fashion merchandise exam 2

Brands and labels

• national/designer brand

• private/label

• retail/store brand

• owned by manufacturer who advertises them nationally

• includes Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger

• sold in other retailers

National/Designer brands

• owned by a retailer and found only in stores

• lower cost to consumers, but comparable quality (10-40 % lower than national brands)

• sold in other retailers

Private Label

• retailer is the exclusive label on most merchandise sold in the store

• rare to carry national/designer brands in these “vertical integration”

retail store brand

• hosiery, T-shirts, denim, lingerie

• sold year round, usually best-selling items

• require continual redesign, updates to coordinate with fashion trends

• higher margin than fashion items, lower product development cost

basic/core items

product development is the teaming of market and ____ _____ with merchandising, design, and techinal process that develop a final item

trend research

used by ____ _______ who develop a product a signature brand, or for retailer who develop private-label branded products for their own store

wholesale manufacturers

created and styled several times a year

product lines

moderate and popular priced apparel

line

expensive line in US/europe

collection

lines are divided into groups of garments, linked by a common thing

color, fabric, or style

each garment is known by :

ski or “number”

designers typically work on ___ lines at a time

three

clothing manufecters produce between _____every year

4-6 lines

• spring 1

• spring II/summer

• fall I/transition

• Fall II

• resort/cruise

• holiday

• '“drops” depending on the brand

seasonal lines

• research trends, colors, fabrics, etc. using fashion forecasters or historical data

• develop the line that maintains the manufacturers brand/image in the marketplace

planning the line

large manufacters

designer-owned firms

small manufactuers

planning the line

product development process

• planning the line

• creating the design concept

• developing the designs

• planning production

• production

• distributing the line

• liasion between the designers, producers, and sellers

• chennels the creativity of the designer and the design staff so the “rights” of merchandising can be successfully created

• researches the target customer

• views the line from the design point of view and be knowledgeable abut production and merchandise

role of merchandiser

indivdual garments are designed and sketched or draped in muslim

creating the design concept

designers evaluate based on: its design on its own

• its design within the line

• price of materials

creating the design concept

• creating looks by sketching using CAD, or draping cloth on a mannequin.model

• consider availability and the cost of materials cutting/sewing the garment, and labor costs

role of the designers

types of designers

• high-fashion “name” designer

• stylist-designers

• freelance artist-designers

• targets fashion conscious customers

• responsible for design, choice of fabric, texture, and color for each design

• some designers work for other fashion houses

• some designers own their own fashion house (or financed by silent partner)

• some designers are publicly owned by corporate investors

high fashion designers

use creative talents to adapt or change successful designs of others

• adapt fabrics and manufacturing to lower the price

• focused on designing within the limits of production capacity and capability

• designs come out at late rise or early culmination stage of fashion cycle

stylist-designers

• sells sketches to manufacters

• may be original designs or adaptations of designs from manufacturers

• is not involved in color, fabric, or manufacturing process

freelance artist-designers

• finished sample garements created

• patternmaker drafts patters

• sews garments

• designs presented to company

• styles get a style number

developing the designs

• sourcing- where the parts of the garments (fabric, thread, linings, buttons, etc.) will be purchased and where the garment will be cut and sewn

• domestic or foreign manufactuers ($$-$)]

• samples presented to buyers at market or in buying offices; manufactuerers may have minimum orders

• designs rejected by buyers dropped from line, popular items go into production ASAP

production

• cutting

• sewing

• finishing the garment

• inspecting the product

production

apparel manufactuers

apparel jobber

apparel contracter

roles of producers

performs all the operations required to produce apparel (from buying fabric to selling/shipping the finished garments)

apparel manufactuers

handles design, planning, purchasing, cutting, selling, but not actual sewing or garments

apparel jobber

sole function is to provide sewing services to the industry (aka outside shop)

apparel contractor

• does not require large investment to set up

• lower capital necessary to set up payroll

• ease of hiring trained workers

• no need to keep one factory busy year round

advantages of contractor system

• sales tags, hang tags, added

• sometimes hangers or packages folding included

• shipped to retailers by truck, rail, or air

distributing the line

• shared responsibility for finished product

• scheduling conflicts with bigger jobs

• uneven quality and inspection practices

• potential for intellectual property breach

disadvantages of contractor system

Before mass manufacturing, most women _______ their own clothes at home

sewed

the first step in moving manufacture of clothes out of home came around ______?

