Skin "purging," where underlying issues surface rapidly.
- Possible blemishing.
Acne Applications: While the Nighttime Repair series is specifically focused on aging, Vitamin A is also used for acne. However, due to desquamation (shedding of skin) inside the follicle caused by cell proliferation, acne may initially worsen before it begins to improve.

Matrixyl Synth 6: This is a core ancillary ingredient and a newer iteration within the Matrixyl peptide family.
Collagen Targeting: There are at least $28$ different forms of collagen functioning within the body. Matrixyl Synth 6 specifically stimulates types I, III, and IV, which are recognized for providing structural integrity and buoyancy to the skin surface.
Additional Protein Targets: This peptide also targets two other essential proteins:
- Fibronectin
- Laminin-five
These proteins are vital for securing the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ).

Structure in Young Adults: In younger skin, the junction between the dermis and epidermis features "peaks and valleys" (dermal papillae). This structure provides rigidity and support to the skin surface.
Structure in Mature/Damaged Skin: As skin ages or suffers damage, the line between these two layers begins to flatten out.
Causes of Flattening:
- Slowing of the cell turnover cycle.
- Accumulation of aging processes (e.g., glycation).
- Oxidative stress.
- Ultraviolet (UV) exposure and photodamage.
Consequences of Flattening: The loss of the "peaks and valleys" leads to a sagging, aged appearance due to horizontal movement introduced at the flattened junction.
Synergistic Relationship: Vitamin A and Matrixyl Synth 6 work together effectively. Vitamin A increases overall cell proliferation and helps restore the dermal papillae, while the peptides reinforce the structural proteins.

The new formulations incorporate a trio of ingredients designed to enhance the skin's circadian rhythm and reduce "inflammaging" (inflammation-driven aging):
- Timecode: An ingredient focused on circadian function.
- SynchroLife: This ingredient helps reduce stress specifically to the circadian genes within the skin.
- Tica: This is the trade name for a highly bioavailable form of Asiatic acid or Centella asiatica. It is a botanical ingredient that stimulates structural proteins, specifically collagen and elastin.
These ingredients represent a broader industry shift toward focusing on the enhancement of circadian functions within the skin.

Niacinamide: Included as a powerful anti-inflammatory agent. It also functions as a melanosome transfer inhibitor, which helps adjust pigment irregularities often caused by UV exposure.
Skin Flux: A new addition to the formulation designed to increase hydration capacity. It consists of a collection of ceramides that provide the product with a pleasant texture and help maintain the skin's moisture barrier.

Starting Protocol: A client should begin with the Nighttime Repair ( $0.3\,\%$ Vitamin A) to assess skin response.
Duration: One bottle typically lasts between $8$ and $10$ weeks when used daily.
Transitioning to Plus: If the client showed positive results with no excessive flaking, redness, or blemishing after completing the first bottle, the aesthetician can recommend moving up to Nighttime Repair Plus ( $0.5\,\%$ Vitamin A).
Tolerance Note: While many clients successfully transition to the higher concentration, some may not tolerate the $0.2\,\%$ increase in Vitamin A and should remain at the standard Nighttime Repair level.