1800

clothes in womens appeal were still ______ _____?

custom made

professional dressmakers made womens clothes for _______ ______?

wealthier women

the mass production of clothing started in ______?

mid-19th century

after the civil war, cloaks and mantles for women were produced:

• made in standard size

• produced in large numbers

by 1900, limited quantities of women’s suits, skirts and blouses were made in _______?

factories

(sew a blouse and skirt together in 1910)-womens ready-to -wear dress was born

shirtwaist

the industry has large companies and smaller _______?

companies

the industry is currently undergoing changes and becoming more ______?

global

the top five apparel companies among the world:

• nike(US)

• inditex(spanish)

• LVMH(france)

• TIX (US)

• H&M(Swedish)

basic categories in womens apparel

• outerwear, dress, blouses, suits, after-five-and evening clothes

• bridal wear, sportswear and separates

(Cont’d) in women’s apparel

• activewear/athleisure, uniforms and aprons

• maternity, innerwear, special needs

formal wear is often called?

“after-five” or special occasion

what category in womens apparel gets the most media coverage?

formal wear

bridal wear designers

• vera wang

• carolina herrera

• reem acra

• badgley mischka

mainstream retailers in bridal wear

J.crew, Ann taylor, and anthropologie

what corporation is the worlds leading maternity apparel retailer?

destination maternity corp.

womens wear is produced in the following size ranges:

• misses

• juniors

• petites

• womens

• plus size

factors contributing to the wholesale price of a garment:

• the quality of materials

• the quality of workmanship

• amount and type of labor required in the production process

• the executive and sales position structure of the organization

• showman rent and business overhead

designer signature

type of major prize zone; the highest price zone

bridge

it bridges the prices between designer and better prices

cost 1/3 to ½ of designer prices

contemporary

new zone, favored by new young designers

uses less expensive fabrics & stores in lower rent places

better (cont’d)

apparel to middle-class market offering fashionable apparel at affordable prices

moderate (cont’d)

nationally advertised makers that still appeal to middle-class consumer (less prestige)

designer signature prize zone examples

Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein

bridge price zone examples

micheal kors, DKNY, Eileen Fisher and Ellen Tracy

contemporary price zone examples

Vivienne Tam and Laundry by shelli segal

better price zone examples

Jones new york, Liz Claiborne and Nautica

moderate price zone examples

Guess and Levi’s

Budget

lowest price zone, known as “promotional” or “mass market”

budget price zone examples

kmart, J.C. Penny

The High End

special prices in very limited quantities at astronomical prices

the high end price zone examples

Oscar De la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Bill Blass

Brands that have multiple price zones

Vera Wang and Gap

Vera Wang is an example of what price zone?

designer Signature

Vera Wang lavender is an example of what price zone?

contemporary

simple vera wang for kohls is an example of what price zone?

moderate

off-price apparel stores put increasing prices on what price zones?

moderate to better

private labels

usually priced in the better price zone but quality is comparable to that of designer signature or bridge apparel

private labels provide retailers with?

control over quality and marketing and provide opportunity to enhance their brand image

most fashion producers sell directly to _______ stores rather than through intermediaries

retail

producers aim their sales and promotion efforts at

• advertising

• publicity

• sales promotion

most retail advertising of women’s fashion apparel carries the name of?

the manufacturer

national advertising campaigns were used since??

1980’s

fashion shows

provide reporters and bloggers with the opportunity to examine the newest designer collections & leading european manufacturers

major regional markets in the US for show rooms

LA, Dallas, Miami, Atlanta & Seattle

other semiannual shows for women’s wear

NYC, Paris, London, Milan, Tokyo, & Hong Kong

trunk shows

present a manufacturers line to a reatiler stores sales staff and its customers

lines representative

sometimes a designer, mount in-house fashion show w/ sample garments

promotional ads

ranges from:

• display ideas, and stock fixtures

• reorder forms and assistance in checking for recording purposes

• educational and sales training assistance for salespersons and customers

• promotional talks by producers representatives

• assistance in giving in store fashion shows

promotional ads (cont’d)

• statement enclosures of other ads to reach customers by mail

• special retail promotions to tie with national advertising campaign for smaller stores

• advertising mats for smaller stores

• cooperative advertising funds from the manufacturer or the fiber association

• webinars and online videos

when did the oldest of the domestic apparel industries start?

late 1700’s

mens clothing was always a signature of?

their station in life

mens apparel; express

power, wealth & glory

mens first RTW clothing

made by tailors in port cities along the Atlantic coast

Rtw is also known as

slop shops

organization and operation of the industry in menswear

1. tailored clothing

2. furnishings

3. outerwear

4. work clothing

5. other

furnishings

dress shirts, neckwear, sweaters, headwear, underwear, suspenders, robes and pajamas

outerwear

raincoats, coats, jackets, active sportswear

‘other’ in classification of menswear

uniforms and miscellaneous

keys players in manufacturing sector in menswear

• levi

• VF corporation

• PVH

key location of manufacturing in menswear

• new york

• new jersey

• pennsylvania

the south is the center for manufacturing mens___?

shirts, underwear, and work clothes